Viper radiator delete

stingray719 · Nov 5, 2014

NM said:
This sled is almost 2 years old. It is a Cat 1100 with a Nytro motor in it. You will notice that is has a rear cooler and it also has running board coolers. IMO this is the proper way to delete the rad.

Actually the "proper" way "could" be defined as running a propylene Glycol diluted with Ethylene Glycol on a water free system with a water removal device attached. Super cooling with smaller radiator/exchanger and can add more compression and a few degrees more timing. But after having done this a decade ago in a race car it is a pain in the azz and I would not do it on a snowmobile for the small gains. Removing the radiator and getting all that hot air out is worth while to me as all it costs me is a pair of ice scratchers.

And adding heat exchanger in the tunnel causes snow and ice buildup that's why Cat dropped it. But you should know that.

When I put my turbo in if the aftermarket radiator relocate is not available I will be adapting an Apex radiator/fan and diverting the hot air to the exhaust side.

Check out the pic below, it is my old Super Modified running at Pikes Peak International Speedway. The radiator for this Chevrolet small block is actually an air conditioning condenser from an old GM car adapted to fit the radiator hoses. Those condensers are about the size of 4 laptop computers stacked up. And yes it cooled that way. Took a little rerouting of flow path but the size of the cooling device is not near as important as ducting and flow.

In the 80's I built a reverse flow system for my race car as the standard way is to flow water to the block and then to the heads. This pre heats the water and is inefficient in a big way. So I routed the water to go to the heads first and cut 2 tenths of a second off my lap times. Sounds suspect? Look up "corvette reverse cooling" they added that in 1992.

That's as much a class on fluid dynamics as I intend to do and am pretty much done with this.

Really make it hard to give free information here.

Hornet · Nov 5, 2014

stingray719 said:
Actually the "proper" way "could" be defined as running a propylene Glycol diluted with Ethylene Glycol on a water free system with a water removal device attached. Super cooling with smaller radiator/exchanger and can add more compression and a few degrees more timing. But after having done this a decade ago in a race car it is a pain in the azz and I would not do it on a snowmobile for the small gains. Removing the radiator and getting all that hot air out is worth while to me as all it costs me is a pair of ice scratchers.

And adding heat exchanger in the tunnel causes snow and ice buildup that's why Cat dropped it. But you should know that.

When I put my turbo in if the aftermarket radiator relocate is not available I will be adapting an Apex radiator/fan and diverting the hot air to the exhaust side.

Check out the pic below, it is my old Super Modified running at Pikes Peak International Speedway. The radiator for this Chevrolet small block is actually an air conditioning condenser from an old GM car adapted to fit the radiator hoses. Those condensers are about the size of 4 laptop computers stacked up. And yes it cooled that way. Took a little rerouting of flow path but the size of the cooling device is not near as important as ducting and flow.

In the 80's I built a reverse flow system for my race car as the standard way is to flow water to the block and then to the heads. This pre heats the water and is inefficient in a big way. So I routed the water to go to the heads first and cut 2 tenths of a second off my lap times. Sounds suspect? Look up "corvette reverse cooling" they added that in 1992.

That's as much a class on fluid dynamics as I intend to do and am pretty much done with this.

Really make it hard to give free information here.

It would be alot easier for you if you were not so abrasive and easily offended.......and offensive. Obviously you are smarter (in some instances) than the average fence post, but your replies get you in trouble with even the admins and moderators of forums. Perhaps these forums are not a suitable way for you to communicate.

BigBobs Backcountry · Nov 6, 2014

stingray719 said:
Actually the "proper" way "could" be defined as running a propylene Glycol diluted with Ethylene Glycol on a water free system with a water removal device attached. Super cooling with smaller radiator/exchanger and can add more compression and a few degrees more timing. But after having done this a decade ago in a race car it is a pain in the azz and I would not do it on a snowmobile for the small gains. Removing the radiator and getting all that hot air out is worth while to me as all it costs me is a pair of ice scratchers.

