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  #1  
Old 12-13-2015, 07:59 PM
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Default TPS check / adjust step by step.

Figured I would start a new post so all the info is in one place. This is the info for the guys that choose to do this on their own rather then taking it to the dealer and hoping they do it right.

Its likely gonna take ya an hour or two the first time you do it, there is a lot of stuff that needs to come off.

Remove side panels, hood, and dash, when removing the dash remove the 10mm screws from the ECU and leave the ECU in place and wiring hooked up. Then remove all the clips for the gas tank shroud, then lift up a couple inches and there is a single connector for the mode/select , hand warmers switch, its about 6" back from the switches. Then slide the shroud back from the steering post, pull the starter rope out a foot or 2 and then just lay that off to the side of the sled. Next remove the seat buy taking off the 4 10mm nuts on the seat mount, lifting it up off the studs and then slide straight back. Next is the fuel tank, remove the 2 10mm nuts at the back of the tank, unhook the wiring coming off the fuel pump, its a single connector about 6" in front of the tank. Remove 1 10mm screw on the left front of the tank, its up under the over structure right in front of the white tank vent (no hose on it is normal). Then carefully slide back the safety clips on the fuel lines, no tools require, just use your finger, release each side of the clip then slide back about a 1/8", then carefully pull the fuel lines straight up. A very small amount of fuel will leak out. Now lift the rear of the tank off the studs and slide tank back and remove from sled. Now you need to loosen the clamps on the air box going to the throttle bodies. It helps if you remove the belt and secondary clutch, but can be done with out removing the clutch. After loosening the hose clamps (1/4" socket) you can pull the air box back about 3/4" to get it free from the throttle bodies. Now you will be able to see the adjusting screw (2.5mm allen, 8mm jam nut) by slightly lifting up the air box and look between the bottom of the air box and the jack shaft. Its between the throttle bodies, closer to the PTO side. Now you need to unhook the throttle cable from the flipper, just go WOT and hold the cable with your other hand and you can push the cable out of the flipper. Next you need to go back to the adjusting screw, loosen the jam nut and then back it off 2-3 turns and make sure the screw is no longer touching the cam on the throttle shaft.
Now your ready to check your TPS settings
Next step is to provide 12volts to the ECU connector in front of the clutch cover near the upper shock mount. Apply B+ to the orange wire and ground to the black/blue wire. Now hook up a GOOD quality volt meter to the TPS connector, its in the bag right above the PTO spark plug. Its 3 wires, triangle connector, Black, Blue, Yellow. Leave the connector plugged in and carefully back probe the terminal between the wire and weather pack seal. If you dont have a back probe, use a very thin gauge paper clip unfolded. Put your black volt meter lead to ground, I use the chassis bolt with ground wires attached to it near the ECU connector you powered up. Put the red lead to the Yellow wire on the TPS connector and make sure you have 5.00-5.01 volts. If thats good, now move your back probe to the blue wire on the TPS connector. You should have something in the .690-.712 volt range, thats the spec for your BASE setting. Set this reading to exactly .700 , this is done by loosening the 2 screws on the TPS sensor which is on the MAG side throttle body. This is a very touchy adjustment and your reading will likely change slightly when you tighten the screws back up, you need to compensate for this change when adjusting, it needs to be .700 when tight. Double check the adjusting screw is NOT touching then cam on the throttle shaft, use a mirror if needed. Now that your BASE setting is correct you need to set the IDLE setting. This is done by turning the adjusting screw (2.5mm allen) back in, slowly turn that in until your voltage reading is .940 then tighten the 8mm jam nut while holding the 2.5mm screw. Your reading is going to increase and once again you need to compensate for this and make sure your at .940 when the jam nut is tight. Thats it, your DONE! Now you just need to put everything back together. Make sure the air box slides back onto the throttle bodies correclty, use a mirror if there is any doubt.
Hope that helps. Eric
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Old 12-13-2015, 09:17 PM
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Thanks for writing this up.

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Old 12-13-2015, 09:59 PM
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Great Write-Up...thanks for putting this up here for all of us to benefit from....This is a great check to do... and adjustment if needed (MANY need it)

Quote:
Originally Posted by SRXSRULE View Post
Figured I would start a new post so all the info is in one place. This is the info for the guys that choose to do this on their own rather then taking it to the dealer and hoping they do it right.

Its likely gonna take ya an hour or two the first time you do it, there is a lot of stuff that needs to come off.

Remove side panels, hood, and dash,
when removing the dash remove the 10mm screws from the ECU and leave the ECU in place and wiring hooked up.

Then remove all the clips for the gas tank shroud,
then lift up a couple inches and there is a single connector for the mode/select , hand warmers switch, its about 6" back from the switches.

Then slide the shroud back from the steering post, pull the starter rope out a foot or 2 and then just lay that off to the side of the sled.

Next remove the seat buy taking off the 4 10mm nuts on the seat mount, lifting it up off the studs and then slide straight back.

Next is the fuel tank, remove the 2 10mm nuts at the back of the tank, unhook the wiring coming off the fuel pump, its a single connector about 6" in front of the tank.
Remove 1 10mm screw on the left front of the tank, its up under the over structure right in front of the white tank vent (no hose on it is normal).

Then carefully slide back the safety clips on the fuel lines, no tools require, just use your finger, release each side of the clip then slide back about a 1/8", then carefully pull the fuel lines straight up. A very small amount of fuel will leak out.

Now lift the rear of the tank off the studs and slide tank back and remove from sled.

Now you need to loosen the clamps on the air box going to the throttle bodies. It helps if you remove the belt and secondary clutch, but can be done with out removing the clutch. After loosening the hose clamps (1/4" socket) you can pull the air box back about 3/4" to get it free from the throttle bodies.

