F
I think the relay are 05 only!!!
INFO on CFI sleds Chassis Power Connectors, Relays and Grounds
- Thread starter mountainhorse
- Start date
R
AR274 relay
The AR274 relay is the wrong one it will fry your computer.
05- 06 polaris RMK stock relay are the same part number.
Rob
The AR274 relay is the wrong one it will fry your computer.
05- 06 polaris RMK stock relay are the same part number.
Rob
R
I moved this from another post so I didnt hyjack it! :face-icon-small-win
The Chassis Power Capacitor, a 28000uF capacitor is mounted next to the ECU in front of the fuel tank tank on the 2005 -2006 Cfi's. (it is riveted to the bracket) and is located on the beltguard, under the cover mounted to the regualtor on the 2007 - 2009 RMK's. #3 in the pic at the bottom. can have problems and cause fuel pressure fluctions as well as ECU issues that are related to power. Part # is 4011114 and was used on all CFI sleds from 2005 thru present.
I've also had a bad chassis power-up relay cause starting problems... stuck in the closed positon that caused problems. This allowed the little bit of power that was produced by the stator to bleed off thru the headlights and not allow it to start.
On all CFI sleds, remove the nut to the ground wire on the chasis each season clean the ring terminals with a scotch brite pad as well as the stud/chassis location and put re-install using electrial grease (commonly sold on the lightbulb section of your autoparts store). The Ground point on the chassis is crucial for proper operation of the engine.
Also, on All the CFI sleds, you should keep a spare chassis power relay zip tied under the hood in case that goes on you... Plus, if you ride with Doo guys, you'll be the hero when the lights and gauges stop working on thier sleds.
The symptoms of a bad chassis power relay are lights,handwarmer, instrument etc not working at all or flickering.
You can get a better than Polaris quality relay at Napa for about $15....Napa part # AR274
Location of Chassis Power Capicitor on 2005-2006 900/700 CFI sleds
The part about the napa relay should be taken out before someone else burns their ecu up.
Has anyone really had this work or was it just a theroy gone bad?
F
I did take mine back out - napa- and it runs fine
I've got a problem :-(
I developed a problem something like this on the way back to the rig today, I'm wondering if I could have a bad ground or relay possibly, looking for ideas.
Symptoms are:
at idle - low beam
headlights are dim,
leave handwarmers on and voltage display on guage reads minimal power, readout flashes the battery light
high beam
headlights are dim, guage cluster went dead, will come back on if idle is elevated slightly, battery light will be flashing
riding the sled:
the sled runs perfectly, voltage readout shows approximately 3/4 of max, all guages, handwarmers and headlights work normal. Coming to a stop with the headlghts on low and the hand warmers on, the headlights slowly go dim, the voltage readout slowly drops down to 1 bar and then starts flashing, when switched to hgh-beam the guage goes dead and headlights are dim.
I'm not really sure where to start, the sled still runs awesome, idle and reverse are completely un-affected, ther just seems to not be enough power at idle to run all the accessories as normal.
The stator was new at the beginning of the season (550 miles ago)
Chassis ground appeared tight but I have not done a thorough inspection as it was getting dark at the snow park.
Does the motor itself have a ground strap anywhere or does that little dinky chassis ground service everything?
I moved this from another post so I didnt hyjack it! :face-icon-small-win
The Chassis Power Capacitor, a 28000uF capacitor is mounted next to the ECU in front of the fuel tank tank on the 2005 -2006 Cfi's. (it is riveted to the bracket) and is located on the beltguard, under the cover mounted to the regualtor on the 2007 - 2009 RMK's. #3 in the pic at the bottom. can have problems and cause fuel pressure fluctions as well as ECU issues that are related to power. Part # is 4011114 and was used on all CFI sleds from 2005 thru present.
I've also had a bad chassis power-up relay cause starting problems... stuck in the closed positon that caused problems. This allowed the little bit of power that was produced by the stator to bleed off thru the headlights and not allow it to start.