And adding heat exchanger in the tunnel causes snow and ice buildup that's why Cat dropped it. But you should know that.

When I put my turbo in if the aftermarket radiator relocate is not available I will be adapting an Apex radiator/fan and diverting the hot air to the exhaust side.

Check out the pic below, it is my old Super Modified running at Pikes Peak International Speedway. The radiator for this Chevrolet small block is actually an air conditioning condenser from an old GM car adapted to fit the radiator hoses. Those condensers are about the size of 4 laptop computers stacked up. And yes it cooled that way. Took a little rerouting of flow path but the size of the cooling device is not near as important as ducting and flow.

In the 80's I built a reverse flow system for my race car as the standard way is to flow water to the block and then to the heads. This pre heats the water and is inefficient in a big way. So I routed the water to go to the heads first and cut 2 tenths of a second off my lap times. Sounds suspect? Look up "corvette reverse cooling" they added that in 1992.

That's as much a class on fluid dynamics as I intend to do and am pretty much done with this.

Really make it hard to give free information here.

[/

What would happen to your race cars motor temperature if all of a sudden the "fresh air" supply was drastically depleted ?

Why is there a "big hole" in front of the race car ? Aero Dynamics ? HELLO !!!

stingray719 · Nov 16, 2014

Ok the radiator delete works FOR ME. Note I said for me and kiddies don't try this at home.

Sorry Neil but this does work. I have tested in steep and deep now without scratchers (of course) and on marginal snow on the road using ice scratchers. This testing done on a converted XTX to a 162 Camoplast x3 track MTX. I will not be putting my radiator back until turbo time and then I have a diff idea for that.

I am not asking or even encouraging any of you to delete your radiator and if you do you do at your own risk, my success does not necessarily equate to yours so be warned. The reason for this disclaimer is obvious if you read some posts in this thread...lol.

bholmlate · Nov 16, 2014

your image would have more of an impact to the point you are trying to make if we couldn't see your sled in the picture because it was covered in 3 Ft of snow which is some peoples idea of deep snow.. Also if the picture was not taken in a flat meadow. Now you will have a whole slew of posts saying that you have not tested it in the steep and deep because the image is portraying anything but "steep and deep" just a general observation

Not here to say it "Does work" or "Deosn't Work" You seem to be happy with it so that all that matters

stingray719 · Nov 16, 2014

bholmlate said:
your image would have more of an impact to the point you are trying to make if we couldn't see your sled in the picture because it was covered in 3 Ft of snow which is some peoples idea of deep snow.. Also if the picture was not taken in a flat meadow. Now you will have a whole slew of posts saying that you have not tested it in the steep and deep because the image is portraying anything but "steep and deep" just a general observation

Not here to say it "Does work" or "Deosn't Work" You seem to be happy with it so that all that matters

Yeah the only pic I had was digital and grainy but here goes. This pic is taken while going back down, hard to see how deep the snow was going up I was pushing it over the windshield.

vector boy · Nov 16, 2014

What were you running for temps? Just curious.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mountaintech · Nov 17, 2014

Just enough snow to hide the minefield. Be careful out there.

stingray719 · Nov 17, 2014

vector boy said:
What were you running for temps? Just curious.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This was a deep snow day as an FYI but it read 160 to 170 most of the day. I let it sit and idle for about 5 minutes and it rose to about 176. Last weekend on hard packed road with scratchers down it hovered around 170.

stingray719 · Nov 17, 2014

Mountaintech said:
Just enough snow to hide the minefield. Be careful out there.

Agreed, we try to only go areas we know are relatively free of rocks early season. I did catch one stump lightly no damage but yeah early season is risky!

roughrider99 · Nov 19, 2014

NM said:
This sled is almost 2 years old. It is a Cat 1100 with a Nytro motor in it. You will notice that is has a rear cooler and it also has running board coolers. IMO this is the proper way to delete the rad.

