B&M Fab Skinny Board install. #1 Mod for the Pro Climb
- Thread starter WyoBoy1000
- Start date
I didn't even look at the lower panel by the a-arm mount. I will look that over when I get home.
The more I think about it, I could see the side panels fitting better if you do not push-in that upper part of the lower panel like we did. If you drilled that top toe loop hole closer to the stock location. That might be why the hole openned up by the a-arm mount, essentially folding that lower panel versus pushing the lower and upper portions in 'equally'.
I think it will come down to individual preference and how you want the fitment of all the plastic.
The more I think about it, I could see the side panels fitting better if you do not push-in that upper part of the lower panel like we did. If you drilled that top toe loop hole closer to the stock location. That might be why the hole openned up by the a-arm mount, essentially folding that lower panel versus pushing the lower and upper portions in 'equally'.
I think it will come down to individual preference and how you want the fitment of all the plastic.
My plastics and side panel fit pretty good. Clutch side requires two 1/2 turn screws, but it works. One on side behind side panel opening vent and one on back above board hoop. I used the bigger screws like the 15/16 use. There is a little bit of plastic on the belly pan I trimmed down by the lower arm mount so it pushes in better and doesnt hit the chassis metal. I heated and warped the plastic a bit on the can side to connect the torx screw to the board hoop better. This helped a lot on that side and I didnt even need to use 1/2 turn screw. Would prob be required if it would go in further like the clutch side. Oil tank keeps it from going in as far.
As for toe kicks, I would leave the outer holes and let the customer put the other hole where they want.
If a guy wants better fitment you could put the very top hole for the plastic out further and just suck in the bottom I would think, I just like to get as much as I can. When you consider you are gaining about 2" each side they fit pretty dang good with some half turn screws.
As for the a arm mount if you stick a screw driver in and pop the plastic over it, heat it slightly it goes on pretty good, then take some rvt silicone and seal it up (I haven't needed it)
Mine are way in, in comparison and it works, doesn't fit if you look close but no issues and no one notices unless they really look. But I'll take beating an axys day over looks
If a guy wants better fitment you could put the very top hole for the plastic out further and just suck in the bottom I would think, I just like to get as much as I can. When you consider you are gaining about 2" each side they fit pretty dang good with some half turn screws.
As for the a arm mount if you stick a screw driver in and pop the plastic over it, heat it slightly it goes on pretty good, then take some rvt silicone and seal it up (I haven't needed it)
Mine are way in, in comparison and it works, doesn't fit if you look close but no issues and no one notices unless they really look. But I'll take beating an axys day over looks
Makes sense, for what we are moving the plastics around they do still fit good. I'm just a little OCD so I want it perfect. The hole in the top of the footwell hoop we don't put in, the standard board doesn't get it either....just too tough to add a drilling guide to the fixtures without making removal impossible.
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Yeah, I'm saying just put the outer toe kick hole in only, let us drill the inner hole and the top plastic hole, that way we decide where we want it.
I'm extremely picky with everything I do, but when I buy a mountain sled it is for one purpose. Go where no one had gone before. Do that and you look good no matter what your riding, or no matter what your riding looks good. Lol
Ditto with the others - I used the outer hole on the hoop for the toe kick and then drilled out a new hole to match the existing inner hole in the toe kick. I was going to try to use the existing hole but realized the u-nut would hit the plastic on coming over the top of the hoop since the u-nut would have to slide in from the top. I didn't want to mess with cutting a new slot to get u-turn screw to slide in from the bottom. I think if you send them with outer hole only, that is fine.
I got my installed over the weekend. Took more time than I tought, but I did take my time. Wyo...thanks for posting videos, very helpful! Fit and Finish on the boards is excellent, great job BM Fab!
For those wondering if these work with a skid plate the answer is yes! I put my on using the stock holes in the middle of the sled, then marked along the outer edge where to cut. I cut about 1 1/2 inches off starting at the boards and then tapered in towards the front probably ending with about 1/2 in. off.
For those wondering if these work with a skid plate the answer is yes! I put my on using the stock holes in the middle of the sled, then marked along the outer edge where to cut. I cut about 1 1/2 inches off starting at the boards and then tapered in towards the front probably ending with about 1/2 in. off.
Something not on the videos, they were incredibly helpful btw, was installation of traction screws. Is there an easier way? Assuming the holes need drilled out, what size bit? Will they strip out if over tightened? I've taken my sweet time with the install of these and traction is all that's left.
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Yes do not try to over tighten them. Just get them to bottom out nice and snug, might be able to tighten 1/8th of a turn once bottomed. I lay down pieces of painters tape to get a perfect straight line down, then use a center punch before drilling or the drill bit can walk on you since the bars are round. I forgot what drill bit size is used. Just call BMfab and ask.
Thanks. Great info here and in all other threads relating to this.
1/8" bit with a sharp tip per BM.
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Gloss was the finish color on those. I prefer semi gloss
Semi gloss bmfab boards match cats black powdercoat tunnel color
T
Thinking of doing the green powder coat to get a little color on my black LE. Does anyone know what their green compares to? Seems like there is a lot of different cat greens anymore.
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I just talked to brian last night. He said he's got some 'classic' cat green ones but he hasn't matched the limited lighter green yet. Sounds like 2013-2014 snopro green.
Working on matching the LE green now. Unfortunately every manufacturer seems to want to change colors every year to a new color that nobody can match easily unless you have an in with a manufacturer. I don't really want to order a custom batch cause it's expensive to do. Any color you want as long as it's black sure rings nice to me these days.
Bryan
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Bryan
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I was actually hoping for the classic green. I like the darker green. The new lighter green is good but I like the older color.
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I think the gloss or semi-gloss black looks great on the limited green. Breaks up some of the green. I would not want the boards green, but maybe it would look good on a black LE.
