Just bought 97 AC Powder Extreme 600 triple

K

KKRRSS

Free Member

Dec 31, 2012

70

4

8

Burley, Idaho

• Jan 19, 2013

• #1

Very excited, just got a nice used sled.
less than 2000 miles.
BIG step up from my 85 polaris SS 440 fan cooled.
I am sure I will have questions.
KRS

 

R

RCR3

Well-known member

Nov 14, 2009

572

159

43

Lava Hot Springs, ID

• Jan 19, 2013

• #2

Good runners strong but heavy! You will have plenty of power to lengthen the track to a 151!

 

A

AzCats

Free Member

Apr 30, 2008

50

10

8

Phoenix, Arizona

• Jan 19, 2013

• #3

Powder EXT

Nice snowmobile, gas hog. I don't ride mine much but seem to remember
around 85 miles riding on a tank. Hope to take it out this year.

 

K

KKRRSS

Free Member

Dec 31, 2012

70

4

8

Burley, Idaho

• Jan 20, 2013

• #4

First ride report:
Cold morning, no start. Pulled plugs, dry. I think the choke may not be working right.
Put teaspoon of gas in each plug hole. Cant find a way to get a shot of starting fluid in the carbs.
Fired up on second pull.
Grup heaters work awesome, had to shut them off periodically.
Pulls really hard compared to older 440 that I ride.
speedo doesnt work.
Top rpms seem to be 7500, sounds good at top speed.
takes a bit to get on plane, must be the weight mentioned above. And I am 6'7" tall and 300 lbs.
Hard to pull start in morn, feels like I am churning through thick oil. Easy to start when warm.
Fuel tank must be huge. I pit in 3 gallons and it said 1/4 full.
The 440 can't keep up, not even close.
Very happy so far. Eager to learn more and take care of this sled.

 

A

AzCats

Free Member

Apr 30, 2008

50

10

8

Phoenix, Arizona

• Jan 20, 2013

• #5

Choke

When set up, these start pretty easy. They do pull over hard but mine starts right up after a couple slow pulls. All three plugs on these fire at the same time, 3 times per revolution. Because of this, sometimes in real cold weather, the fuel in a cylinder lights before it should and the rope yanks back at your wrist. The carburetors on this don't have a choke. It uses a fuel enrichment circuit. With the "choke" off, grasp each cable at the carburetor and check for end play. There should be about 1/32 inch. Anything excessive will keep the plungers from opening enough and result in difficult starting. No end play at all allows fuel to bleed in at all times and it will run rich. I never had to use starting fluid or put fuel in the spark plug hole. As for RPM, it should run higher than that, around 8200. It could be many things. Maybe your tach is off or clutching incorrect.

 

Idcatman3

MODERATOR: Premium Member

Staff member

Nov 26, 2007

2,234

866

113

39

Idaho Falls, Idaho

• Jan 20, 2013

• #6

I would also check your driveshaft bearing under the secondary clutch, that going bad often takes out the speedometer drive.

 

K

KKRRSS

Free Member

Dec 31, 2012

70

4

8

Burley, Idaho

• Jan 20, 2013

• #7

AzCats said:

When set up, these start pretty easy. They do pull over hard but mine starts right up after a couple slow pulls. All three plugs on these fire at the same time, 3 times per revolution. Because of this, sometimes in real cold weather, the fuel in a cylinder lights before it should and the rope yanks back at your wrist. The carburetors on this don't have a choke. It uses a fuel enrichment circuit. With the "choke" off, grasp each cable at the carburetor and check for end play. There should be about 1/32 inch. Anything excessive will keep the plungers from opening enough and result in difficult starting. No end play at all allows fuel to bleed in at all times and it will run rich. I never had to use starting fluid or put fuel in the spark plug hole. As for RPM, it should run higher than that, around 8200. It could be many things. Maybe your tach is off or clutching incorrect.

Click to expand...

Will check the choke cable end play. Are these plunger style enrichment plungers that pull up to allow fuel bypass? I should be able to unscrew the pkunger and verify the bypass circuit looks clean.
Waaay more complex than the 85 Polaris SS that I was learning on.

 

K

KKRRSS

Free Member

Dec 31, 2012

70

4

8

Burley, Idaho

• Jan 20, 2013

• #8

Idcatman3 said:

I would also check your driveshaft bearing under the secondary clutch, that going bad often takes out the speedometer drive.

Click to expand...

Grab the secondary and shake it listening for a loose bearing in the shaft?

 

A

AzCats

Free Member

Apr 30, 2008

50

10

8

Phoenix, Arizona

• Jan 20, 2013

• #9

Bearing & Choke

KKRRSS said:

Grab the secondary and shake it listening for a loose bearing in the shaft?

Click to expand...

Idcatman is referring to the left side bearing attached to the track drive shaft and sprocket assembly. Kind of hard to check when the track is under tension, but if your speedometer ever quits working, get home soon as that is a sign the bearing failed. There is a short square speedometer drive piece that sticks in the end of the shaft that shears off if the bearing fails. On the choke, yes it is a plunger that allows raw fuel to go to engine from the carburetor bowl when lifted.

 

K

KKRRSS

Free Member

Dec 31, 2012

70

4

8

Burley, Idaho

• Jan 21, 2013

• #10

Cable end play was easily 1/8 - 3/16 inch. Adjusted to just a wiggle (my best estimate of 32nds). Started in 5 pulls. It was warmer today, but was pleased it started.

Disconnected speedo cable. I can turn it by hand, but the cable by the hood hinge is mangled. Wonder if it got pinched, broke the keyway, and stopped working?

Pulled bearing cover off, bearing looked new. Cleaned up the grease and cover. Reinstalled, greased.

So, i hope the bearing gremlin is chasing one of you all

 

K

KKRRSS

Free Member

Dec 31, 2012

70

4

8

Burley, Idaho

• Jan 26, 2013

• #11

Starts good now i adjusted the end play on choke cable. Today wasnt very cold though.

Went up to the mountains and did some riding today, everything went well.

Need to get more oil for reservoir. AC stuff or anything? What do you all use.

KRS

 

C

CATSLEDMAN1

Well-known member

Premium Member

Nov 27, 2007

2,630

1,207

113

75

Missoula, Montana

• Jan 26, 2013

• #12

600 tripol

If the sled has a couple of miles on it, good mileage and safe engine running requires you have those three carbs in syn. Real simple, pull all three carbs and lay up on top of the heads, turn them so the side towards the engine is face up, zip tie the throttle wide open ( while not running !!!) then adjust each slide with the stem on top of each carb so the side of the slide toward the engine( not cutaway side ) is exactly even with the top of the carb opening.

Now when re installed one or two of the cyln. won't be doing al the work which can lead to siezure / bad fuel mileage/ poor throttle response.

Take it one step farther, while carbs are off the enge, adjust idle on each carb so a 1/16th drill bit or similar size piece of wire will just slip under the carb slide same back side not cutaway side, with the throttle flipper released and closed.

Now when you start the sled if its low, back each idle adjuster off the same amount, or up.

Makes for a crisper triple if you don't have the rack style carbs.

 

K

KKRRSS

Free Member

Dec 31, 2012

70

4

8

Burley, Idaho

• Nov 9, 2013

• #13

Pulled carbs finally.
how to get airbox off so i can use the drillbit technique described above?