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Mod sled build questions

K
Oct 17, 2015
8
1
3
I'm new to this whole thing but I'm looking at building a sled.

My plan is to start small, at least power-wise and try to build up a light weight trail/boondocking sled for where I live in North-Eastern Alberta.

A big part of this decision is the sled I have now, an '07 Phazer Mountain Lite. It's okay but _heavy_ and I'd like something a bit more playfull. It tops out at ~125 km/h on groomed trails, around 100 off trail if the snow isn't too deep. The speed is more than enough for me, I don't need anything faster.

It's been in the planning stage for a while and I decided on an air-cooled ~500cc motor with a 16x136 track to give enough area for flotation but a shorter track for trail handling.

I figured geared to top out around 100-120 km/h (~60-75 mph) the 50 or so hp from a fan-cooled motor should give decent acceleration (I don't mind the lower top speed and gearing it down should make it accelerate well which should make it feel fast for the speed most riding will be at).

I finally committed to buying the first piece (actually first and second, I bought two Mikuni power-jet kits for the carbs) of the build last week so the project is officially started - A Polaris 440 fan motor complete with carbs, y-pipe, recoil starter, fuel pump, and primary clutch. I got it for $300 Canadian, supposedly it runs. I'm going to open it up and look it over, rebuild the carbs, fuel pump, etc. I'm thinking I'll weld up a pipe for it.

Now that the build has officially begun and I have some fact checking to do and questions to ask.

1 - I've been doing research and it looks to me like 2024 0.05" sheet aluminum is appropriate for the tunnel?

2: Clutch spacing - is there anything I should be aware of as far as setting up the clutches? Obviously putting them 5 feet apart or something equally ridiculous is going to make it impossible to get a belt that fits but is there some magic number I should be aiming for in terms of separation between the two clutches?

3: CVT belt part 2 - Once I get the clutches installed and aligned how do I choose a belt that fits?

4: Rivets - Solid aviation rivets, not cheap hardware store rivets are what i want I'm guessing?
 
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joshkoltes

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 16, 2007
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ranchester, wy - nashua, mn
Seems that most tunnel builders use around .090 6000 or 5000 series aluminum. The 2000 series might be too rigid and crack on ya

The engine you use for this might be a major factor on the weight your trying to achieve. For instance, I have an old liquid 440 cc cat engine that weighs over twice as much as my 2011 800 Polaris engine. Not saying you should use an 800 but just explaining the newer smaller engine the lighter it'll be. Which in turn will free you up to beef up other areas while still keeping the weight down

You will need to find the stock tuned pipe for this engine. Cutting it to fit isn't as simple as it sounds. One needs to take into account all the blade widths you cut out need to be added back in. Or it will be out of tune. not that hard just be cautious if your wire welding not to get ANY wires sticking through that could eventually break off and suck back into the cylinder

Are you going to do a arms or trailing arms

As the manufacturers are doing you should also do, get the clutches as close as possible, I can't remember the new distance exactly but the old edges genII and wedge is12" I beleive. I guess if you went with that you could still buy cheap belts
Being you have a Polaris engine you will have a p85 clutch and find the matching secondary components from that vintage on here http://www.polarispartshouse.com/oemparts/c/polaris_snowmobile/parts
For the belt length just kind of copy a distance of a pre existing polaris sled and use that belt.
That's where I'd start anyhow. Theres a long road before you get to this point

I get my favorite rivets from cr raceing, he dosnt list them but sells them. They are a pop rivet but a high quality. I really don't like the aviation rivets to each their own though
 
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K
Oct 17, 2015
8
1
3
Agreed on the long road before getting to setting up the clutches, that said it's the kind of thing worth planning for in advance to avoid finding out later I don't have room for something.

I'm thinking of going with a-arms for the front suspension. That's the hardest part I think, everything else is pretty much pre-designed for you and ready to bolt on. designing the front of the chassis to mount the a-arms is more difficult.
 
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