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Custom Turbo Setup - 14 RMK 800

Turboegt

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Dec 16, 2015
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I’ve had the sled for two season now and have been collecting parts the last two years.

So far I have:

Bosch Motorsports 1000cc Injectors drop right into factory harness, and location.
Power Commander PTI - Installed
Power Commander Autotune
V Force Reeds - Installed
K04 Turbo Charger - Looking at turbine and compressor maps it should provide lightning fast spool, and be able to support about 295-325hp depending on efficiency of the intercooler with the turbo running full tilt. Wastegate hat is currently set at 8psi.
Boondocker Oil Tank, and pump.
All the exhaust flanges needed to mate the turbo up.
Adjustable Clutch Weights.
Blue/Pink Primary spring
Larger Pump for the Oil supply line

Brand new top end with:
BMP case spacer
Arctic Cat Wiseco pistons.
All new bearings and seals

Brand new bottom end
New crank and rods, water pump, bearings seals etc.

Things I still need buy:

Some stainless steel tubing for exhaust fab.
Aluminum tubing for intake fab.
Aluminum plate for airbox fab.
Misc. nuts and bolts - Hardware store is a block away.
Fitting for the oil feed line.
A/W or A2A Intercooler and fittings.

Questions:

1) I notice a lot of the kits have some method of securing the charge piping or airbox to the throttle bodies with something other than a silicone couple and t-bolt clamps.

I’ve seen some companies that use a bar that bolts to the jugs, and then to the airbox and others that use a screw on type connector to the throttle body itself.

Is there a reason for this I am not seeing?

2) Blow off valve. From listening to a lot of the kits run, it sounds like they are running a very VERY light spring on the valve itself. I assume this is due to the small amount of vacuum that these sleds pull at idle.

Any idea on what this spring setting is? I’d like to use a blow off valve that I have on hand, and am assuming I’m going to need to order a lighter spring for the valve as it’s coming off a high vacuum 4 stroke setup.

3) Air fuel ratio vs. EGT for engine monitoring purposes.

If you were to run one or the other, what do you guys prefer and why?

4) Air fuel ratios at WOT and 2 strokes.

What target air fuel ratios are you guys using when establishing a safe test tube? I understand there will be a bit more unburned Air fuel mixture coming into the down pipe, and the air fuels I use to tune 4 strokes may be too lean or too rich for a 2 stroke.

5) Timing.

The PTI has full control over ignition timing. As I understand 2 strokes their ignition timing curves are very different than 4 strokes.

Are any of you guys messing around with boost based ignition control, and if so what kind of results are you seeing, and what does a safe timing curve look like on these sleds?

6) Compression.

I have a BMP head at the house, and was kicking around the idea of picking up a set of the low compression turbo domes.

Would you recommend doing so? What are your arguments for or against this?

7) Injector relocation.

I was kicking around the idea of installing the injectors pre-throttle body.

Worth the time and effort?

8) Intercooler

I’m planning on running wastegate spring pressure of 8 psi initially. Which should put the sled around 190-200hp.

Is an intercooler necessary at these boost levels?

Would you recommend running an Air to water or Air to Air setup? Weighing the pros and cons of increased weight vs cooler charge air coming from tunnel cooled water.

9) Voltage Demands

How are you guys running all these additional 12v systems?
Is this putting a significant increase in demand on the stator?
Is it capable of reliably supporting the increased amp draw?

Are any of you supplementing with a small battery? If so where are you mounting it? What size are you you using?

10) Plugs.

What heat range plugs are you running and at what power levels?

11) Cooling

Are any of you adding supplemental cooling systems to keep these sleds alive, or to increase performance?

12) Adding an external wastegate in conjunction with the internal gate.

I have been kicking around the idea of installing an additional external wastegate. Reason being, I have one in the garage collecting dust. I would like to get the sled up and running on a very low boost setup. Think near atmosphereic pressure. Maybe 2-3psi, and start working out the kinks in the system before I start pushing for more power. Thoughts?

13) Limits of the engine.

Once everything is dialed. I’ll have enough injector, and turbo to push some significant power.

Has anyone reached the upper limit of these engines yet? I’m talking about jugs splitting, or crank case halves coming apart.

Where are the weak links?

14) Using the power Commander to power a secondary set of injectors.

Obviously the power Commander has its own injector drivers, and uses the signal from the factory computer, modifies it, and powers the injector driver within the power Commander to power the injectors in the sled.

Is it possible to still have the sled power it’s original injectors, Tap the wires send the signal to the power Commander and have the power Commander drive a set of secondary injectors pre throttle body for boost purposes only?

That way I get stock ridablity with supplemental fuel only when the engine needs it.

Pros and Cons?

15) Axys Pistons.

Getting did of the aftermarket pistons and spaced for a set of Axys pistons. The Axys pistons look like a great design.

Pros and Cons?

Thanks for the read.
 

roughrider99

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Jan 9, 2008
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Fernie,BC
1. The bolt on style prevents the intercooler popping off at higher boost levels, some setups also use billet throttle bodies as the rubber throttle bodies can split or fail earlier with higher boost.

