What was your experience with the Stinger Lithium battery?
The Ultimate 300 Build Thread - 2014
- Thread starter mtn-doo
- Start date
M
It worked well. The typical complaints about "cold starting with lithium" was not seen. The owner might jump in here and report how it worked later in the season? It worked well for me. However, I would recommend the YTZ7S. No cold issues and a super stout battery.
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One thing i have noticed over the years with the YTZ7S batts in the 300 is i never have starter issues like all my friends do with the stock 4 or 5 battery. Not sure if its coincidence or not. They crank faster and don't seem to put as much strain on the starter. Take it for what its worth.
M
Good point. I think starter issues can be linked to weak batteries. A stout battery doesn't seem to result in starter issues. Great point Chris, thanks.
M
Busy, busy in the shop. A herd of Snowbikes have shown up. A CR500, a KX500 and a herd of 300's. It's that time of year! Snow on the mountains this morning! 
I have a 2013 with 300 hours on it currently and use the starter all the time... it is starting to grind currently... I did do the wet mod though and open it up every 100 hours to clean.... I always kickstart ar the beginning. The lithium battery for my summer riding really helped.
What year is your 300 ? How many hours on that 300. Curious
M
Parts are showing up. The cylinder work is super nice. Nothing crazy, just a clean up and the exhaust side opened up a little by Eric Gorr of Forward Motion.
M
The Ceramic work by SLP is super nice. The polished silver color looks just like a sled pipe from SLP. The corrosion protection as well as a little thermo protection will be a nice plus.
Be sure to weld in the bung prior to sending it off for Ceramic coating. The bung and welds are all coated and look OEM. No weathered welds from heat and moisture. The location of the "fast response probe" is placed at 4" from the pistin skirt. That is about 1/2" less than usual. The flame tip will be a little shorter in this pipe due to the quick 90 degree turn. The depth of the probe is also important. You want it as close to center as you can get it. If you look at the tip inside the pipe, then look left down the tube of the pipe and weld line, you will have an aid in placing the depth correctly. The third thing to remember with probe placement is the "loop" on the tip needs to be in line with the exhaust flow, not perpendicular, for an accurate reading. The elbow of the upper portion of the probe will be 90 degrees from the center-line of the pipe.
This is not mandatory but I rely on mine heavily when tuning and testing. Always confirm your temps with a plug inspection. A set my alarm at 1270F and shoot for a sustained , long, WOT temp of 1190F to 1230F. Confirmation in your plug will be a medium "tan" to "caramel" color. Chocolate brown and darker is too cold/lean. Anything lighter than "tan" is getting too hot/lean.
Be sure to weld in the bung prior to sending it off for Ceramic coating. The bung and welds are all coated and look OEM. No weathered welds from heat and moisture. The location of the "fast response probe" is placed at 4" from the pistin skirt. That is about 1/2" less than usual. The flame tip will be a little shorter in this pipe due to the quick 90 degree turn. The depth of the probe is also important. You want it as close to center as you can get it. If you look at the tip inside the pipe, then look left down the tube of the pipe and weld line, you will have an aid in placing the depth correctly. The third thing to remember with probe placement is the "loop" on the tip needs to be in line with the exhaust flow, not perpendicular, for an accurate reading. The elbow of the upper portion of the probe will be 90 degrees from the center-line of the pipe.
This is not mandatory but I rely on mine heavily when tuning and testing. Always confirm your temps with a plug inspection. A set my alarm at 1270F and shoot for a sustained , long, WOT temp of 1190F to 1230F. Confirmation in your plug will be a medium "tan" to "caramel" color. Chocolate brown and darker is too cold/lean. Anything lighter than "tan" is getting too hot/lean.
Do you think with the smart carb this is something that is needed if it is in the budget?
T
M
No, but super nice to have. Remember to ALWAYS take this stuff off and shelve it in your shop. You will be glad you did down the road. Some of these things are good to have on hand. You will use them and get a lot of good from in years to come. I have 2 stroke AFR, 4 stroke AFR and a quick response EGT at arms length at all times. I also have a pipe with a probe I swap from bike to bike to dial in tuning. All with tuning aid's universal for everything.
Ah, ha ha....got my parts, man Slavens is fast, ordered on Tues, got them Wed, I'm only 50miles away but damn thats fast. I have to do this build in stages as the cost of the parts is staggering! I have to recover/forget how much the last bill was before I can order more....and I have to order more, this IS the ULTIMATE 300 build and I'm following Randy's lead. Thanks Randy for all this info! No need to reinvent the wheel.
