Pro rmk 2016 throttle rpm problems help!

Teth-Air · Jan 7, 2017

stormaren said:
Update;

1. Set the TPS.

ECU 4.996V

Before:
Base 0.714
IDLE 0.947
WOT 4.43
IDLE RPM 1750-1800

After:
BASE 0.700
IDLE 0.940
WOT 4.310
IDLE RPM 1850-1900

2. Sealed the whole exhaust system with black silicone.

3. Changed the clutch completely with new helix, weights, primary- and secondary spring.

Still only pulling 8200 consistantly, saw 8300 twice...
Been riding for 100km today.

:face-icon-small-fro :face-icon-small-fro :face-icon-small-fro

Keep in mind the max. torque rpm is lower than the max hp rpm. If you load your motor for 8300rpm it will likely drop rpm but if you run at the max torque curve, you can hold rpm and possibly even have more track speed. These motors like a load so if you only look at trying to hold 8300, you likely will over-rev on the flats and might go slower on the climbs. Also I had a 2015 and a 2016 out last season and from one day to the next they both lost 200 rpm when the weather changed. Hard to clutch for that.

Sage Crusher · Jan 7, 2017

stormaren said:
Seems like the more I dig around this, the more people seem to have this exact problem...

Has anyone tried to clean and recalibrate the exhaust valves?
Pretty much the only thing I havent tried yet.

Might be getting some more info about this when people get home from their awesome trips with their working-as-intended axys.

For now, I dont know anything else other then to look at the valves. :face-icon-small-dis

Just for hecks sake - look at your reeds also- and to fully pull the exhaust valves you must pull off the PTO side boot and remove the steering pivot - then you can fully pull the valves all the way out- also Cory ( Boston Racing) told me today that he has a set of the exhaust valve relays go bad not giving full opening.

greasemonkey3406 · Jan 8, 2017

I just cleaned my exhaust valves last night just to have them fresh before I go out and ride. What a pita job!! Had to take the entire lower steering post out and to do that, I had to take off the front bumper, skid plate and let go the boot for the tie rod on the lh side. All of this just to get at the nut that holds the bottom of the shaft in place. Also, the pipe needs to be removed to get at the steering linkage on the bottom of the post. They did have a fair bit of gunk on them for only 750 miles.

Zanne81 · Jan 8, 2017

greasemonkey3406 said:
I just cleaned my exhaust valves last night just to have them fresh before I go out and ride. What a pita job!! Had to take the entire lower steering post out and to do that, I had to take off the front bumper, skid plate and let go the boot for the tie rod on the lh side. All of this just to get at the nut that holds the bottom of the shaft in place. Also, the pipe needs to be removed to get at the steering linkage on the bottom of the post. They did have a fair bit of gunk on them for only 750 miles.

strange... I took my exhaust valves off and only removed the lower steering post clamp and then moved the post so there was enough space to remove the valves. Very easy that way

greasemonkey3406 · Jan 8, 2017

Zanne81 said:
strange... I took my exhaust valves off and only removed the lower steering post clamp and then moved the post so there was enough space to remove the valves. Very easy that way

Impossible. You must be talking about the older 800 cfi engine, or the new 800 ho in the rush/switchback chassis. The steering post is not in the same place in those sleds. There was absolutely no way to get it out with that post in place.

Zanne81 · Jan 9, 2017

greasemonkey3406 said:
Impossible. You must be talking about the older 800 cfi engine, or the new 800 ho in the rush/switchback chassis. The steering post is not in the same place in those sleds. There was absolutely no way to get it out with that post in place.

My sled is 2016 155" 2,6" pro rmk and I cleaned my valves a month ago so it's not impossible.. i just pulled the valves to open position with my fingers, then pulled them slightly upwards and they came out pretty easy

stormaren · Jan 10, 2017

Sage Crusher said:
Just for hecks sake - look at your reeds also- and to fully pull the exhaust valves you must pull off the PTO side boot and remove the steering pivot - then you can fully pull the valves all the way out- also Cory ( Boston Racing) told me today that he has a set of the exhaust valve relays go bad not giving full opening.

