2002 edge xc sp 800 rebuild.

If you are serious about doing a rebuild, you also should replace the two bearings at each end of the crankshaft, and drill out the omitted oil drain hole below the left side (looking forward) below the PTO piston, in the upper crankcase casing. You drill a 1/4" diameter angled hole over to the outer PTO bearing, in order to get some oil vapor circulating around that bearing. The bearings can be pried off with a screwdriver, and then a gear puller can take them off the rest of the way. Be sure and get the spacers back where you found them. Heating up the center ring of the bearing may expedite the job.


While you are tearing things apart, rebuild the fuel pump too because that will help it start on the first pull instead of the tenth pull.

Those EBAY kits with pistons, rings and gaskets, are way overpriced. Also go with the metal gasket at the base of the cylinders because they are reusable. The O-rings around the piston, in the cylinder top, are special high temperature type. Do not substitute anything else. Hold those in place with grease to keep them in their groove, otherwise they tend to slide out when you set the cylinder head down on the cylinders.

eBay is good for used parts (non-wear items and stuff you can't get new), I wouldn't rebuild a motor with parts from there though. Not sure how bad it is for these particular parts, but there is some stuff on there that's lowest-grade-possible knock-off parts. One thing to keep in mind, Wiseco pistons are forged, and you want to make sure you follow their setup instructions and clearances (not the service manual, if it gives something different). If you want to start an argument among snowmobile engine builders, ask them if you should run Wisecos! Some guys love them and have great success, others point to blown motor after blown motor. Never run a set myself, but it makes for interesting reading – what I gather is that they are a great piston, but you want to make sure they're set up right. Also, they expand more than cast, so warm-up is especially critical.

OE bearings are going to be KOYO or NTN. You can find them by size/type if you know the right supplier, but that's pretty tricky. On the other hand, it looks like they're still available through Polaris. For the rod bearing, some piston kits come with a bearing, and you should be ok with that. It may not be OE quality though. If it doesn't come with, I'd buy it from Polaris. They're $20/ea, where the cheap ones are around $10 – not a place I'd try to save $20. The crank bearings are a more complicated story. It would be a good idea to check the runout before you do anything else; I've got an 800 sitting around that was running when it was pulled, but the runout measured at .015 (FSM says no more than .004), so assuming it's ok is a big roll of the dice. If it's out of spec, then you'll want to send it to someone to replace all the bearings and put it back to true. If it checks out but one or more of the outer bearings feels rough or has excessive play, then you could replace the questionable bearing(s) if you have the appropriate pullers (or take it to a machine shop). The 800s tended to have crank problems, and you'll want to at least make sure you're starting off from a healthy starting point, especially if you want to build more power.

There were a few companies that made single and twin pipes for these, and I think SLP may still have one or both still available. I'd give them a call if you're looking for something new. Pipes off an '03 SKS should fit, although I'm not 100% sure of the interchange – the safest bet is to get the part numbers and call the manufacturer. Make sure you get all the pieces if you buy used; the pipes alone are useless. Most reports are that twin pipes give you the biggest power boost if you can tune them right, but tend to make the engine a lot more sensitive to elevation, temperature, and such. There's plenty of discussion if you search through old threads here, so I'd look through that before you commit to one or the other. It also wouldn't hurt to wait until you've got the engine up and running right before you move away from stock.

No point in buying new pipes. There are plenty of used pipes for sale, like from the parts supplier in Cle Elum Washington, who advertises on craigslist. Crank bearings can be removed by hand, when you intend to remove both bearings from an end. You do your prying off the piston rod pin end that goes through the counterweight. Or pry between bearings, since you will be replacing both of them. You don't need the double bearing. Drill in that omitted oil lube hole and change out the PTO bearings and you will be good to go.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/snw/d/snowmobile-parts-for-all-brands/6826963674.html

I don't have any pictures of the hole. If you look down on the top of the crankcase, you will see one hole on each side of the MAG piston opening, but you will only see hole on the interior side of the PTO piston opening. Which makes it real easy to figure out where to start that hole on the opposite side of the PTO piston opening. Then you angle that hole in line with the crankshaft and angled toward the top of the end PTO bearing.

You can also clean up your pistons and cylinder walls by getting a 3M Scotch Brite abrasive disc at ABOY Plumbing, cutting it back to slightly larger than the cylinder opening, (diameter plus 3/4"), and shine the cylinder walls up. Same for the piston walls. It really smooths up the engine noise, removes corrosion, and stops piston scratches from doing more damage.

Good call on sending the crank out. We all have to cut corners now and then, but $500 or so on the bottom end could make the difference between a sled that you can run hard for years and one that blows up on you. As for the pipes, $300 isn't a crazy cheap price. Could be someone bought them and changed their mind or never got around to putting them on, and there just aren't that many of us working on these older sleds. New single pipe sets are $650 from SLP, but they're probably a slow seller. Plenty of part-outs going on, and there are just more pipes out there than people looking for them. So, could definitely be legitimate, but make sure to sound out the seller as always.

Indy Specialties does good work; I've had a crank done by Northern Crankshaft, and they do good work too. I know people talk about align honing the crankcase on those too, but I'm not sure if that's generally recommended or over-rated. I'd talk with whoever you send it to, it may not cost much more to send the whole crankcase assembly and have them prep it. As for the carbs, someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought all the VES 800s came with TM40 flat-slide carbs. So I have to wonder where the round slides came from – seems sketchy, and most VM (round slide) carbs out there are 34 or 38mm, which would be undersize. I'd recommend finding a set of TM40s.

I've always run Polaris springs, they seem to last pretty well, and if you don't know exactly what you're doing, buying the OE springs will give you a good starting point. You could also look into buying a clutch kit from SLP or EPI (there may be others), but you'd want to do some research and see if you can find reports on those before you buy. On my sled, I started off with new OE springs and went through the primary and secondary, using the stock weights and helix. Then I added SLP Magnum Force adjustable weights last year. This year, in addition to having my primary serviced by Indy Specialties (they fine balance and true the sheaves, which even on a brand new clutch can be less than ideal), I put in an SLP mountain progressive helix. I'm real happy with the setup, although I'm sure it could still use some tweaking.

I'm just trying to give you an idea of how I approached it, not recommending any particular brand or setup. Talking to guys who've been doing this for much longer than me, I get the feeling that kits aren't usually the way to clutching nirvana. I'd bet you'll get better results starting with the setup straight out of the service manual and making one change at a time; you might have to back-track a time or two, but it'll probably be the difference between a sled that works ok and one that's dialed in for your engine, riding conditions, and riding style.

If I was going to put some real money into an 800 Edge, I would start with an 04 or 05 Vertical Escape with a 159" track. They have reverse, longer track, better shocks, lighter weight, better hood design and they are a collector's item. 02's are a dime a dozen because they don't have reverse, weigh a ton, clunky skis, cheap shocks and get stuck much easier than the 159. I have owned both and still own 2 - 04's. I will even sell you one.