Riding tip suggestions: Going from the M-Series Chassis to the 2018 Ascender chassis

Stack · Dec 30, 2017

Ok so I have both sleds now, got a little logging road riding time on the 18 last spring as I purchased an ER M8000 SP. I’m super comfortable riding my 10 M8 after all these years, it’s performance and mannerisms are just predictable to me, but getting on the 18 I feel like a complete newbie to snowmobiling.

I upgraded the front shocks and the rear track shock to the mountain cat QS3’s over the summer, the center shock is the standard coil over for now. Based on feedback here I just lowered the pressures on the front ski shocks from 75 down to 60 and the rear track shock down to 140. I’ll play around with setting 2 on the trail and 1 in the powder, hopefully tomorrow a little test and tune time to see the impact the shock adjustments had. The front end has felt a bit twitchy to me, not quite as stable as I’d like.

Anyway I’m still trying to ride/muscle this thing like my 10 M-series, which I know is totally incorrect, and trust me I feel it when riding the sled that way. Any pointers to help get more comfortable on this new platform would be appreciated! It straight climbs excellent and is stable/planted in that regard, it’s the technical stuff, tight climbs through trees and properly getting the sled on its side (not trying to muscle it over) that I’m struggling with a bit.

Side note; does anyone find the stock bar riser to be a bit short? I’m 6ft and the 4.5 inch stock riser seems a short. I’m prob one of a few that miss the adjustable height bars that are only on the High Country now!

Thanks guys, your feedback is appreciated!

-John

kiliki · Dec 30, 2017

I'm 6 ft tall also go with a 5.5 inch Riser stand forward in the pocket closer to the bars change the factory skis to grippers skis and put a can and a muff pot on it

Stack · Dec 31, 2017

kiliki said:
I'm 6 ft tall also go with a 5.5 inch Riser stand forward in the pocket closer to the bars change the factory skis to grippers skis and put a can and a muff pot on it

Thanks for the feedback, funny I was looking at a 5.5 riser yesterday at the dealer and it seems like it will put the bars in a good spot. I will try to stand a bit more forward, I did notice that seemed more comfortable, just have to break some habits from the old chassis!

Thanks!

Stack

Old & slow · Dec 31, 2017

Stack said:
Ok so I have both sleds now, got a little logging road riding time on the 18 last spring as I purchased an ER M8000 SP. I’m super comfortable riding my 10 M8 after all these years, it’s performance and mannerisms are just predictable to me, but getting on the 18 I feel like a complete newbie to snowmobiling.

I upgraded the front shocks and the rear track shock to the mountain cat QS3’s over the summer, the center shock is the standard coil over for now. Based on feedback here I just lowered the pressures on the front ski shocks from 75 down to 60 and the rear track shock down to 140. I’ll play around with setting 2 on the trail and 1 in the powder, hopefully tomorrow a little test and tune time to see the impact the shock adjustments had. The front end has felt a bit twitchy to me, not quite as stable as I’d like.

Anyway I’m still trying to ride/muscle this thing like my 10 M-series, which I know is totally incorrect, and trust me I feel it when riding the sled that way. Any pointers to help get more comfortable on this new platform would be appreciated! It straight climbs excellent and is stable/planted in that regard, it’s the technical stuff, tight climbs through trees and properly getting the sled on its side (not trying to muscle it over) that I’m struggling with a bit.

Side note; does anyone find the stock bar riser to be a bit short? I’m 6ft and the 4.5 inch stock riser seems a short. I’m prob one of a few that miss the adjustable height bars that are only on the High Country now!

Thanks guys, your feedback is appreciated!

-John

The suspension set up is critical on the Pro-climb or Assender chassis. At 75 psi in the front you will fight that sled all day, 60 is closer to where you will end up. As you get close to where your happy just a couple psi will make a difference. Remember to adjust the psi with no load on the shock. The skis and or alignment will give the twitchy feel Grippers will help with that. It takes seat time to get totally comfortable and that varies as we are all different. I rode the Assender last spring and adapted with in a few minutes. The more I rode it my confidence grew to where I was totally comfortable and doing more technical riding than with my own 16 Proclimb. That only took a couple hours. The transition from my M to the Proclimb was not as easy, it took time and I found that getting the suspension set where your comfortable speeds it up. The M series is a stable predictable sled, it just take a lot more rider input. The Assender is considerably better with way less rider fatigue. As far as the riser I too am 6' and found it to short and ended up with the 6" riser.