On all CFI sleds, remove the nut to the ground wire on the chasis each season clean the ring terminals with a scotch brite pad as well as the stud/chassis location and put re-install using electrial grease (commonly sold on the lightbulb section of your autoparts store). The Ground point on the chassis is crucial for proper operation of the engine.
Also, on All the CFI sleds, you should keep a spare chassis power relay zip tied under the hood in case that goes on you... Plus, if you ride with Doo guys, you'll be the hero when the lights and gauges stop working on thier sleds.
The symptoms of a bad chassis power relay are lights,handwarmer, instrument etc not working at all or flickering.
You can get a better than Polaris quality relay at Napa for about $15....Napa part # AR274
I developed a problem something like this on the way back to the rig today, I'm wondering if I could have a bad ground or relay possibly, looking for ideas.
Symptoms are:
at idle - low beam
headlights are dim,
leave handwarmers on and voltage display on guage reads minimal power, readout flashes the battery light
high beam
headlights are dim, guage cluster went dead, will come back on if idle is elevated slightly, battery light will be flashing
riding the sled:
the sled runs perfectly, voltage readout shows approximately 3/4 of max, all guages, handwarmers and headlights work normal. Coming to a stop with the headlghts on low and the hand warmers on, the headlights slowly go dim, the voltage readout slowly drops down to 1 bar and then starts flashing, when switched to hgh-beam the guage goes dead and headlights are dim.
I'm not really sure where to start, the sled still runs awesome, idle and reverse are completely un-affected, ther just seems to not be enough power at idle to run all the accessories as normal.
The stator was new at the beginning of the season (550 miles ago)
Chassis ground appeared tight but I have not done a thorough inspection as it was getting dark at the snow park.
Does the motor itself have a ground strap anywhere or does that little dinky chassis ground service everything?
Sounds like you have a short... I'd check the grip heaters carefully...
Also check your wiring harness coming from the stator... often it rubs thru the insulation near the chassis..
No extra ground strap.
Could also be a failing chassis relay.
Happy hunting my friend.
===================
I have the NAPA relay in 2 sleds and still running strong after 2 seasons after they were sold (just emailed the current owner and no probs)
BUT...
If some of you are having problems... then I think that we should default on the side of caution and run the stock relay...
Also check your wiring harness coming from the stator... often it rubs thru the insulation near the chassis..
No extra ground strap.
Could also be a failing chassis relay.
Happy hunting my friend.
===================
I have the NAPA relay in 2 sleds and still running strong after 2 seasons after they were sold (just emailed the current owner and no probs)
BUT...
If some of you are having problems... then I think that we should default on the side of caution and run the stock relay...
I've run into your same exact symptoms before. Try disconnecting your hot grips, electrical plugs below the handle bars. EBB's did this with shorted grips. Also, check for shorted brake light wiring and or chassis relay not working/malfunctioning.
Thanks for the ideas, not looking forward to having to pull the tank to do a full inspection:face-icon-small-fro
The only other thing I forgot to mention is that if I turn the hand and thumbwarmer off and leave it on low beam the readout will climb back up to half power and hold at that level... headlights will still be dim, but not quite as bad.
The tail light on the dash and on the tunnel are both working normally.
The only other thing I forgot to mention is that if I turn the hand and thumbwarmer off and leave it on low beam the readout will climb back up to half power and hold at that level... headlights will still be dim, but not quite as bad.
The tail light on the dash and on the tunnel are both working normally.
This is why I rec'd trying to disconnect the electrical plugs that go to your hot grips, etc. first. A shorted out hot grip will cause exactly the problem you have and is very easy to diagnois if problem goes away when you disconnect the plug. Then you can replug each one one at a time to determine which side it is.
Disconnecting the relay and checking for the problem will let you know if there's something shorted out that's run of that relay also.