Now you will be able to see the adjusting screw (2.5mm allen, 8mm jam nut) by slightly lifting up the air box and look between the bottom of the air box and the jack shaft. Its between the throttle bodies, closer to the PTO side.

Now you need to unhook the throttle cable from the flipper, just go WOT and hold the cable with your other hand and you can push the cable out of the flipper.

Next you need to go back to the adjusting screw, loosen the jam nut and then back it off 2-3 turns and make sure the screw is no longer touching the cam on the throttle shaft.

Now your ready to check your TPS settings
Next step is to provide 12volts to the ECU connector in front of the clutch cover near the upper shock mount.

Apply B+ to the orange wire and ground to the black/blue wire. Now hook up a GOOD quality volt meter to the TPS connector, its in the bag right above the PTO spark plug. Its 3 wires, triangle connector, Black, Blue, Yellow. Leave the connector plugged in and carefully back probe the terminal between the wire and weather pack seal. If you dont have a back probe, use a very thin gauge paper clip unfolded.

Put your black volt meter lead to ground, I use the chassis bolt with ground wires attached to it near the ECU connector you powered up.

Put the red lead to the Yellow wire on the TPS connector and make sure you have 5.00-5.01 volts.

If thats good, now move your back probe to the blue wire on the TPS connector.

You should have something in the .690-.712 volt range, thats the spec for your BASE setting.

Set this reading to exactly .700 , this is done by loosening the 2 screws on the TPS sensor which is on the MAG side throttle body. This is a very touchy adjustment and your reading will likely change slightly when you tighten the screws back up, you need to compensate for this change when adjusting, it needs to be .700 when tight.

Double check the adjusting screw is NOT touching then cam on the throttle shaft, use a mirror if needed.

Now that your BASE setting is correct you need to set the IDLE setting.

This is done by turning the adjusting screw (2.5mm allen) back in, slowly turn that in until your voltage reading is .940 then tighten the 8mm jam nut while holding the 2.5mm screw.

Your reading is going to increase and once again you need to compensate for this and make sure your at .940 when the jam nut is tight.

Thats it, your DONE!

Now you just need to put everything back together.

Make sure the air box slides back onto the throttle bodies correclty, use a mirror if there is any doubt.
Hope that helps. Eric
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Old 12-13-2015, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mountainhorse View Post
Great Write-Up...thanks for putting this up here for all of us to benefit from....This is a great check to do... and adjustment if needed (MANY need it)
No problem. My sled was one that needed it. My sled would no longer stay idling on its own from a cold start up, plus I had the low idle issue even once warmed up.
My base setting was .723 and idle setting was .930, adjusting the base fixed my dieing problem but .930 ended up being just a little too low of an idle setting. I have since changed that to .940 and its working perfect now. Eric
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Old 12-13-2015, 10:17 PM
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I suspect that some variation in Fuel pressure... even if within factory tolerances... can also affect these sleds (all CFi Poo's).

No test port on the AXYS (or even from 2013 up).... So it's a PITA.

Poo has a test-port hose adapter for these sleds... would be easy to make one up though.

I'd be interested in seeing what your actual fuel pressure is.

Through the years... I've seen factory FPR's running as low as 52 psi and as high as 63 (58-psi, or 4-bar, is the designed pressure).

I was also surprised to see that Polaris is simply relying on the in tank pick up sock as the only fuel filter in the system...given the injector intolerance for debris or varnish....





.
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Old 12-13-2015, 11:24 PM
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Any suggestions on a good multimeter and 12 volt source? Don't think the free with coupon Harbor Freight one will cut it! Also when dialing in the TPS does going one direction (clockwise vs. counterclockwise in the "slot") increase decrease voltage? Thanks for posting.
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Old 12-14-2015, 07:40 AM
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Any suggestions on a good multimeter and 12 volt source? Don't think the free with coupon Harbor Freight one will cut it! Also when dialing in the TPS does going one direction (clockwise vs. counterclockwise in the "slot") increase decrease voltage? Thanks for posting.
I second these questions
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Old 12-14-2015, 11:48 AM
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I second these questions
All you need is a 12volt battery, car, truck, lawn mower all would be fine to use.
As for the meter, I use a Fluke 88 but thats pretty high dollar if you dont use it all the time. I also have a Klein meter that I have for home use, its pretty good and would work fine for this. You can buy them at lowes for around 50 bucks. Eric
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Old 12-14-2015, 03:07 PM
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Please excuse my ignorance but why and how do you know it will need to be adjusted? Actually thinking about jumping ship from Doo. Thanks.
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Old 12-14-2015, 03:16 PM
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Please excuse my ignorance but why and how do you know it will need to be adjusted? Actually thinking about jumping ship from Doo. Thanks.

If the sled is hard to start (3-4 pulls), if it idles too low or too high, if its dies going into reverse or wont go into reverse, if your plugs look too lean or too rich.......this is one of the first places to start checking.

The TPS setting plays a huge role in fuel delivery and very small adjustments make a big difference.

Eric
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Old 12-15-2015, 04:17 PM
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Old 12-15-2015, 05:49 PM
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Old 12-15-2015, 07:48 PM
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:56 AM
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Old 12-18-2015, 09:57 PM
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Old 12-19-2015, 08:23 PM
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Old 12-20-2015, 09:46 AM
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Old 12-20-2015, 02:10 PM
trackvs2wheels trackvs2wheels is offline
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  #21  
Old 12-20-2015, 02:13 PM
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  #22  
Old 12-20-2015, 02:19 PM
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Old 12-20-2015, 02:24 PM
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  #24  
Old 12-20-2015, 06:28 PM
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  #25  
Old 12-20-2015, 06:56 PM
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