CLUTCH OUT OF BALANCE???

Carramrod · Sep 24, 2012

http://patrickcustomcarbon.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29791
Cost is 75 per clutch so 150 total to get both your primary and secondary balanced

BIG JOHN · Sep 25, 2012

IMHO..a balanced primary and a trued crank is as good as it gets..the "vibration" at idle is the heavy crank/rubber mounts...NOT clutch "wobble"...( balancing the clutch will help, JUST at 1500 rpm theres an inherent shake to the doo 800R/motor mount sytem...touch the throttle and its smooths right out)...BJ

BTW...a "balanced/blue printed" SBC is = "3/4 race cam"...all "catch phrases" for guys who never built/race cars (parking lot posers)...the most recent build (have a few close car buddies from days by gone) is a 1260 HP Rehr Morrison 605 with the best of the best pro stock componants (with spark plugs out you can almost spin motor by hand by rotating balancer) this motor is a free spinning NA monster (7.90s @ 170 in a 67 chevelle)...anyway...at idle its smooth as silk BUT rocks the car... (back in 1990) my '71 Z28 w/468 was balanced, only made 650 hp and idled in gear at 750 rpm (thank you Smokey Yunik)...smooth BUT rocked the car due to the .720" lift roller cam and solid mounts (thats almost a 3/4" race cam...LOL)...I ran 10.90's @ 125 on DOTs/mufflers 20+ years ago...:face-icon-small-win

sledsrock · Sep 25, 2012

BIG JOHN said:
IMHO..a balanced primary and a trued crank is as good as it gets..the "vibration" at idle is the heavy crank/rubber mounts...NOT clutch "wobble"...BJ

BTW...a "balanced/blue printed" SBC is = "3/4 race cam"...all "catch phrases" for guys who never built/race cars (parking lot posers)...the most recent build (have a few close car buddies from days by gone) is a 1260 HP Rehr Morrison 605 with the best of the best pro stock componants (with spark plugs out you can almost spin motor by hand by rotating balancer) this motor is a free spinning NA monster (7.90s @ 170 in a 67 chevelle)...anyway...at idle its smooth as silk BUT rocks the car... (back in 1990) my '71 Z28 w/468 was balanced, only made 650 hp and idled in gear at 750 rpm (thank you Smokey Yunik)...smooth BUT rocked the car due to the .720" lift roller cam and solid mounts (thats almost a 3/4" race cam...LOL)...I ran 10.90's @ 125 on DOTs/mufflers 20+ years ago...:face-icon-small-win

Is that Minnesooooota air? I ran the same times (10.60's @ 126) at Mile High, with a SBC....man those were some good days, I still miss the best Pro Stock team ever = RMS!

BIG JOHN · Sep 26, 2012

sledsrock said:
Is that Minnesooooota air? I ran the same times (10.60's @ 126) at Mile High, with a SBC....man those were some good days, I still miss the best Pro Stock team ever = RMS!

yes...BUT...did you do this in 1990?...on DOT tires?...through the exaust? ina car that got driven 40-50 miles every saturday night?...alot of race cars can run 10s...go back 20+ years and do it in street legal/driver :face-icon-small-win.....

diamonddave · Sep 26, 2012

BIG JOHN said:
IMHO..a balanced primary and a trued crank is as good as it gets..the "vibration" at idle is the heavy crank/rubber mounts...NOT clutch "wobble"...( balancing the clutch will help, JUST at 1500 rpm theres an inherent shake to the doo 800R/motor mount sytem...touch the throttle and its smooths right out)...BJ

BTW...a "balanced/blue printed" SBC is = "3/4 race cam"...all "catch phrases" for guys who never built/race cars (parking lot posers)...the most recent build (have a few close car buddies from days by gone) is a 1260 HP Rehr Morrison 605 with the best of the best pro stock componants (with spark plugs out you can almost spin motor by hand by rotating balancer) this motor is a free spinning NA monster (7.90s @ 170 in a 67 chevelle)...anyway...at idle its smooth as silk BUT rocks the car... (back in 1990) my '71 Z28 w/468 was balanced, only made 650 hp and idled in gear at 750 rpm (thank you Smokey Yunik)...smooth BUT rocked the car due to the .720" lift roller cam and solid mounts (thats almost a 3/4" race cam...LOL)...I ran 10.90's @ 125 on DOTs/mufflers 20+ years ago...:face-icon-small-win

BJ, If you don't show us a dyno sheet, then it didn't happen...:face-icon-small-win:face-icon-small-win

winter brew · Sep 26, 2012

diamonddave said:
BJ, If you don't show us a dyno sheet, then it didn't happen...:face-icon-small-win:face-icon-small-win

And not one of those "flatlander" dyno sheets either! :rose:

sledsrock · Sep 26, 2012

BIG JOHN said:
yes...BUT...did you do this in 1990?...on DOT tires?...through the exaust? ina car that got driven 40-50 miles every saturday night?...alot of race cars can run 10s...go back 20+ years and do it in street legal/driver :face-icon-small-win.....

