Boost It fuels my RG Twisted Turbo

rusty rider said:

The boost it box is more exact on fueling than the attitude, I had no issues after really long pulls seeing any lean af #'s on mine. It just flat out runs very well. It exceeded my expectations of how I thought it would run before I installed it.

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Ok, so

rider said:

The boost it box is more exact on fueling than the attitude

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Explain this more, because I am still confused if the boost it box again is ONLY adjusting boost fuel how does it add fuel to the stock fuel map for the lean condition when you back out of the fuel after a pull?

Or how do you adjust fuel for the standard lean spot just prior to power valves opening?

To be real honest I am about done reading my AF guage unless it is under boost. All the other times it is just all over the place and I am on the stock fuel map so I shouldn't even worry about it.

Thunder

Boost it runs by rpm not boost so you can set your amount of fuel by what rpm you want it there. I have my box set to start adding some fuel before the turbo comes on you can set it to ad fuel after the turbo is already building boost if you wanted. So for the power valve lean spot i;m sure you would add some fuel in that rpm range before it starts to open.I'm new to this as well but its getting clearer all the time.

The boost it has the feature to control the fuel even off boost.. It has a Min rpm number that is adjustable so you can add fuel as low as 3000 rpms.. It cannot pull fuel from the stock map, so if your rich in certain areas you may have to lower your fuel pressure untill that area is cleaned up and add fuel to the other area to accomidate for lower fuel pressure. For example, 48 is 5100 rpms and 55 4400 rmps.. the lower min rpm numer the higher the rpm the boost it comes in. Boost it has a trim setting every 250 rpms starting at 3000 up to 12000 something. Keep in mind that the trim rpm populates 125 rpms before and 125 after, so make sure you blending your trims as you make changes.. The boost it box has a led light that showes when the injectors or box has come on based on duty percentage you pick.. Most boxes are sent out with 5 % set.. SO the led comes on as soon at the injector is at 5%..

The boost it also is hooked to the boost side of your airbox and not to the vaccum side of the throttle bodies.. This will ensure there is enough fuel when the throttle is chopped as many are concerned about. Most people see a a/f of 17-20 when letting off, it common and wont hurt your engine, as the engine has no load on it and doesnt require much fuel in that situation.
it is very difficult to understand there is no set a/f per off boost.. It can change as fast as the load on the motor changes.. SO just make sure you are under 14.5 off boost and above 13.8 and your cruise throttle responce will be AMAZINGLY crisp.. Lower is even down to 13.2 and its gurgly..

Boost it has a main fuel number that controls the entire map.. It also has baro/threshold number that controls all of the trim numbers as well. So if you change your threshold number it will change every thrim number automaticly... and the change is fairly large just changing it from 8-9 or so on.. It is best to tune your sled in one one threshold fnumber or your elevation and make changes per elevation/ air presssure changes using your main fuel number.. You can change each trim number too if you are lean or rich at any rmp after the main fuel number change.. I tune it so its a little rich at the truck and as you ride up in elevation it leans out automaticly and is about perfect for most of your riding day.

Hope this helps some of you..

Jim

Ok Jim i just dont get this part How can you be rich at the truck(lower altitude) and then ride up to a higher altitude and have it be leaner? On a na sled if it is rich at the truck it just get richer at altitude because there is less air. cCould you explain that please Thanks for all your help.

Arctic Thunder said:

Ok, so

Explain this more, because I am still confused if the boost it box again is ONLY adjusting boost fuel how does it add fuel to the stock fuel map for the lean condition when you back out of the fuel after a pull?

Or how do you adjust fuel for the standard lean spot just prior to power valves opening?

To be real honest I am about done reading my AF guage unless it is under boost. All the other times it is just all over the place and I am on the stock fuel map so I shouldn't even worry about it.

Thunder

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Polarisrocks summed it up very well. If you have not played with this box yet it may have sounded a little complicated from polarisrocks post, but its actually very simple. I'm by no means a professional tuner, actually more a novice, and within probably 2 hrs of tuning I had it running so good. And it was more like a couple hrs of playing around on a hill to put a good load on motor, didnt have to stop after every whack on the hill or anything like that. After you get machine running very good at that elevation you just adjust the threshold up and down for going up and down in elevation(this takes literally 5 seconds with it mounted on handle bars) Last I rode from 8k up to 11500k and I think I went from about -9 to -11 in threshold if you are picky on how crisp you want it. If you leave the truck say at -11 threshold at 8k ft it will just be a little rich on bottom but will run great at 11k ft or so. And really this is mostly all you have to do, box will do the rest after rpm trims are good.


After completely closing the throttle after a climb I did see a quick spike in af, I think any machine will do this. I know mine did with the attitude box last year.

Looking to see if there is anybody out there that is getting rid of a boost it box? I liked it so much on my m1 that I need one more for another machine.

looking into a possible m8 build for the summer and want to use boost it to fuel machine.

Thanks.

rusty rider said:

Polarisrocks summed it up very well. If you have not played with this box yet it may have sounded a little complicated from polarisrocks post, but its actually very simple. I'm by no means a professional tuner, actually more a novice, and within probably 2 hrs of tuning I had it running so good. And it was more like a couple hrs of playing around on a hill to put a good load on motor, didnt have to stop after every whack on the hill or anything like that. After you get machine running very good at that elevation you just adjust the threshold up and down for going up and down in elevation(this takes literally 5 seconds with it mounted on handle bars) Last I rode from 8k up to 11500k and I think I went from about -9 to -11 in threshold if you are picky on how crisp you want it. If you leave the truck say at -11 threshold at 8k ft it will just be a little rich on bottom but will run great at 11k ft or so. And really this is mostly all you have to do, box will do the rest after rpm trims are good.


After completely closing the throttle after a climb I did see a quick spike in af, I think any machine will do this. I know mine did with the attitude box last year.

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Don't even have to adjust threshold anymore! Just put a TSS turbo with boost-it on my 12 M8 and they now use a Baro sensor. Seems to be working good so far. One less thing to worry about! Thanks Boost-it!

How is Tss adding a baro sensor? Is this a new thing from neil or is this someone playing around adding stuff of their own?

do u have video of you crashing it?

would like to see that,

Boost it box

I am thinking real hard about trying the Boost it box on my 09 M1000 Twisted Turbo. It really sounds like the way to go. Where do you guys recommend buying it from? How do I know if its the newest model with the baro sensor installed. Also are you guys adding the electronic boost control?


"The controller is 800.00 and if you already have extra injectors then it will plug right on to them. We can add electronic boost control for another 200.00"

Thanks KKHAOS

boost it fueler

I would get it from Eric at the racing station, he is the know with the latest greatest boost it box.