07 m8 missing coolant ?

Look for green juice under the seconday clutch or in the snow under the drivers. I lost a factory hose clamp on my M7 where the left tube in the tunnel connects to the front cooler. Had to pull the track to get the new hose clamp in there because it has a shield riveted over it.

I know that mine will loose a little out the overflow tube when doing a roll-and-go to get unstuck sometimes if its on the mag side too long. If your sure its not leaking i would say there are two options.

1. Somehow you still had an air bubble in the coolant system that worked its way out . I just burped my coolant system after flattening and reinstalling cooler and it emptied the bottle twice before i got all the air out. run it till thermostat opens then put the nose up in the air above the cooler and take the top off collant bottle to burp it out.

2. gasket going south leaking coolant by?? hopefully its #1 or you risk burning it down if its eating coolant

check this recent thread, you might ask backcountryislife for more details on what his symtpoms were but sounds like low end bog with white y pipe and plugs. sled burned down, coolant bottle was empty, he was going to tear into and check for bad gaskets leaking coolant. sounds like pressure testing the case is a good way to check.

nice thats a relatively easyto fix. those rivets are either 5/32 or 3/16. get a drill bit one size bigger than the rivet and drill the head out, should spin the head right off before you get into the hole in the tunnel. might have to hold it on the back side w/ some pliers. you know easiest way to take track off sled w/ mech. reverse?

you need access to the head of the rivet to put new ones back in. I would put them in the way they came out if it were mine anyways so the rivet is expanding on the back of the hose protector piece and not the thin aluminum. might have to pull tank not sure.

Unless your going to pull dd apart for inspection i think its easiest to take apart the break side to remove track. No removing belt, 2ndary, cowling cover, reverse actuator, DD.... Just undo 5 nuts on inside of tunnel that hold brake assembly on. Then from brake side w/ long extension and 16mm socket undo bolt that holds trackshaft to DD output shaft. Take a small punch or screw driver and pry out the punch on the trackshaft nut the holds brake assembly on. (If you cant get the punch out cut it out w/ dremel or you will trash trackshaft threads. Take nut off w/ four point axle spanner socket. May have to pull that shield that is held on by two allen bolts. Now you can slide the entire break assembly off the shaft (may want to undo a few torx screws on belly pan so rotor clears easier). Note the spacer between rotor and bearing. You might get enough slack with track loosened all the way but you need enough slack to push track up and forward so drivers aren't through track windows (I've always taken the skid out, only four bolts) Then Slide trackshaft toward mag side off DD shaft then down and out. Track will fall right out and done.