2, a light spring will help the BOV open up faster and open fully, thus venting charge air as fast as possible, when throttle plates close the pressure has go somewhere and if it can't vent out the BOV the only way out is back through the turbo which will slow the compressor down increasing time it takes to spoil back up. Unsure of what BOV you have I use ones with adjustable screw on the top and I back it off till it starts to leak then crank it back up a couple turns.

3&4 my pro ran 10.5 wot and I'd see 14-15 cruise, air fuel ratio is common and I think it's easier to see what your system is doing, egts tend to be slow in terms of realtime feedback, thus air fuel ratio gives instant readings good for tuning fuel for on/off throttle.

5 can't speak to if any of the outfits with the tuned factory ecms are playing with timing but most companies are not, boondocker has timing keys to pull up 3* timing on the top end to work with boost/fuel requirements

6 don't lower compression, imo it's like timing I prefer to not lower compression or timing if I have adequate fuel for the boost i want to run. Stock compression/timing makes for a more responsive setup. But if you want higher boost but don't have access to the proper octane fuel to match then you will need to look at lowering compression and/or pulling timing to suit. IMO leave that alone and bring boost level to match your fuel.

7 I have secondary injectors pre throttle body, I didn't notice anything to gain other than a cleaner tighter package and help with how my intake and charge pipes are above throttle bodies and incredibly short

8. I run 8 psi standalone w/a intercooler, wouldn't have it any other way, had to turn the boost down by 2lbs to maintain clutching compared to non intercooled

9.i run oil pump, gauges, fuel controller, and small water pump and no issues, if you wanted a battery they usually mount by the chaincase, or do headlight delete and use resistors to match your electrical draw with everything that has been added.

10 orignals have worked for me can't remember the plug number right now

11, I kept stock cooling and was just always running my scratchters down andnwas good, some springs I would have to pack some snow in the coolers in the right conditions and we were driving slow

12 you don't run 2 wastegates on the sled it's one of the other, that will cause issues with inconsistent running and poor boost control with each one opening at different pressures and they flow different aswell. Stick with internal gate for simplicity since your learning 2-3 psi is low aswell you need to see what pressure your wastegate spring is rated for as that's the minimum boost you can run with boost controller. I tried doing that way and it just means you retune again when you go up. Pick the boost level you want and tune with straight race gas to protect yourself from detonation. While you learn.

13. Dunno on limits I ran 18lbs for a weekend trying to win some drags, still going strong that was over 1000miles ago

15, I have been using wossner pistons, they are pricey but top quality instead of buying cheaper pistons and fix it kit. My buddies with pros and myself have 15k miles collectively and no issues with these pistons

Sent ya pm in regards to parts you may be looking for.
 
Last edited:
X
Oct 8, 2009
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Two things...

1. Not knowing more about your turbo, it is likely that your turbo is too small since it has small turbine. A 2 stroke is like a rotary motor...they flow a lot of air and they only take a sample of the air flowing through them. A typical 800 flows around 225 cfm on displacment only. That doesnt include air flow wasted into the pipe. Two strokes need low back pressure, so run an external gate.

2. The pcv can be wired to run secondary injectors and that is a great way to go with an autotune. Finally, why do you have 1000cc injectors? You're better of with multiple stages of smaller injectors. There is a science to injector selection i cannot get into here, but large injectors are not always a better option.
 
Last edited:

Turboegt

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Dec 16, 2015
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I sized the injectors to flow enough fuel to run 300hp at 80% duty cycle without a secondary set of injectors. I was planning on running them in place of the factory injectors.

I selected this specific turbo for quick spool. It’s capable of flowing enough air to produce about 300-330 crank horsepower at 8500 RPM.

However will flow 200-225hp at 8500 RPM at peak efficiency of the turbine and compressor wheels.

The turbo was designed for a 1.8l engine producing 225hp at 6000RPM.

The 800cc 2 stroke has an effective displacement of 1.6l. I ran the air flow calculations for my desired power level, compared compressor maps, and turbine maps, and for my targeted power level of 200hp, the turbo will flow more than adequately, and provide a very quick spool.

Have you spent much time tuning the PCV?
 
Last edited:
X
Oct 8, 2009
310
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I have been tuning on the PCV for several years. It has been a lifesaver since I ported the head on my viper. The PCV gives you the ability to control both NA and Boost VE mapping. So, if you port your engine or change anything that affects flow other than boost, you can adjust for it with a PCV.
 
Last edited:

Turboegt

Active member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 16, 2015
83
36
18
Two things...

1. Not knowing more about your turbo, it is likely that your turbo is too small since it has small turbine. A 2 stroke is like a rotary motor...they flow a lot of air and they only take a sample of the air flowing through them. A typical 800 flows around 225 cfm on displacment only. That doesnt include air flow wasted into the pipe. Two strokes need low back pressure, so run an external gate.

2. The pcv can be wired to run secondary injectors and that is a great way to go with an autotune. Finally, why do you have 1000cc injectors? You're better of with multiple stages of smaller injectors. There is a science to injector selection i cannot get into here, but large injectors are not always a better option.

The turbo i selected will flow 321 CFM at 9 PSI.

This is the biggest K series turbo they made.
 
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