R
Do you recommend removing the foam inside the cvt cover completely? And what about the foam behind the secondary clutch blocking the air Box?
850 ride report....few issues!!
- Thread starter Thistledoo
- Start date
Do you recommend removing the foam inside the cvt cover completely? And what about the foam behind the secondary clutch blocking the air Box?
I hope to have one soon and will do a full Install and Review on the product.
While this device isn't cheap, considering the cost of belts, it MIGHT be a reasonable investment over time if you like to run LONG and HARD.
I was starting to wonder about belts becoming a issue. After last Saturday with not much snow, so we could not ride very aggressive and still had 180 degrees on the Primary. A 2016 cat was along as well, he had 120 degrees. Those reading were from my FLIR temp gun. Did not think to take a couple pictures from the temp gun, get em off the memory card and have them ready to post up.
"If" the clutch cover/cooler works, Skidoo needs to do a lot more work on temperature. Because "if" it is working those temps are BAD, for a working cooling device.
Just based off my 2 rides on 6-8" of snow the clutch should not be that hot. Hot enough to instantly boil snow. Which is how the TRA was, the Pdrive/cover is supposed to be 70 degrees cooler according to Skidoo.
I think it would be a lot of help if someone with a sled posted videos of the foam that maybe should be removed since its sole purpose is only for sound deadening. I also wouldn't plug any spaces up, what if that space is the hole that evacuates heat?
K
This... Dave, maybe a video on this in the near future please? Or would that sort of "recommendation" video get you in trouble with ski doo?
T
first ride on my 154 3" yesterday in similar snow with no issues. Checked the sled over when I got home and other than typical first ride wear (belt adjustment, track etc.) there was no belt dust. The only issue I have run into is the rear flap when I'm unloading the sled either on snow or at home, the snow flap always ends up under the track at the bottom of the ramp. I was running at 7200 ft. with the RPMs running between 7800-7900. I was very impressed with the sled, just need to get used to no toe holds, I didn't realize how much I use them. Hope you get the issue figured out.
Did you take any foam or felt out of clutch cover and etc. what did you have clickers set at?
sleds without that funky cover seem to work just fine, i dont believe for one second that it keeps belts/clutchs "cooler". Just for sound again. only downfall with ditching it, is it holds the spare belt
You think that is overly optimistic??
I NEVER changed a belt in 5 years on my boosted Nytros.
Damn things just never ate belts...
Toss it in a tunnel bag
P
For the guys coming of the Yamaha's it is a change on how to deal with belts for sure. These belts stretch all day long.
On the first couple rides you will have to adjust the secondary for belt deflection at least twice. After I had 200 miles on mine the adjustment stayed put and I ran the belt for the rest of the season around 1000 miles in total before I replaced it with a new one. But these first 200 miles are critical on them belts. They are super soft and not very forgiving of heat. The pre screens are way to fine and do not allow nearly enough airflow I went to a diamond s hood and the hole temp issue at wide open throttle in deep snow disappeared. Before that I took the pre filter of the upper hole just for some airflow.
Not sure on the new sled just yet not enough snow for a good run.
On the first couple rides you will have to adjust the secondary for belt deflection at least twice. After I had 200 miles on mine the adjustment stayed put and I ran the belt for the rest of the season around 1000 miles in total before I replaced it with a new one. But these first 200 miles are critical on them belts. They are super soft and not very forgiving of heat. The pre screens are way to fine and do not allow nearly enough airflow I went to a diamond s hood and the hole temp issue at wide open throttle in deep snow disappeared. Before that I took the pre filter of the upper hole just for some airflow.
Not sure on the new sled just yet not enough snow for a good run.
if even your money cant get them to run why would you need to change belts....just brands.
I guess depends on how you ride them.
Personally I only get 300-400 before it is worn out. Not exploded but worn out. This was on all my 800 Doos and 800 PROs.
Please somebody pleeeease tell me how a 280hp Yamaha with monster torque will never eat a $60 belt on a 30 year old clutch design and these companies with all the latest tech can't keep a $200 belt on a 130hp snowmobile:face-icon-small-dis
think I put maybe 2 belts on my old Nytro at 17psi
I have never gotten 1500 miles on any of my sleds over the years, anything over 500 and I'm happy.
LOL this is a gooder...I rode MCX nytros for 4 seasons also...and they would grenade when they blew...haven't you ever rode in waist deep snow for days on end?? guess not....:face-icon-small-dis
G
Anyone answer please.
Primary clutching:
What elevations are you riding? What rpm's?
What clicker are you on?
What bolt are you using? short, med, long.
Have you put them on the scale yet and weighed them?
Need info please, anyone?
Primary clutching:
What elevations are you riding? What rpm's?
What clicker are you on?
What bolt are you using? short, med, long.
Have you put them on the scale yet and weighed them?
Need info please, anyone?
It seems that there is a bit of a problem with this new clutch making heat. It's not the only one I've heard of getting hot but I am wondering if they sealed the engine compartment off so completely that it's holding all the heat in. I'll be installing a blowhole on mine when they become available.
