no, the plate is in the round housing behind the carbs , it on the shaft that the waterpump
and oil pump runs off of witch is run off of the crank shaft
and oil pump runs off of witch is run off of the crank shaft
670 Top End Kit
- Thread starter WyoUltra
- Start date
if you put it in there is a degree wheel that you need to set it up, i have one if you need to use it, its set up at one of the cylinder set at tdc , if you do a search under skidoo microfiche you can see a breakdown of your engine
Are you talking about if I put in a 501 Rotary plate?
depends on how far your going into on the rebuild, on a sled that is what 15 or 16 yrs old , I would replace the inner seals on the oil pump/ water pump shaft , and that would mean taking out the plate, you can put it at tdc on your choice of cylinders and lightly and i mean lightly scribe around the plate on the intake for your reinstall marks back to stock
The sled had the oiler removed and is currently premixed, will reinstalling one be a problem?
no, no problem , but I would change those seals
I'm assuming I will have to purchase them straight from Skidoo?
the kits that I've been buying at Hi-performance with the crank seals came with them, if you call them they will tell you what comes in the kit
Well, I need your guy's help on this. I tore it all apart and it doesn't look good at all. I bought this sled for $200, and my question is whether or not I should part it out, or if it's ok to rebuild.
This is the PTO side^^^
MAG side
Minor pitting on MAG side
A peek inside the PTO side of the case
PTO piston
PTO Piston
MAG Piston
MAG Piston
MAG Cylinder
PTO Cylinder
So when I drained the case, the fluid had a grit to it, it looked muddy/rusty as well. I understand I'll probably need a head, as well as bore out the cylinders, but my worry is the crank. Is it toast, or soon to be? It won't turn over easily if I grab the connecting rods, but it is a lot easier to turn over when I grab the clutch.
This is the PTO side^^^
MAG side
Minor pitting on MAG side
A peek inside the PTO side of the case
PTO piston
PTO Piston
MAG Piston
MAG Piston
MAG Cylinder
PTO Cylinder
So when I drained the case, the fluid had a grit to it, it looked muddy/rusty as well. I understand I'll probably need a head, as well as bore out the cylinders, but my worry is the crank. Is it toast, or soon to be? It won't turn over easily if I grab the connecting rods, but it is a lot easier to turn over when I grab the clutch.
rebuilt crank, are not to bad in price, depends on how good of shape the rest of sled is,someone been in that sled before as some one used sealer on the head ,instead of buying new seals
So even If I flushed the case, the crank's no good?
I myself would split the case and do a real good clean up on the crank put a little oil in the crank bearings and hand rotate them and see if they feel rough if they feel smooth, Id go for it, But why spend the money on the top end unless the bottom end is good??
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