1986-1989, drove to the track, ran 10.80's, was out about every weekend on the street......made more $$ on the street than I did working :face-icon-small-hap Did trailer to Denver though.

EDIT - now was I DOT legal......NO not a chance! 'My" DOT version of tires was the 14x32 Eagles with a couple of grooves. Exhaust, yes - if you could call it that....lol. Windows all Lexan, all fiberglass body panels...blah, blah, blah.......best of times for sure. If your car ran those times DOT legal back in the day, then I am very impressed! Another thing - that makes you old like me :face-icon-small-sho

BIG JOHN · Sep 27, 2012

My car weighed 3600 lbs with me in it (not a LW)...M/H DOTs (33/18.50's is all) screwed and set a 7 psi

and skinnys up front...flowmaster 3.5" in/out single chambers (real quiet...lol) the rear had 4.88s/spool/ladder bar set up...1050 holley with a metering block job to drive...8" conv/trans brake/manual valve body TH400 and lightning rods (looked like a lenco...lol)...only fiberglass was a harwood hood with 12" pro stock scoop (had my 6" K/N air clened fitted inside scoop!) and wheel well opening for big tires (looked stock)...cage, fire extinguisher, helmet and jacket in the car... she was all black/limo tint windows...16 gal cell...110 race was a CRAZY $3.50 a gallon...cost me $40/$50 to top her off for cruising...spent evry dime I made on that car...was the best of times...had "the rep" in the twin cities as the "car the beat" on the street for almost 4 years...walked tall for a knuckle dragger...lol...dont get me started on my "antics" as the street race instagator along with my starting line flashlight trick that won me $$ at $100 a race...:face-icon-small-win...just saying...BJ

Macke · Sep 29, 2012

I just got my clutch back from balancing, (11 etec 800), it was only out of balance by 2 grams?! I almost hoped for more so there would be a noticable?? diffrence before/after... But feels great to know that my engine have had à good life untill now and i have the pice of mind knowing its ok!

sledsrock · Sep 29, 2012

Macke said:
I just got my clutch back from balancing, (11 etec 800), it was only out of balance by 2 grams?! I almost hoped for more so there would be a noticable?? diffrence before/after... But feels great to know that my engine have had à good life untill now and i have the pice of mind knowing its ok!

Who did the balance? Was that both sheaves total 2 gms?

Macke · Sep 30, 2012

Yes it was the complete assambly, i weighted the arms and ramps to zero diffrence before i sent it in (0,3g between the heaviest/lightest ramp and the same with the arms).
The guy ho did it have balanced engine parts and worked with engines for st least 20 years so he knows hus stuff. It was drilled 6 holes on it, about 2-3mm deep ~8-10mm drill. Looks like more them 2g to me?
Anyway, waiting for parts so havens had à chanche to rum it yet, have put on rs rubber mounts on the pto side so i hope it will be smoother then before...

DLynn · Oct 1, 2013

winter brew said:
If you get your clutch balanced, make sure sure it's in PERFECT condition before you send it....especially TRA's, they ALL need parts at least every 1500 miles, sometimes less. No sense in trying to apply precise measurements to a loose, wobbly assembly.

This hit the nail on the head. I get clutch's in all the time that the owner states are maintained perfectly and ready to balance. This is all fine however as a clutch wears the balance changes. Virtually every time we find worn parts in most all clutch's. Skidoo clutch's are the worst for changing due to wear.
Balancing a clutch should be a maintenance item. Just like tires, as they wear they become unbalanced. It's your crank that bears the brunt of a unbalanced clutch.

ttreewalkerr · Oct 6, 2013

Red-eye said:
Yes many times and I call bull!

Posted from Snowestonline.com App for Android

DLynn · Oct 2, 2014

I am glad to see more balancers are using a mandrels to hold the clutch. We have been balancing this way from the very beginning. We us a actual factory clutch bolt for each type of clutch we balance also. Putting a small rod through the middle of a clutch does nothing. It is basically imposable to correctly find the center line of the clutch working with cones slid in from each end. First you have to know centerline and then how much mass is off center. Clutch balancing is a critical part of your overall motor health. It changes over time and just because it was balanced (kind of) at the factory doesn't mean it is still balanced today. We typically find new clutch's that are all over the boards. Skidoo are the most inconsistent with A/C and then Polaris. Skidoo are great clutch's however they do require some attention.
As RPM increases the unbalance also increases creating more force that is transferred to the crank and the bearings. Anything you can do to help eliminate this force will add life to your motor. If you have any questions give us or the other shops of your choice a call to discuss your specific clutch.

Search

CLUTCH OUT OF BALANCE???

Carramrod

Well-known member

BIG JOHN

Well-known member

sledsrock

Well-known member

BIG JOHN

Well-known member

diamonddave

Chilly’s Mentor

winter brew

Premium Member

sledsrock

Well-known member

BIG JOHN

Well-known member

Macke

Free Member

sledsrock

Well-known member

Macke

Free Member

DLynn

Free Member

ttreewalkerr

Free Member

DLynn

Free Member

Similar threads