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Handling

sledhead_79

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Had a 2016 M8000 Limited 153 in our group today. He’s fairly new to Mtn riding and a smaller guy. This thing was trenching and wouldn’t lay over for him in the snow. I jumped on it to assist him in turning it around and holy crap, it’s a tank. I asked him how stiff his Fox shocks were and he said he bled them down a little.

Where can we start to get the sled to lay over in the snow? I’m gonna say he’s probably 125-130lbs, what’s recommended for pressure on front shocks? Anyone else notice the trenching of the 153 x 3” that Cat has on this sled? We fought all day trying to get this thing up on top of the snow.

Open to all suggestions to make this thing more boonedocker friendly.
 
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Old & slow

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Had a 2016 M8000 Limited 153 in our group today. He’s fairly new to Mtn riding and a smaller guy. This thing was trenching and wouldn’t lay over for him in the snow. I jumped on it to assist him in turning it around and holy crap, it’s a tank. I asked him how stiff his Fox shocks were and he said he bled them down a little.

Where can we start to get the sled to lay over in the snow? I’m gonna say he’s probably 125-130lbs, what’s recommended for pressure on front shocks? Anyone else notice the trenching of the 153 x 3” that Cat has on this sled? We fought all day trying to get this thing up on top of the snow.

Open to all suggestions to make this thing more boonedocker friendly.

Adjusting the shock pressure will stop the trenching and help the handling. Try adjusting the ski stance narrower that also makes big changes to handling. I run 60/100 on the skis and front skid and 125/145 on the rear. I am considerably heaver i think my pack my be heavier lol. So he may have to try different settings, stock is way to stiff imho. Make sure you adjust the pressure with no load and the temp as close to riding conditions as possible. Set up properly the 16 is a very capable sled.
 

kiliki

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one big step other than the stuff listed above is cat use a 7T drive shaft. you can put in any 8t drive shaft from 12 to 17 and this will help the trenching a lot. you can find them used for about 100.00
 

Frostbite

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That's too bad. I always wish for success for guys like that because a couple of bad experiences like this could make them walk away from sledding.

Are the limiter straps all the way out?

What's the clutch engagement RPM?

I am wondering what his belt to sheave distance is on the primary?

Because if the clutch is slamming in and is a t too high of an RPM, that's a recipe for disaster in the deep stuff.

What skis is he using? Is the front end not floating at all?

I have a 153 x 3" and it wasn't until I added the longer Mountain Cat chain case and 8 tooth drivers that it really started floating well.
 

snoballssnoglory

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Our group has been through this. Saw even the 162 trenching terrible. Tuned shocks and 8 tooth drivers fixed! Also grippers are gonna be a very valuable upgrade to his experience!


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sno*jet

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id try like 40 in the front shocks, leave the evol up around 120 for bottoming. dont go too soft on the rear track shock if youguys climb a lot. when they wheely, they start to trench. try riding with bars forward- straight vertical. stay up front on this machine and keep it on one ski. slp or polaris skis will make that much easier to predict. if the 17 standard Ms really have taller gearing than the 16s, i would def do the 17 gearing. as the 17LTD i hop on once in a while impresses me next to my mountain cat. not a huge diff.
 

boondocker97

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I would be leery to go anything less than 60 in the front shocks. Too low and the front of the sled is no longer being supported as it should. Low pressure settings can make the sled feel more rolly-polly rocking the sled back and forth and make the sled lean easier initially, but it's not helping to get the sled up on edge. Counter steering a little more will get the ski to cut in under the sled and keeping the pressure at a reasonable level will hold it up out of the snow. A submarine front end is not going to help get the sled up out of the snow.
 

sno*jet

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i love it rolly polly.
hey kiliki, thats the first i heard that. im gonna look at my buddies and see. there was a gentleman on here all year sayin the 7 tooth 3" models came with 21/49 gearing for '17..?
 

line8

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Maybe I can add to the knowledge and some confusion. Ive had my fair share of the tank feeling in the proclimb. One thing for sure, and its exactly what is being tossed around here, is proper set up and I don’t think there is 1 or even 2 that are the single “bests”. And to make it even a bit more of a challenge, each rider has certain things they like to feel or how they ride. Its a combinations of some things, to include how to ride the proclimb.

