Late March last spring was my last ride of the season, unfortunately I only made it 5 miles and it crapped out on me. I thought I lost my crank, but could still pull the rope, and actually did get it restarted, but it sounded terrible. We towed it back to the trailer and while my friends rode I took a look at my top end and all was fine, I only had 400 miles on my new DD bearing, so in my opinion, since it sounded awful at idle, is that I probably lost a bearing or more in my crank. I don't have any pictures, and really don't have the know-how to feel comfortable fixing it right. What are the common problems associated with the crank on the 07 M1000's, and what am I looking at to fix whatever those issues might be? The sled has just under 2000 miles.
Broken M1000, opinions???
- Thread starter tgoodwin
- Start date
A
Did you pull the heads and jugs? If so do you have movement in the rod bearing?
Doesn't sound good. Your best bet would be a long block. Will set you back a good $2000.
I just went through this last year on my 07 also.
(PS, I traded it in on an 09) (not that the motor is any different, but I was riding the next weekend rather than waiting for parts.) :face-icon-small-win
Thunder
Doesn't sound good. Your best bet would be a long block. Will set you back a good $2000.
I just went through this last year on my 07 also.
(PS, I traded it in on an 09) (not that the motor is any different, but I was riding the next weekend rather than waiting for parts.) :face-icon-small-win
Thunder
M
bent maybe or out of phase,, rebuilt crank is like 600,, get it pinned and welded then for 150
dont underestimate yourself ,,
these bottom ends are simple you can do it ,post here and we can help you every step of the way during rebuild
not sure whats wrong with it until you know whats wrong with it though ,, going through the whole thing will tell you that ,, or at least help you guess
dont underestimate yourself ,,
these bottom ends are simple you can do it ,post here and we can help you every step of the way during rebuild
not sure whats wrong with it until you know whats wrong with it though ,, going through the whole thing will tell you that ,, or at least help you guess
I wouldn't weld and pin it, one of the top short block builders told me it was not needed on these huge m1000 cranks but you want to get it trued for sure and check the throw to make sure its a 180*. The disassemble and reassemble is pretty normal but you want to have someone that knows what there doing get the crank ready to drop in.
I lost my rod bearing last year also. Just over 2,000 miles. It will cost around $2,000 to have someone fix it for you. You could find used cranks online and do it your self but if you do something wrong you are stuck fixing it again on your own dime. If you pay a shop to do it and something happens they are liable. While they have it apart have them remove the stock oil pump and drill the case.
Just my 2 pennies.
Just my 2 pennies.
A
Wish i would have done this route with mine. (broke the primary journal off of the crank on 1900 miles on sled) In the end with me doing all of the rebuilding it will have put me down
Rebuilt crank 500 (still waiting to get it back)
Pistons (wiseco) 180
Complete gaskets 220
Total of 1000 not including a new primary and secondary (when it broke the primary went for a ride underneath the hood luckily it stayed under the hood)
With purchasing a new motor like said before you can sell the parts or reuse the if you have another motor faliure
I would get a hold of "free agent" last I heard she had a good deal on long blocks if there is any left.
Get it pulled apart before you do anything else in my opinion, whether you do it yourself or not. There is no sense buying anything until you know what you're dealing with, then post some pics of what you have and THEN decide on what to buy.
You can still get a complete new motor pretty cheap, if you end up going that route. I've seen a few in the swapmeet here and I just bought one from a place back east delivered to my house for $2065 and he said he has about a dozen left.
Thats exactly what I did,I picked up two of them this summer from her.You can't beat the price and it is a complete motor except for oil pump and powervalve cables.
If you, for sure, lost some part of the crank then: What they said ^
Just as a possibility, you can pull the recoil to make sure you don't have a loose flywheel bolt(s) or something real simple like a recoil starting to come apart.
You might also take a good hard look at the clutch to make sure it isn't starting to grenade. Look behind it at the motor mounting bolts. Sometime they backout and rattle against the clutch.
If you are up to removing the clutch and flywheel, you can use a dial indicator and spin the motor(spark plugs removed) to see if there is any run out. That would be very telling.
It would be cool if it were something simple and cheap to fix.
Good luck!
Just as a possibility, you can pull the recoil to make sure you don't have a loose flywheel bolt(s) or something real simple like a recoil starting to come apart.
You might also take a good hard look at the clutch to make sure it isn't starting to grenade. Look behind it at the motor mounting bolts. Sometime they backout and rattle against the clutch.
If you are up to removing the clutch and flywheel, you can use a dial indicator and spin the motor(spark plugs removed) to see if there is any run out. That would be very telling.
It would be cool if it were something simple and cheap to fix.
Good luck!
