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Roll-Over Valve kits for Proclimb M1100 from Four Stroke Solutions LLC

MTN_VIPER

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Tether has to be off and the key on for the valve to work. If you rolled your sled with the key off and tether pulled the valve would not be closed. I'm not sure what scenario that would happen unintentionally but you can outthink it to fail I guess.

Breather comes from right side so tipping it on the left side usually is pretty safe. If you are upside down on the right side is where it gets messy. The other thing to remember is that once you have the sled back on the track you should always tip it a little to the right to get the oil that is in the hose (across the motor to the valve) time to drain back down. Don't turn key off until you have a little angle for it to run back into motor. I have had guys tell me they still got a fair bit of oil into the turbo and once I explain you have to give it a chance to run back they understand. That hose can be pretty full if it sits in the right spot....which you know is Murphy's Law.

During a 45 min unstuck in a tree well upside down is where the smart module becomes nice, draws less power to keep the valve closed.

Gene brings up a good point about the breather hose. It has an ID of 3/4" and can indeed hold quite a bit of oil!
On the M1100T the hose has a fairly long section where it runs somewhat horizontally as it crosses over from the right side of the sled, to the air filter/cold air intake on the left (clutch) side. Because of the relatively low "slope angle" of this section of hose, it can slow down the oil drain back progress out of the breather hose. Tipping the sled to the right increases the "slope angle" of the breather hose and speeds up the drain back time.
Also one of the benefits of the ROVCM is that it can close the valve faster if there is some oil residue remaining in the valve/hose from a previous roll-over event.

Bill
 
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B
Oct 13, 2012
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I think your product sounds like a good idea, but would there be anything wrong with routing the breather hose out the bottom of the belly pan? And jus plug the hole in the back of the air filter.... Yes, we're still going to loose some oil, but it wont be in the engine compartment at all
 

MTN_VIPER

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I thought that I would post a pic of a future project in progress.
From time to time I will do custom build ROV kits for customers based on their specs/requirements.

Below is a pic of custom standard ROV kit that I completed for customer's Z1 turbo.
Because the Z1 turbo is layed out much differently than a M1100T, it is a combination of M1100T main ROV harness, our Apex shut-off valve and a custom length upper harness.
Once I get feedback from Jeff about fitment/performance, the plan is to make ROV kits avilable for the Z1 turbo as well!

Bill

IMG_1803.jpg
 

Sage Crusher

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I think your product sounds like a good idea, but would there be anything wrong with routing the breather hose out the bottom of the belly pan? And jus plug the hole in the back of the air filter.... Yes, we're still going to loose some oil, but it wont be in the engine compartment at all

Bozer- I like your way of thinking-:light:

Here is a cost effective approach-
What we have done on the apex is run the hose into a plastic jug about the size of the stock air filter. not much if any oil runs out and you still have a happy engine compartment.
Not very often we see where the tether gets pulled to activate the ROV so we had to compromise -and not cost restrictive either.
Might try something like that on a cople of our 2013 T1000's

S/C
 

MTN_VIPER

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Bozer- I like your way of thinking-:light:

Here is a cost effective approach-
What we have done on the apex is run the hose into a plastic jug about the size of the stock air filter. not much if any oil runs out and you still have a happy engine compartment.
Not very often we see where the tether gets pulled to activate the ROV so we had to compromise -and not cost restrictive either.
Might try something like that on a cople of our 2013 T1000's

S/C

Some of the bottle/hose set-ups help somewhat. However I've had customers tell me that they abandoned their bottle set-up and converted to a Roll-Over Valve system.
There are two main concerns with having an 4 stroke engine running while upside down.
Because while the engine is running there is positive air flow exiting the crankcase/tank vent. The positive air flow will actually pump the oil out of the breather! A running upside down engine will pump out a LOT more oil then if the engine is off and draining by gravity.
Additionally the intake port for the oil pump is in the bottom of the oil tank. If the sled is upside down or on it's side at a steep angle while the engine is still running, the exposed oil pump intake port can start drawing air instead of oil, which if allowed to continue could damage the main/rod bearings.