When I got my 14, it was just a tank. Not happy with it at all! I put on the 16 spindles but left the 38” stance. That alone was good, but, grippers helped a ton for me, in all riding types and conditions.
Trenching was a big problem also and if I wasn’t carrying speed in deeper snow, up came the front and down went the back.
I got the rear shock replaced with an evol and revalved and the 2 fronts revalved. Then I fiddled with shock settings. Ive come to rest with about 64-67 on the ski shocks, the rear track shock 135/155evol and the front track shock with about 1/4” of the threads showing and limiter all the way out. This for me at about 205lbs works best in 15” + of snow. With the front shocks like that, the trail or road ride can be a bit of a handful in corners until you get a feel for it. In very deep snow, 4’ +, I’m not sure about these settings. It does not trench at all but I might try the ski shocks with a bit more in them-it’s wobbly(rolly-polly ^^) at 64lbs and I found myself with the tank feeling again. These things made the biggest changes for me, then some other creature comforts were added to make it better but really weren’t in the needed category. Not much different than what has already been said.


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kiliki

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i love it rolly polly.
hey kiliki, thats the first i heard that. im gonna look at my buddies and see. there was a gentleman on here all year sayin the 7 tooth 3" models came with 21/49 gearing for '17..?

not that I have found in 16 with a 3" 7t came with 19/50 in 17 you could only get a 3" in MC that i know of and it had 8t with 19/50.
I have a 16 snopro and it had 19/50 my buddy snow checked a 16 with me and he pick up the LTD. I changed the gears out with him and put in 21/49 and took out the 19/50
looked in the parts fisch and could not find one with 21/49 as an option.
FWIW the 16 LTD with the 7t makes the deepest trench you could ever believe. when I put the 3" on my 16 with the 8t it is almost like the 17 MC in the way it climbs out of the snow.
 
M
Oct 4, 2015
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'16 LTD set-up

I went sledding with friends last Sunday in good mountain snow. A beginning rider fought his '16 M8000 153 LTD stock with the 3" PC track; Some of his difficulties were a lack of experience,but it's hard to learn when you get frustrated & tired riding an ill-handling sled. I would like to help him get the sled set-up correctly for him. He is much bigger than I am, so I'm not sure of starting shock pressures. He is about 300lbs without gear & in shape! Any advice from you bigger guys on FSS/EVOL, FTS/EVOL, RTS/EVOL/Rebound adjuster pressures would be great. Thanks.
 

sno*jet

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he should be on a 162. wonder what the dealer would charge him to trade up to a 17 162 MC. ill keep repeating, i think mohawk skis are much better fit on this sled, less dive, more predictable. the stock runners are such cutters. hook or dive.. theres no parabolic design in the keel for forgiveness like a nice proven ski. not much rocker in the bottoms either. and then those wide tips...
clown shoes basically:face-icon-small-ton
 
M
Oct 4, 2015
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Thanks sno-jet, but it is his first sled & I don't think there is money on the table for a trade; He is also determined to get it set up right. Surely, he isn't the first big guy to ride a 153.
 

catzr

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handling

I am on my 3rd season still learning how to ride the 16 LTD 153.
Using MDS weights and a Pol. black sprg. I think help alot. Engagement and
clutch control is great. I have spent alot of time with the shocks. I am 5 11
170lbs. skis at 80/140, seems like less than 80 the front dives to much.
Track front 60/110 rides better, 75/110 transfers better. Track rear120/150
is a happy medium. Hope that helps
 

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Had a 2016 M8000 Limited 153 in our group today. He’s fairly new to Mtn riding and a smaller guy. This thing was trenching and wouldn’t lay over for him in the snow. I jumped on it to assist him in turning it around and holy crap, it’s a tank. I asked him how stiff his Fox shocks were and he said he bled them down a little.

Where can we start to get the sled to lay over in the snow? I’m gonna say he’s probably 125-130lbs, what’s recommended for pressure on front shocks? Anyone else notice the trenching of the 153 x 3” that Cat has on this sled? We fought all day trying to get this thing up on top of the snow.

Open to all suggestions to make this thing more boonedocker friendly.

Heres a short vid of how easy the sled can roll over. Its with our 365 kit with the floats set to 90psi the Doo has the stock shocks with them set to the 3rd position(basically set to so it doesn't feel like it wants to dive and throw you off)
It basically takes no real effort to initiate being on edge.

Allan

https://youtu.be/0BURnV0JYTI
 

BoboS

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I’m new to powder riding so I don’t know that much. I traded my ‘15 trail sled for a ‘17 M8000 153” that had the 2.25 factory track. I changed it out to the 3” Power Claw and that required the 7 tooth driver for clearance. Just came back from Wyoming for the first time on this sled and it was awesome in the powder! No trenching. I way about 170 lbs.


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