The Inquisition, let's begin...
EGT- my KOSO rapid just showed up, months before I can use it, 1250 WOT is where you wanna be, so are you just adjusting fuel/air ratio, richer cooler, leaner hotter basically? Im guessing that since EGT is an engine limitation, that its the the best you can get and does not change with altitude
Rekluse Clutch- can you tell me again the benefits of a $900 autoclutch on a snowbike, I saw before where you said 'you don't need it but', can you give some instances of the benefits. I may have answered my own question this week when i came upon a nasty rock section and in trying to clutch and push the bike up over the rock an autoclutch woulda been the perfect tool.
Smartcarb- in Colorado we ride from 9000-12000, so jetting should cover that, but I'd read were you were pretty happy with the smartcarb adjusting for the accumulation of frost, ice, something on the air cleaner throughout the day.
Shorai- Lithium 210cca we'll see how it does in zero degree wx.
This should be fun!
The Inquisition, let's begin...
EGT- my KOSO rapid just showed up, months before I can use it, 1250 WOT is where you wanna be, so are you just adjusting fuel/air ratio, richer cooler, leaner hotter basically? Im guessing that since EGT is an engine limitation, that its the the best you can get and does not change with altitude
Rekluse Clutch- can you tell me again the benefits of a $900 autoclutch on a snowbike, I saw before where you said 'you don't need it but', can you give some instances of the benefits. I may have answered my own question this week when i came upon a nasty rock section and in trying to clutch and push the bike up over the rock an autoclutch woulda been the perfect tool.
Smartcarb- in Colorado we ride from 9000-12000, so jetting should cover that, but I'd read were you were pretty happy with the smartcarb adjusting for the accumulation of frost, ice, something on the air cleaner throughout the day.
Shorai- Lithium 210cca we'll see how it does in zero degree wx.
This should be fun!
S
Isn't the probe placement 6" from piston skirt
Because 4" would be in front of spring hoops? Thanks
M
4 1/2" is the flame tip in most applications. The tip is shortened slightly due to the rapid turn in the pipe. In a straight pipe it stretches out to nearly 6".
4 1/2"places the bung about the end of the loops. Just past them.
M
The EGT will show you where you are. Yes, 1250 is excellent. There is no WOT adjustment for rich/lean. The adjuster knob on top is for idle mixture to 1/3 throttle. Think of it as your pilot circuit and the base of your needle. The WOT adjustment is the fuel rod. They come spot on for most uses. You can simply replace your rod for richer or leaner at WOT. Remember the Billet S.C is super tight in tolerances and can be a little lean for the first few hours. The rod and seat need some "polishing". Work your throttle from idle to WOT aggressively for a couple rides. Only hold WOT for 10 to 15 seconds. It will brake in and richen up. You will know because you will have to lean the adjuster a couple clicks. Then make some WOT pulls and see where you are.
The Rekluse is not mandatory. I installed one for the benefit of everyone trying out a bike this winter. It will be used and shown a bunch this year on demo's.
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M
I had a nice visit with a race tech at Boysen earlier about this project. He told me about the new Pro Series reeds in the new 2014 KTM's as well as a "non production" custom block and reed assembly for their race teams. There is not a part number and they are not available for purchase.... yet. Well, Santa came early and they sent me one for this project. It is super nice. It is similar to their "Rad-Valve" assembly. The ports are polished , 4 chambers. The angles are not uniform or parallel like most blocks. They are not all the same size either. They taper the lower ports for increased velocity at low throttle positions and expand the uppers for WOT volume. It is way more open than the conventional plastic block. It looks like a big 4 barrel carb. Their result was an increase in throttle response, more HP earlier, and a boost on top at WOT. I am excited to give these a try. With all other components working together, this should be a runner!
M
Don't mean to bounce around with pieces coming together, but while I wait for some engine and other goodies I will move along with other stuff. The exhaust spring needs to be chainged. I will be putting in the red spring, the lightest one, at 2 1/2 turns in from fully backed out. That will allow the engine to get "on the pipe" sooner and with a big hit. Perfect for snow.
M
The next quick swap is the CDI box. There are several to choose from. The 2007 - 2012 250 SX Box is the most aggressive and to date produces the most HP. The second choice would be the 2013/2014 XC box. They are very good with a ton of aggressive hit early and enough over-rev to hold it. They are a good ignition map. The instalation is quick and easy. Two 6mm screws and a cannon plug in front of your seat, back of the gas tank.
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