You could of course install a standard tether along with a collection bottle set-up. However the problem is that you would have to make sure that the bottle is large enough to collect all of the oil (no two roll overs are the same, sometimes you could loose a little, others a lot).
Then once the sled was back up right, you would have to remove the bottle and pour the oil back into the tank. Kind of a hassle plus your holding up your riding buddies.

Personally I'm all about hassle free riding! When I'm on the mountain I'm there to ride not wrench. I would much rather just plug a tether back in, tip the sled to the right for a few seconds, fire'er back up and go!

Bill
 
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B
Oct 13, 2012
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Im not knocking this idea at all, its just not always easy to wear a teather in the mtns, it gets wrapped around the handle bars, and doesn't come unplugged, or it freezes up and when it does come unplugged it doesn't activate ect ect....

Besides this engine shuts it self off while upside down....
 

MTN_VIPER

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No prob Bozer, :beer; I hear what your saying about tethers.
It took me awhile to get into the habit of wearing one and even now I have to admit sometimes I will still forget to clip it on.
To keep the cord away from the bars, I've found that if I clip it to the lower part of my jacket it stays away from the bars pretty good and is out of the way while boondocking/climbing.

Its true that if the sled is all the way upside down, the engine will eventually stop running due to the fuel pump pick up being no longer submerged in fuel. This may or may not occur right away and even after the engine has shut down the oil can continue gravity drain out through the breather hose.
The engine can still keep running if the sled is laying on it's side and pump/drain oil out. Because its possible for the engine to continue to run for some time while its on it's side, it is desirable to have a tether in place. In most cases its easier/faster to pull a tether cord then it is to try and reach the kill switch or key.
Each rollover event is different and it depends on the angle the sled is sitting at, which side the sled is laying on, how much fuel is in the tank, etc.

Bill
 
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JustBoostIt

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I'm trying to wrap my head around the fact that a proven safely feature like a tether....which comes in a kit and protects your 6k motor....is being debated over a couple hundred bucks. The kit comes with a tether and you need one anyway. There are a lot of worse places to spend a couple hundred bucks....and we all do it numerous times a sledding season. I lost enough oil on my TApex to have to borrow some from a fellow rider. It happens. Been on 4s six years. It's also G-a-y to empty the catch bottle, oil leaks on turbos is the number one cause of fire. That will wreck your day in a hurry lol.
 

Slednoggin23

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Wow Wow Wow.

I don't understand all the sniveling over something that is relativity cheap and will save your $12K + sled in numerous ways. I have had a tether on my sleds for 25 years for racing and mtn riding and remember only a few times it got caught in the bars. No big deal, just untangle it and go on. They do get iced up from time to time but that is the nature of the beast we have to deal with. Again no big deal get the ice off it and go on. If you don't like tethers don't knock people that do. If they wasn't practical all the wise people that use them now wouldn't don't you think?

I received my ROVCM last night. The service was prompt and the quality is top shelf.:face-icon-small-hap I will be installing it today and that appears to be easy.

Thanks MTN VIPER for great service and a great purpose built product.
 

JBIZ

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Ill share a somewhat embarrassing experience without a ROV. Spring riding first time on the m1100t. The wife tried to climb a hill with an off camber and ended up rolling in hard snow conditions. I rushed up to help her as she finally stopped the sled from rolling. I dug in on a steep side hill and helped her get her sled going, away she went. As I returned to the sled I remember thinking it was going to be difficult to continue ahead out of the sidehill that I had trenched because the snow was sooooo hard and I was not familiar with the sled at all. As I pulled away it high sided on me and started a slow roll, I jumped off the high side and managed to get out of the way. It rolled two or three times and then the handle bars dug into the snow quite deep and it pinned the throttle WFO hammering off the rev limiter. The next 10 seconds felt like half an hour. I rushed to the sled. I am now on the downhill side of the sled (quite steep) tryin to hold it from Rollin on top of me and frantically digging for the kill switch in what felt like concrete. All I could hear was rev limiter and a 162 inch track spinning 125 mph 6 inches from my face. After the kill switch was finally pushed all that was left was a lot of oil and a puff of white smoke. I had to tow my sled home and it ruined my day. Not to mention quite a bit of work to get it going again. There was oil from ashhole to breakfast. Moral of the story, I now have a tether.
 