M8onEdge · Dec 31, 2017

I think seat time and patience is the key. I came off an 09 and 10 M8. Wasn't sold on my '14 Proclimb for two or three rides. Gripper ski's and lightweight can helped the nose dive problem. As you know you have to adapt to any sled. I don't own an ascender but I've spent most of a day on one and couldn't see much difference from my '17 MC. Less rider input required, far better steering than the m's, very similar predictable feel on edge. Honestly I can't see it taking more than a few rides and you'll like it far better. I would stick with the Ascender and not switch back and forth to speed the transition. Far more capable and easy to ride than the M's. I do a lot of jumping back and forth to Axys and a year on an Xm and eval. rides on the G4. They all just take time to adjust to before auto pilot takes over. The Ascender/Proclimb chassis is the most forgiving and stable very much like the m-series. If you think this is tough don't go and buy a G-4!!

Stack · Dec 31, 2017

Guys this is all great feedback, I really appreciate it, I had next to no time on a proclimb/Ascender before this so it is totally new. I have many Pros about the sled so far, and look forward to continue dialing it in. Picked up the riser this morning, and plan on getting out there tomorrow again.

-Stack

bopper · Dec 31, 2017

you have to learn to relax on it, it doesn't need much input try just standing on it with a foot on each running board and counter steer and lean to learn how it reacts. unless its a steep sidehill you really don't have to hang off one side or the other.

I run more shock pressure then old & slow however with 80 in my fronts

slyrydr · Dec 31, 2017

suspension set-up is very important....180 lb, good rider but no jumping (me), i settled on 50 lbs in the ski shocks, 130 in the rr, still playing with the rf shock, but 45-50 seems about right....lots of people tout the gripper (price point maybe), i like the mohawk because it turns easier than stock and carves in the powder so much better than the too long stock ski (hear that cat ?)...keeping my weight forward compared to my m sleds is important, a little uncomfortable at first, but you'll find home soon enough...be aware of monkey butting, letting your rear end hang out to the side and back when doing tree riding, it brings your weight and center of gravity too far to the rear, puts too much strain on arms and shoulders, wears you out, especially later in the day...i'm also 6', but high risers mean you have to move them too far from side to side as you're maneuvering, stock risers at my height seem about right for my upper body strength, balance is more important than raw muscle, witness Bret Rasmussen, certainly not a muscle man, but who can outride most...i use a ti can for weight reduction, belt drive for drivetrain response and easy gear selection....no substitute for riding time....experiment especially with weight placement and balance on easier terrain until you have improved technique....anyway, my $ .o2

cpa · Jan 1, 2018

The best advice I could give you to make the switch is keep your feet on each side. No need to get on one side anymore. If you do you will end up pulling it over on yourself. Also keep your feet way further forward than you would on your M. Just like everyone else has said also...get some grippers. My first ride back in 2012 on my first Proclimb I felt like a fish out of water after years on an M. After about 2 rides though I never wanted to ever have to ride an M again. The 2012 was terrible compared to the 18 too. Just give it a couple rides and you will be amazed how you ever rode your m for so long.

Dam Dave · Jan 1, 2018

cpa said:
The best advice I could give you to make the switch is keep your feet on each side. No need to get on one side anymore. If you do you will end up pulling it over on yourself. Also keep your feet way further forward than you would on your M. Just like everyone else has said also...get some grippers. My first ride back in 2012 on my first Proclimb I felt like a fish out of water after years on an M. After about 2 rides though I never wanted to ever have to ride an M again. The 2012 was terrible compared to the 18 too. Just give it a couple rides and you will be amazed how you ever rode your m for so long.

yep, sound advise, very soon you will never ride that M again lol

goridedoo · Jan 1, 2018

Spin donuts both ways in a meadow till your dizzy. Repeat. You'll be rippin in the trees in no time.