Do you have any more info about the exhaust valve relays?

Next up, I'm going to grease everything with dielectrical grease.
I will go through the whole electrical system with this stuff pretty much...

skidoo_joa · Jan 16, 2017

Any News?

Dailed In · Jan 17, 2017

06redrevx said:
I have the exact same symptoms, tone changes dramatically when throttle is held wide open. Has anybody had this issue solved with complete TPS settings done? My dealer wants to flash it and I don't have any faith in that. I'm also having issues with my reverse button not working. Why is it so hard for dealers to just train their techs to do TPS settings right, not just a digital wrench quickie!?!

Sounds like the exhaust valves are closing one stage at 100% throttle. I've read that the ecu has parameters that have to be all in check at 100%. If they are not all in check then it drops the valves down one stage. I think this is what you are hearing. It only does this check at 100% throttle. At 99% it does not.

adamg · Jan 17, 2017

Dailed In said:
Sounds like the exhaust valves are closing one stage at 100% throttle. I've read that the ecu has parameters that have to be all in check at 100%. If they are not all in check then it drops the valves down one stage. I think this is what you are hearing. It only does this check at 100% throttle. At 99% it does not.

I would appreciate more detail on this item. If someone follows up and can find out what I would ask the dealer to do / check on my sled for this exhaust valve behavior.

shortstuff · Dec 4, 2017

Any updates on this I'm having same issue. I've checked and adjusted tps base and idle settings twice right on .7 and .940 I haven't checked full throttle voltage yet will do it tonight. Exhaust valves open to all three stages on the stand would really like to get this figured out.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Murph · Dec 4, 2017

shortstuff said:
Any updates on this I'm having same issue. I've checked and adjusted tps base and idle settings twice right on .7 and .940 I haven't checked full throttle voltage yet will do it tonight. Exhaust valves open to all three stages on the stand would really like to get this figured out.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Pop the exhaust cable off actuator and do push /pull test. Confirm the cable is between 16-18mm and not broken.

chrome ckranks · Jan 1, 2018

lucasdegerman said:
Hello need a little bit of help when polaris sweden have no idea...

My pro doesnt pull full rpms when i give 100 % throttle only hit 8000rpm, but if i give 90-95% throttle it will go to 8250, yes 250 rpms more with less throttle,

the dealers in sweden have no idea and polaris here in sweden have no idea, they blame the map, but if it would be the map every machine would do the same i think and they doesnt.. the map is updated to 2017 ecu programming,and it was the same with 2016 map.. it has been since the machine was new.....

If someone have any tips im very happy for that

The reason for the rpm drop is that fuel is added with TPS volt over 4.30.
The reason that TPS shows too high values is most likely to throttle over rotates.
I have seen throttel plates go well over 100% opening. The problem lies in the throttlebody wot stop device that is misaligned

rx1tonofun · Jan 2, 2018

lucasdegerman said:
Hello need a little bit of help when polaris sweden have no idea...

My pro doesnt pull full rpms when i give 100 % throttle only hit 8000rpm, but if i give 90-95% throttle it will go to 8250, yes 250 rpms more with less throttle,

the dealers in sweden have no idea and polaris here in sweden have no idea, they blame the map, but if it would be the map every machine would do the same i think and they doesnt.. the map is updated to 2017 ecu programming,and it was the same with 2016 map.. it has been since the machine was new.....

If someone have any tips im very happy for that

I've had the same problem. My throttle bodies weren't over rotating and my tps was in spec. I threw some injector cleaner in the fuel and it cleared up quite a bit of my problem. I think the injectors are gummed up or dirty to the point they don't atomise the fuel enough and it runs rich at WOT, the fuel is poured in instead of being in a mist. It's cheap and worth a shot. Use injector cleaner not a complete fuel system cleaner.

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Pro rmk 2016 throttle rpm problems help!

Teth-Air

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Sage Crusher

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greasemonkey3406

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Zanne81

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greasemonkey3406

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stormaren

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skidoo_joa

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Dailed In

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adamg

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shortstuff

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chrome ckranks

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