Ktm 380 custom kit phase 2

eric82930 · Oct 27, 2017

Here is my post from last year's build.
https://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=418333&highlight=380

I broke the vane controler on the aerocharger and decided to go back to naturaly asperated in stead of getting it fixed. The turbo was a liitle too big and was too laggy = no fun.

Over the summer i built new one piece side panels and a full top tunnel with a one piece frame/subframe/seat holder. Last year's frame vibrated like a mutha but when i put the 380 engine in the frame with the stock timbersled the vibs were better so I redesigned the custom frame to suck up the vibs better. It worked (superior engineering or I just got lucky)

The main fuel is in the 6 gallon tank in the back with a pulse pump feeding the carb. The front tank is now a skinny 1.8g sx tank i just use for reserve.

I made a pipe guard skid plate to block some pow from the engine. The carb now has two of the ktm 20 watt electric carb heaters.

eric82930 · Oct 27, 2017

Check out how far back the pegs are. I ride standing up more than most. I tested it after our summer snow storm a few weeks ago it's strange having to take my foot off the peg to shift but i think i can get used to it. I added the little stud to have a heel rest for up shifting. It works fine sitting or standing I just need to train myself to move my foot. I pre drilled the holes where i had them mounted last year in case I decide to go back. Last year's pegs were only an inch behind the stock location and felt better than my twin bike with the stock frame and timbersled.

The front is super light. I can lift it with one hand. I might have to add more force on my rear shock when it gets deep.

eric82930 · Oct 28, 2017

The 141 powerclaw really sucked in the normal direction. I flipped it back and forth a few times last year and the normal direction goes faster on the road with less rolling resistence but spins out and trenches in powder and also spins out in spring snow. My sx 121 could idle up hills that the powerclaw would get stuck on in the spring. Flipping it backwards works pretty well but throws roost for miles.

NEWDUCK · Oct 30, 2017

That approach angle just seems unnatural haha. I just envision that track slapping around with no support up there. Cool build!

eric82930 · Dec 12, 2017

I already burnt through 2 gallons of premix oil this year and the 380 is working pretty dang good.

Its been pretty heavy snow for early season so I can't really benefit from the long track its more of a hindrance right now.

I got brave and cut a mm off the top of the exhaust port and finally got it to rev but somehow lost nothing on the bottom that I can tell. I also found a mangled up stock pipe on ebay I could salvage. The stock pipe is best for top end. The gnarly and fatty weren't as good. They make more torque down low but its worthless on a snow bike.

I am still running the power claw backwards but took a torch to it to get ride of some of the hook on the paddles. rolling resistance is way better at high speed and traction is awesome. Braking is better too.

The best thing about this pile of junk is the lack of vibration and Super suspension. I got really lucky with the one piece frame it must dampen all the vibes. Nothing has come loose on it anywhere. The chain adjuster is easy and solid. The gas tank is cool, I don't have to freeze my hands on my lunch break anymore to dump in extra fuel.

The updated block and rubber on the mtx spindle really helped, even the yeti ski behaves better with the updates.

eric82930 · Dec 12, 2017

This is my other bike. It is the old big block 300 that I de-stroked and ported to be a top end monster. It used to smoke the 380 in peak HP. It was the benchmark I used when tuning the 380 but now the 380 finally has more power and way less vibration.

I am seriously thinking of gutting the frame backbone and building a one piece frame/subframe and chain adjuster like I did on the 380. This is an sx120 kit so the drive axle is already higher like the aro. It really sucks to adjust the chain and vibration is noticeable. The vibs aren't horrible but now that I can appreciate what a smooth 2 stroke feels like, It might be worth some cutting and welding.

Hawkster · Dec 12, 2017

I see you have a TS ski and I noticed in another thread you were asking about the new ski .
Since you do your own work why don't you just fab up two pieces of angle iron with studs , they are about 11 1/2" long and 1/8 thick . Round the front and back so they don't snag ?
Than the only difference is the weight . The TS ski will never let you down , haven't heard of anyone breaking a Flexi Ski .

eric82930 · Dec 12, 2017

I did that on my trasher ski I built last year out of a Simmons gen2. It worked pretty good but it stuck to the snow real bad in some conditions. It was better on the short track the center keel wasn't tall enough to turn the school bus though...

Hawkster · Dec 12, 2017

I still run the Gen II , fastest ski made .

The underside of the TS and the Traverse are pretty similar . The angle iron/tracker blades are the biggest difference . That's why it cuts so well and also for giggles the measurements for the bolt pattern on the Gen II and TS is the same .

Hawkster · Dec 12, 2017

Gen II

NEWDUCK · Dec 13, 2017

The gen II also holds the record for most broken knee caps....

Hawkster · Dec 13, 2017

NEWDUCK said:
The gen II also holds the record for most broken knee caps....

Knee caps ?! I must be doing it wrong , completely bypass the knee caps and go directly to face plant .
That was funny .

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Ktm 380 custom kit phase 2

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