CB.8 · Jan 1, 2018

Give it 300 miles. It was a light bulb. One day it just worked.

ultrasks700 · Jan 2, 2018

Im glad im not the only one...
I just upgraded from a 2010 M8 to the 18 Mountain Cat. So far I've been impressed but the season is still early and we haven't seen and deep snow conditions here in the northeast. I've noticed already how the sled gets up on the snow and it defiantly has way more pull than the M. I'm not a fan of skis and I'm going to try my old Powder Pros as I kept them off my old sled, if I don't like them I can always go back. I feel the stock clutching is a little bland, but I'm going to give it a season before I make any changes. I like the sled, but I just need more seat time

sno*jet · Jan 2, 2018

may people who ride these for the first time flop them over a lot. the chassis has good balance but it has a tipping point that is sudden. ive always sidehilled it with a foot out. for slow technical stuff its a must imo. or you will roll it too far and mess your line. its amazing how slow you can go doing this, i tell peeps to just walk it along like this, you dont have to be into the gas hard riding a bucking bronco. the 3" and the dropped case will keep it chuggin along, its not at all like an old pro where you keep the track spinning mach10 and just lean a little bit here and there, i hang off this sled and take er slower until the hill opens up. i have a 162, a 153 maybe a little more gas needed some times. i practiced riding on 1 ski in the yard and it helped me, also adjusting my riser/bars and shocks while doing so.

Stack · Jan 3, 2018

goridedoo said:
Spin donuts both ways in a meadow till your dizzy. Repeat. You'll be rippin in the trees in no time.

Haha, nice!

Qreiff · Jan 12, 2018

Yup Stack, I'm in the same boat. Came off a M-series and now have an '18 Snow Check 162.

I'm 48, very experienced, aggressive rider and I'm not comfortable yet on this sled as well. I too have a 5.5" riser delivering today. Shock set up is crucial and with the low snow conditions we've experienced here in Colorado and southern Wyo, I just haven't felt comfortable pushing the sled yet.

Great advise above. I too will stand tighter in the "stirrups" and get out and tear some donuts!

Sled is awesome. I know it's just me that is the problem.

Q

Fish10782 · Jan 13, 2018

I also am struggling to ride this machine. If leaning too much one way or the other the machine dives that direction. Once it dives that way, I can't bring it back unless I throttle out of it. Really feel like I am fighting it the whole time. It's not enjoyable. My 14 with the new front end doesn't do this. The difference must be the chain case drop and roll.

M8onEdge · Jan 14, 2018

Fish10782 said:
I also am struggling to ride this machine. If leaning too much one way or the other the machine dives that direction. Once it dives that way, I can't bring it back unless I throttle out of it. Really feel like I am fighting it the whole time. It's not enjoyable. My 14 with the new front end doesn't do this. The difference must be the chain case drop and roll.

Interesting comment. I don't have an ascender but a '17 mountain cat which is essentially the same chassis. I've found the same thing you described and it does feel different from my '14 and '15 proclimb. Not sure what to do about it. I prefer the skis in the wide position and switched to grippers but that didn't remedy the nose dive feel on downhill off camber slopes like it did on the prior proclimbs.

MountainCat1 · Jan 14, 2018

ME2

M8onEdge said:
Interesting comment. I don't have an ascender but a '17 mountain cat which is essentially the same chassis. I've found the same thing you described and it does feel different from my '14 and '15 proclimb. Not sure what to do about it. I prefer the skis in the wide position and switched to grippers but that didn't remedy the nose dive feel on downhill off camber slopes like it did on the prior proclimbs.

'17 Mountain Cat here as well, that dives; just changed to Grippers set @ 37.5" stance; Was hopping that would eliminate the dive.:face-icon-small-sad Haven't ridden it with the Grippers. An AC dealer once told me that R&D test riders intended the front skid to be located in the upper/forward mounting hole so that the front-end didn't dive to the right or left. I have not tried that relocation yet, as first I wanted to get the shock set-up right for me. Has anyone else ever heard of such a change; there has never been a thread on that topic here that I'm aware of???

M8onEdge · Jan 14, 2018

MountainCat1 said:
'17 Mountain Cat here as well, that dives; just changed to Grippers set @ 37.5" stance; Was hopping that would eliminate the dive.:face-icon-small-sad Haven't ridden it with the Grippers. An AC dealer once told me that R&D test riders intended the front skid to be located in the upper/forward mounting hole so that the front-end didn't dive to the right or left. I have not tried that relocation yet, as first I wanted to get the shock set-up right for me. Has anyone else ever heard of such a change; there has never been a thread on that topic here that I'm aware of???

Thanks! Maybe I'll give that a try.

Riding tip suggestions: Going from the M-Series Chassis to the 2018 Ascender chassis

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Skidoo hill crew

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Similar threads