MTN_VIPER

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Wow JBIZ, its a good thing that you didn't get hurt.

Oddly enough its a similar story to how I got started on the roll-over valve project.
A buddy had just bought a new four stroke Phazer when they first came out. We were on a ride in Idaho and during a side hill, he got bucked off and sled rolled on top of him. Snow was also fairly firm that day and his knee got pinned under the handle bars, pinning the flipper to wide open throttle.
By the time he managed to reach the kill switch and shut the sled down, it had pumped out about 2 quarts of oil and there was oil everywhere. We ended up draining small amounts of oil from the other four stroke sleds in the group and adding it to my buddy's sled. Fortunately there were several other four stroke sleds on the ride, so we were able to get the oil light to go out and continue riding.

Bill
 
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JBIZ

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Well in my case there was so much oil on top of the pistons it took me several times of removing the plugs and turning the engine over watching the oil spew out the plug holes. No chance of getting it running out on the hill. The air filter was also completely saturated with oil an my belt and clutches were covered. Not to mention even if I had got it running I had no spare oil. It was my first experience with a four stroke and definately not a good one. Looking forward to a better time this year with my ROV. Honestly the fact that they sell them without one is astounding. Just the use you get out of one when rolling your sled out of its trench when stuck is 10 fold. If you don't have one its probably the first thing I would do.
 

MTN_VIPER

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Guys,

Due to high demand (Thank you everyone!:), the ROVCM control modules are on back order until after the first week of December. I'm waiting for the electronics manufacturer that custom builds our circuit boards. Once I have the electronic boards, we will be able to assemble the cases and down load the programming.
The standard ROV kit will still be avilable and I make the wiring harness the same for both versions. This allows the standard kits to be plug/play upgradable, once I have the ROVCMs back in stock again!

Thank You
Bill
 

MTN_VIPER

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The ROVCM control modules are back in stock!:bounce: http://fourstrokesolutionsllc.webs.com/highperformancerovcm.htm

Some features of the ROVCM

A) Pulse width voltage output increases the shut-off valve closing power by approx 140%, for a quicker response time in extreme cold and mountain riding conditions.

B) Pulse width voltage output lowers the valve solenoid coil operating temperatures for a long shut-off valve life.

C) A micro-controller inside the ROVCM, monitors the snowmobile battery voltage while the Roll-Over Valve is on. If the snowmobile battery voltage drops to low, the ROVCM will go in to auto-shut down mode to help prevent discharging/damaging the battery due to leaving the Roll-Over Valve on for too long by mistake.

D) Reduced shut-off valve cleaning/maintenance intervals. The stronger closing power that the ROVCM provides, allows the shut-off valve to be more resistant to oil sludge build up.

E) The ROVCM has a plug and play connector, this allows standard Roll-Over Valve kits to be upgradeable to a premium version. If you already own a 2011-2012 and latter standard Four Stroke Solutions LLC Roll-Over Valve Kit and would like to upgrade to full electronic (ROVCM) control. Simply purchase the ROVCM separately, install the ROVCM module and plug the connector in to your existing Four Stroke Solutions LLC standard roll-over valve wiring harness!

F) Ideal for mountain riding conditions when frequent use of the Roll-Over Valve is expected!


Bill

IMG_1811.jpg
 
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Jan 8, 2008
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Something MTN VIPER mentions in one of his posts but isn't in the directions, is that if you have a stock tether, you must be sure to plug the harness back to it back together after removing stock tether.
 

MTN_VIPER

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Something MTN VIPER mentions in one of his posts but isn't in the directions, is that if you have a stock tether, you must be sure to plug the harness back to it back together after removing stock tether.

Good point BDF#900, the existing tether is a normally closed tether switch. Which means the circuit needs to be "closed" after the existing tether switch is removed.
This can be done one of two ways,
Plug the wiring terminals back to stock at the sleds harness connector as BDF#900 mentioned.
Or cut the two wires routed to the existing tether switch and connect the wire ends together using a butt connector (heat shrink/seal type prefered).

The instructions have now been updated to include this information:thumb:

Bill
 
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