NM, do you still feel that going this route is not as good as the rad setup? I'm considering deleting mine for 2 reasons

1. When I crush a tree there's no rad to break since it's so close to the nose

2. Distribute the weight a little better

I did rad delete tunnel cooler with heated running boards on the old mans turbo nytro and I was super happy with it no overheat issues, On my viper demo day, deep heavy snow just plugged the rad and iced over and we had overheat issues

stingray719 · Nov 20, 2014

roughrider99 said:
NM, do you still feel that going this route is not as good as the rad setup? I'm considering deleting mine for 2 reasons

1. When I crush a tree there's no rad to break since it's so close to the nose

2. Distribute the weight a little better

I did rad delete tunnel cooler with heated running boards on the old mans turbo nytro and I was super happy with it no overheat issues, On my viper demo day, deep heavy snow just plugged the rad and iced over and we had overheat issues

On the girlfriends Viper I reversed the fan connector so it blows out, no more ice or snow blocking radiator.

BigFish BC · Nov 20, 2014

roughrider99 said:
NM, do you still feel that going this route is not as good as the rad setup? I'm considering deleting mine for 2 reasons

1. When I crush a tree there's no rad to break since it's so close to the nose

2. Distribute the weight a little better

I did rad delete tunnel cooler with heated running boards on the old mans turbo nytro and I was super happy with it no overheat issues, On my viper demo day, deep heavy snow just plugged the rad and iced over and we had overheat issues

i know they like them because there is no snow stuck to tunnel with the stock set up,dont know of any issues they had with stock rad plugging.but i could see it happening in the right conditions.not sure there is a lot of weight to save,but i can see moving it off the nose.boost-it had about 20 mtn viper running last year & they found stock system the best for them.

roughrider99 · Nov 20, 2014

I bought a decent strong bumper from the arctic cart catalog today so hopefully that will do the trick, I would just be more comfortable if that rad wasnt there cause it seems pretty vulnerable to me.

stingray719 · Dec 1, 2014

3 days of riding above freezing here in Colorado. On Saturday it was 51 degrees on Grand Mesa.....very odd. With scratchers down on hard pack went 170 to low 200's on temp and that was the same temp as two other Vipers on the same day riding with me. Couldn't be happier with the radiator delete.

DISCLAIMER: due to varying degrees of skill I advise against you doing this mod and am not responsible for any damage.

turbo800 · Dec 1, 2014

stingray719 said:
3 days of riding above freezing here in Colorado. On Saturday it was 51 degrees on Grand Mesa.....very odd. With scratchers down on hard pack went 170 to low 200's on temp and that was the same temp as two other Vipers on the same day riding with me. Couldn't be happier with the radiator delete.

DISCLAIMER: due to varying degrees of skill I advise against you doing this mod and am not responsible for any damage.

We had basically the same conditions here in Utah this last weekend. I noticed when I stopped, temps would spike within a few seconds of not moving. Right at 200* the fan and idiot light would kick on. With that said, I have no interest in deleting the radiator. On the upside, NO hot start issues at all

Deep Powder Guy · Dec 1, 2014

It's never a good idea to immediately turn off your sled. Doing so can cause heat soak which can in some cases cause starting issues 2S or 4S....Before turning off the sled allow the coolant to cycle for a minute or 2 this will prevent internal over heating.....When you turn off your sled immediately your not allowing the coolant to cycle which can cause internal temps to spike due to temps rising without aid from the cooling cycles.

DPG

stingray719 · Jan 29, 2015

NM said:
Deleting the stock rad is a waste of time and money. There is no way the bulkhead cooler will make up the cooling needed for this motor.

Did anyone consider they didn't use a tunnel cooler because there is just no room for it? Not sure if anyone has looked in the tunnel and seen the header pipe in there? Lol

Had it out last weekend at 40 degrees sun melting the snow and the radiator delete is still cooling fine as long as the scratchers are down.

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