After welding one end up with tube inside never distorted tubing
Coolant heated handle bars
- Thread starter M5-
- Start date
After welding one end up with tube inside never distorted tubing
S
Just received Raze bars, very nice setup!
I just received the raze setup and I’m very impressed so far with engineering and quality of product. Although I have not installed yet I feel like they are a great value considering you are getting a new set of pro taper bars/$80, billet aluminum thermostat/$120 and all the fitments to make your bike bars heated/$100ish for AME grips. I found a discount code from October which they honored and they only set me back $400 with free shipping. I planned on adding a thermostat anyway and I’m thrilled I won’t have electric grips pulling juice from my battery all day. From everything I’ve read and seen on YouTube it appears they are a must have and work very well. This game isn’t cheap but boy is it sure loads of fun! I was also told if I add the wingman ECU at a later date I would get discount due to already having their thermostat. I’ll likely wait for an ECU upgrade as I have heard great things about the PR-2 as well. I’m leaning towards buying an air intake with a fitting for nitrous just in case I want to add in the future. So many choices!
I just received the raze setup and I’m very impressed so far with engineering and quality of product. Although I have not installed yet I feel like they are a great value considering you are getting a new set of pro taper bars/$80, billet aluminum thermostat/$120 and all the fitments to make your bike bars heated/$100ish for AME grips. I found a discount code from October which they honored and they only set me back $400 with free shipping. I planned on adding a thermostat anyway and I’m thrilled I won’t have electric grips pulling juice from my battery all day. From everything I’ve read and seen on YouTube it appears they are a must have and work very well. This game isn’t cheap but boy is it sure loads of fun! I was also told if I add the wingman ECU at a later date I would get discount due to already having their thermostat. I’ll likely wait for an ECU upgrade as I have heard great things about the PR-2 as well. I’m leaning towards buying an air intake with a fitting for nitrous just in case I want to add in the future. So many choices!
Thats a good deal! I would of just bought the raze kit as well for that price but up here i know last season the raze kit was around $700 with a t-stat and i think another $100 off without
S
JRusher
Awesome post, Im going to try this! How did you fill the center? You said epoxy or high temp silicone... How do you get it into the middle? Thanks
Awesome post, Im going to try this! How did you fill the center? You said epoxy or high temp silicone... How do you get it into the middle? Thanks
S
This sounds great. I just have one question the bypass on the thermostat is supposed to go back to the engine to keep the temps up on cold days so if we take this heat for our bars what do u use for the motor. Can you put a tee in the bypass or?
M
I haven't done mine yet but some kind of bypass bypass via a tee otherwise you won't be able to shut off the bar heat.
M5
M5
M
Could you instead use household sink supply lines from the bathroom section of your local hardware store to hook up the system? They are much cheaper than brake line hose and fittings and are available premade at various lengths.
Type AN and JIC 37 degree fittings are dimensionally the same, but only vary in tolerances, which should not matter at these relatively low pressures (28psi) and temperatures. Most hardware plumbing sizes are based on JIC 45 degree but as long as all the fittings match it would seem that a hot water sink, braided supply line would hold the temperatures and pressures of a typical moto cooling system.
Here is an informative article if anyone is interested:
http://www.valvers.com/engineering/an-and-jic-fittings/
M
I think those lines might be too bulky.
M5
M5
Unbelievable , that explains a product out there that I've noticed in very limited supply on the shelves at certain hydraulic places and some automotive joints but has been around since I can remember ever walking into a hot rod store . These fittings are supper light and reusable .
That is a very informative article , thxs
I think the stainless sink lines would work fine......
I’m going to make an attempt.
M
Yes, that's my point about the overkill with hoses... If a JIC 37 degree taper on the fitting is intended for high pressures of 2000 psi + then why can't the braided sink supply lines of 45 degree taper suffice on our max. 28 psi radiators? - as long as the lines are routed flexibly enough to allow free movement of your handlebars it should work.
Post a few photos if you get a set made up.
Post a few photos if you get a set made up.
N
I think this is getting way over thought. Some wps 12-7130, wps 22-0061cl or mcmaster 52375k12 and some brass barbed fittings along with o-ringed aluminum plugs from your local machine shop and bam you have heated bars. Ive thought about throwing together a simple kit like this but running into the issue of not all bar ends are the same I.D.
the bars are about an inch taller than stock (at least on my Husky) so you'll save another $75 or so not having to buy risers. Not bad!
M
I think the problem is: without raising your bars, there is precious little room left for clearance to fittings. Unless the fittings are elbows mounted further back they will cause the hose to protrude into the back of the number plate.
Who rides a snowbike without bar risers?
Anyone?
Every snowbike i’ve Seen has them..... FWIW
M
I've only had one ride so far (last year). Have not yet installed the kit. Just arrived today so I am all ears as to the correct set up. Just curious, it might be a stupid question but why is it so necessary to have bar risers?
Body position.
Bike center of mass is moved back by the kits weight.
I definitely like riding with them.