Sorry to say but I think your losing one of the three legs of the lighting coil. You can ohm test them to be sure.
I'd listen to Dave... He knows these setups inside and out...
Check it all!!
Check it all!!
Thanks for the ideas, I'm gonna do a quick check to see if I can physically see anything wrong, but after that it will be going in to the dealer... I dont have the tools to test/check any of that stuff and I'm not an electrical expert.
At least this gives me somewhere to start from though, so thanks for that:beer;
Update: Looks like you guys were right, one of the wires coming from the stator had rubbed through on the bulkhead and was shorting out, got it fixed up and the problem seems to have gone away, everything looks great at idle now, going up for a ride tomorrow, looking forward to being back on the tractor
Thanks for the ideas guys:beer;:beer;
At least this gives me somewhere to start from though, so thanks for that:beer;
Update: Looks like you guys were right, one of the wires coming from the stator had rubbed through on the bulkhead and was shorting out, got it fixed up and the problem seems to have gone away, everything looks great at idle now, going up for a ride tomorrow, looking forward to being back on the tractor
Thanks for the ideas guys:beer;:beer;
Last edited:
Dragon electrical issues
okay....Third trip with my 2010 dragon. While trail riding at night my Headlight went dim and MFD went out, and was told my brake light was inop. Would shut off the sled and restart and would be fine for a few minutes, however no loss in engine performance or check engine light. However earlier that day I noticed the left handle grip was approx 1/4in off so I twisted and slid it back on. I will swap relays with the napa and do a brief wiring check and recheck. If problem exists dissconnect grip heater per DiamondDave. Any and ALL info is very appericiated. Thank you to all for the info..... BBBRRRRRRRRRRAAAAPPPPPPP..........:face-icon-small-coo:face-icon-small-dis
okay....Third trip with my 2010 dragon. While trail riding at night my Headlight went dim and MFD went out, and was told my brake light was inop. Would shut off the sled and restart and would be fine for a few minutes, however no loss in engine performance or check engine light. However earlier that day I noticed the left handle grip was approx 1/4in off so I twisted and slid it back on. I will swap relays with the napa and do a brief wiring check and recheck. If problem exists dissconnect grip heater per DiamondDave. Any and ALL info is very appericiated. Thank you to all for the info..... BBBRRRRRRRRRRAAAAPPPPPPP..........:face-icon-small-coo:face-icon-small-dis
A bad voltage regulator will also cause everything go dead. If you run it too long with a bad VR the ECU will eventually burn up. 2010's were known for bad VR's.
Update I replaced the volt regulator road all day yesterday with no problem thanks to all for the replays and the posts:wave:
V
Good to hear, I changed mine out on my '10 but haven't been out yet.
Ttt
K
Resurrecting this post. 3-4 questions as my D8 just left me high and dry Sunday. Battery meter mysteriously draining, MFD goes out, then lights go out. Stop, they reset, then it starts all over again. Tried to limp it home. I had stopped and was idling. Squeezed throttle slightly, lights got bright, sled died, and is currently dead. Took VR off and bottom looks brand new.
I am getting conflicting P/N's for VR and they both pull up on Polaris parts page for same price. Is it #4012930 or 4013587?
Where exactly is the Chassis Relay on a D8?
Can you bench test a VR to see if it is good or bad?
Do you think my ECU or capacitor fried?
I am getting conflicting P/N's for VR and they both pull up on Polaris parts page for same price. Is it #4012930 or 4013587?
Where exactly is the Chassis Relay on a D8?
Can you bench test a VR to see if it is good or bad?
Do you think my ECU or capacitor fried?
B
I believe Polaris came out with a upgraded voltage regulator from the original those sleds came out with because of problems with it not sure what years but I believe it was the 08s on up to 10 that could be why you are getting two part numbers.
K
There are 4 versions for CFI-4 motors I believe. I have listed the last 2 and it appears both are still active, but who knows.
