Starting 600 after draining fuel
- Thread starter 07dragon
- Start date
V
I've got an old bottle that used to contain contact solution that I put mix gas in. I pull the plugs give each hole a shot then put the plugs back in. Pull the thing over and let the engine do the fuel pumping. Might have to do it a couple times before you get fuel built up to run.
I second what Volcano buster says. Was the in tank fuel line okay when you had the tank out?
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Didn't pull the line out of the tank.... :doh: I can see the line with the cap off, I blew air threw the line from the pump back into tank to see if line was blocked or broke, doesn't seem it.
Pulled rope a few times, look in tank and can see the fuel in the line, pull a few more times and can see the fuel further up the line, like everything is working. But I can't see any fuel making it into the red lines outside tank that go to fuel pump. Seems like it stops at the 90 degree elbow leaving the tank, but I blew air threw there and doesn't seem like a restriction....
Pulled rope a few times, look in tank and can see the fuel in the line, pull a few more times and can see the fuel further up the line, like everything is working. But I can't see any fuel making it into the red lines outside tank that go to fuel pump. Seems like it stops at the 90 degree elbow leaving the tank, but I blew air threw there and doesn't seem like a restriction....
V
Ethanol fuel could have rotten the line or at least a hole in it.
I still suggest using the engine to start to fire and draw fuel up into the system. If that still only allows it to run the fuel out of the cylinder and not bring any to the pump, then slip the tank off and pull the inlet tube.
I still suggest using the engine to start to fire and draw fuel up into the system. If that still only allows it to run the fuel out of the cylinder and not bring any to the pump, then slip the tank off and pull the inlet tube.
Check needles and seats. If the rubber tips have gotten sticky they will not let fuel in. Put a hose on the carb inlet and blow. If you can not easily blow air in they are stuck.
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took air box off and watched the fuel in the line, got it to the pump and some to the carbs. no start. pulled plugs, plugs are now wet, top of pistons wet, getting fuel to cylinders, but now seems to not have any spark..... any was to check the cdi box or stator so I don't have to shotgun approach diagnostics?
Put in new plugs or dry the ones you have first and retry.
Disconnect the throttle lever connector to rule out the throttle safety switches and kill switch.
You can do resistance checks on stator. Ignition windings are DG to Rd 15 ohms, DG to Blk/Rd 15 ohms looking back into stator. Ignition coil itself plug wire to plug wire 5K ohms (If you measure from cap to cap you can add another 10K ohms to that), Bk to Wh 3 ohms.
Disconnect the throttle lever connector to rule out the throttle safety switches and kill switch.
You can do resistance checks on stator. Ignition windings are DG to Rd 15 ohms, DG to Blk/Rd 15 ohms looking back into stator. Ignition coil itself plug wire to plug wire 5K ohms (If you measure from cap to cap you can add another 10K ohms to that), Bk to Wh 3 ohms.
A quick way to check for correct spark is to take plugs out and lay them on top of motor. If they have a strong snapping white and blue spark when you pull it over your are either flooded or have a serious exhaust obstruction.
If the spark is inconsistent or has any yellow or orange tint you have an ignition issue.
Check your choke plungers to be sure they are free to go up and down freely and are bottoming out.
If the spark is inconsistent or has any yellow or orange tint you have an ignition issue.
Check your choke plungers to be sure they are free to go up and down freely and are bottoming out.
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Dried the plugs, put back in, no help (changed plugs when first discovered this issue), disconnected the throttle lever/kill switch plug I believe (clear/yellow plug by steering post, 3 wires In, 4 out) and no help. Checked resistance of the black to white wires going into coil pack, the plug in to the engine harness on coil side, .1 ohms. From this connector to each plug wire is open. Checked voltage at the wh to bk wires on harness side while pulling rope, OL till engine quits tuning over then 250v and slowly drops off to nothing.
Retiredpop, the bk to wh reading should be 3 ohms, I'm getting .1, this is the connector that is a part of the coil pack correct?
Retiredpop, the bk to wh reading should be 3 ohms, I'm getting .1, this is the connector that is a part of the coil pack correct?
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I've tired laying plugs on top of motor, can't see spark. Took the boot off the plug wires, local dealer said easier to see spark this way, 1 plugwire upon removal the wires inside the fell out, broke off. Cut back the plug wire till back to good strand. Still no spark.
I apologize. The reading Bk to Wh should be .3 ohms not 3 ohms. You're probably okay on that reading you got.
On your sled the coil is separate from the CDI unit. What resistance did you read from spark plug lead to spark plug lead? If that was good then your leads are not the problem. It is still possible you have a faulty coil or the coil is not grounded properly.
Resistance sounds right plug cap to plug cap. I just mentioned the ground because some coils needed a ground wire and I couldn't remember the Polaris coil for sure.
What resistance do you measure from each plug cap to engine ground? I just measured mine on a CFI engine and it is 18.3 K ohms which is 1/2 of the cap to cap resistance.
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