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153 cat skid?

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BOOSTIN-BAYOU

Active member
Mar 26, 2011
166
26
28
layton UT
i am getting ready to swap my 08 153 skid for a 08 153 cat skid i i have seen some post about moving forward and up like 1.75 to 2.00 anybody have the exact measurement for front bolt and then the rear bolts where is it mounted does it move the same amount
 
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trevor_zr600

Member
Jan 8, 2008
267
15
18
im wondering the same thing if anyone has the measurements for a 153 skid to go into a apex but dont want it set back for a 162 if anyone has measurements from top of the tunnel to the front hole and also the center of the driveshaft to the front hole would be awsome i know arm to arm is 31.25 so just front mount locations would be awsome
 
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trinitypowder

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
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I see I'm not the only one looking for info. I find an M8 162 skid that I wanted to throw in my Apex. Who has the skinny:noidea:
 
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trevor_zr600

Member
Jan 8, 2008
267
15
18
i have done the 162 skid in an apex before and its a fair bit more work but definatly the way to go. you have to make new front brackets and add a piece to the rear bracket so you can bolt the skid in ill see if i can grab you the measurements for it
 
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trinitypowder

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
1,848
290
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i have done the 162 skid in an apex before and its a fair bit more work but definatly the way to go. you have to make new front brackets and add a piece to the rear bracket so you can bolt the skid in ill see if i can grab you the measurements for it

Thanks:tea:
 
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TRUEBLUEMAX

Well-known member
Aug 4, 2010
751
280
63
Hooper, Utah
That is my thread over on the TY site and there are a couple of things that I did not make super clear on that. First off the rear upper mount is wider on the cat and does need to be narrowed. The front arm is narrower and does need some spacers to fit in the tunnel on the front. I had to build new brackets on the back of mine to mount it where I wanted it but not on the front. I used 1/4 to make the bracket in the back and used 1/8 to bend up some running board braces. Way stiffer than the stock brackets.

Move the front two inches up and forward and you will be golden. I really like the way it handles on my Nytro.
 

off trail mike

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
May 31, 2011
318
129
43
New Brunswick, Canada
X2 Truebluemax.

And yes, you need 1/4" spacers on each side up front and you have to shorten the rear AC cross shaft which is pretty easy. The amount depends on what you use for drop brackets (aluminum or steel, thick or thin)

For positioning, I used TBM's measurements as a guideline to get me in the park. The key here is make sure you are at least 1.75 higher (Y dimension) than stock because the approach angle is so low on the AC rails. You need to draw a straight line between the centerline of the front suspension shaft bolt hole (in the tunnel) and the centerline of the drive sprocket. That's what all of my X-Y measurements are based on.

In terms of moving the front suspension axle forward, 2 inches will work and give you lots of space to adjust your track tension but be careful with this. If you go too far forward your rail tips will be pushing into your track. I am very tight on this measure at @ 1-1/4". CAD says I can do it, but I know I am very tight. So somewhere between the 2" and 1-1/4" should work.

Also, my measures assume 2 things:
1) you are using the stock AC 153 rails that have a 21 degree tip up (that's what mine measured, not 18 as advertized in AC literature, but its almost the same as timbersled (22 deg) with iceage rails and the new design Yamaha (22 deg). My measures will work with the iceage rails too.
2) you are running the stock yami 7 tooth, 3" pitch drivers, or any aftermarket with the same 7 x 3 spec. A bigger driver will change the spec.

In terms of the back drop brackets, the key is the distance between front and back axles needs to be 31.25". Mine are up 2.00" (Y) and ahead 1.55" (X), and this is tied directly to how much I moved my front.

Finally...Two other considerations
1. Anti-Stab kit, Anti-Stab kit, Anti-Stab kit. You don't... you'll be short a track sooner or later....usually sooner.
2. this setup moves your track a bit higher in the tunnel, approximately 1-1/8" so if you are running an undertunnel, make sure you have the necessary clearance to protect that investment.

I am right in the process of doing this install, having just got my tunnel back from the painters. Hoping to finish it in the next week or so. I'll post pictures once finished.

OTM
 
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TRUEBLUEMAX

Well-known member
Aug 4, 2010
751
280
63
Hooper, Utah
Sure thing Travis. Just PM me and let me know when you would like to stop by. Mine is all back together now and everything works pretty well so just let me know.
 
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