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question for those who clutched their D-8's

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thefullmonte

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Nov 26, 2007
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Good post Monte...I used to mess with Heel Clicker wts about 7 years ago. They seemed to be awesome drag wts but we never could get them to be very reliable or consistent. HOWEVER, they have made A TON of improvements since then and I would imagine that their new style set-up is pretty sweet. I know your stuff rocks so that alone would lead me to believe they have fixed any issues they may have had.

Have you tried any other aftermarket wt...MTX, Belly Buster, STM, etc.?

I have run the MTX weights in the past with much success. Similar idea just not quite as adjustable. I have nothing bad to say about them at all. I really feel with these big twins that the use of some kind of heavy heel adjustable weight is almost mandatory. There are different means to the same end though.
My inspiration was simply new sled new weights to try. I won't lie, the Drag and Fly's take some patience, but I think I have a formula figured out for starting points. :rolleyes: I like the added adjust ability for sure. I broke some rules with tuning these. Had to scavenge some hardware stores for better selection of bolts/nuts/set screws to achieve the weight increments I was looking for.
They do tend to cater to racing more than mountain riding. I've found their setup to not really be to my liking. Just didn't up shift and back shift like I felt they should. It was curable however. And I'm still not the clutching guru that some of you are, but I feel I'm done tuning and we'll just keep the smiles coming. :D
I guess I should add that that setup should work good for up to around 6-7000ft. Higher than that, PM me and I can try to give you an idea of weight placement. Or, my theory of placement anyway. ;)
 

AKSNOWRIDER

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I have run the MTX weights in the past with much success. Similar idea just not quite as adjustable. I have nothing bad to say about them at all. I really feel with these big twins that the use of some kind of heavy heel adjustable weight is almost mandatory. There are different means to the same end though.
My inspiration was simply new sled new weights to try. I won't lie, the Drag and Fly's take some patience, but I think I have a formula figured out for starting points. :rolleyes: I like the added adjust ability for sure. I broke some rules with tuning these. Had to scavenge some hardware stores for better selection of bolts/nuts/set screws to achieve the weight increments I was looking for.
They do tend to cater to racing more than mountain riding. I've found their setup to not really be to my liking. Just didn't up shift and back shift like I felt they should. It was curable however. And I'm still not the clutching guru that some of you are, but I feel I'm done tuning and we'll just keep the smiles coming. :D
I guess I should add that that setup should work good for up to around 6-7000ft. Higher than that, PM me and I can try to give you an idea of weight placement. Or, my theory of placement anyway. ;)

great post monte, I think this is the kind of info everyone needs..allows them to see how many great working setups are out there...and that alot of riders really arnt even close to getting all the performance that their sled came with...:D beers for ya....:beer;:beer;:beer;:beer;:beer;:beer;
 
G

Gone Sleddin

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Nov 26, 2007
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could someone tell me what stock primary spring rates are? i believe it is a black green spring. thanks.
 

thefullmonte

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Should be a 140/330. It used to be the Polaris almond, but now it's black. Same as a team green.
The Polaris black/green was a 120/340. Same as a team bright yellow. I tested this. Smoothed out engagement, but didn't feel as responsive. And did over rev slightly, but that seems to work good for most.
 
I run the 911 Response clutch cover without any issues. Good product and allows me to run almost a 0" belt to sheave even as the belt wears down over time. Also, has a much better front cover bearing surface area than the stock Polaris cover does.
 

AKSNOWRIDER

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I wanted to post an update on my clutching..My dealer did the latest calibration on my sled last week so not knowing what it would change all I did clutching wise was to remove the 2 shims from the secondary..rode same area again as well as 1000 ft higher...sled /clutching ran from 8500 rpm at a starting elevation of 3500 ft. and highest elevation just shy of 6000 ft where it pulled 8250-8350. sled pulls extremely hard and is very responsive..didnt have a chance to do plug checks on the new calibration or to mess with the clutching since my buddy dropped the crank on his doo(65 mile tow to the road)but since it towed his sled to the road with out grenading the motor or a belt ..all is good....will do some checks and test int he next few weeks...
 
J

Junkshow

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Feb 9, 2009
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I was wondering if you guys are running a 155 or a 163. I have a 163 and have really been haveing a bad time trying to clutch it. Here is some back ground, I have the 09 D8 163 with a josh can, carl's cycle big air horn kit with extra dash vent, and also the vents by your knees and in your shock towers. I am running a 58/40 helix and i also have the 58/38 and the 62/42, I have 60 gram weights with a black green primary spring (120/340) and the stock secondary spring black purple. I have tried the blue pink slp spring (140/340) with some mtx weights with one gram in the belly and two in the toe (70grams) . Im geared at 19/41. All my buddies run the 155 with mtx 70 gram weights same as I tried and the slp blue pink with stock helix and stock secondary spring. I have tried the same set up as them and every thing between that I can think of I have tried those washers also. I ride between 7 and 9000 feet and the best setup that i have tried so far is with blue pink slp spring and 60gram polaris weights and at that I could still only get 8,000 to 8050 RPMS at the end of my rope I just want to snowmobile!:(
 

AKSNOWRIDER

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I was wondering if you guys are running a 155 or a 163. I have a 163 and have really been haveing a bad time trying to clutch it. Here is some back ground, I have the 09 D8 163 with a josh can, carl's cycle big air horn kit with extra dash vent, and also the vents by your knees and in your shock towers. I am running a 58/40 helix and i also have the 58/38 and the 62/42, I have 60 gram weights with a black green primary spring (120/340) and the stock secondary spring black purple. I have tried the blue pink slp spring (140/340) with some mtx weights with one gram in the belly and two in the toe (70grams) . Im geared at 19/41. All my buddies run the 155 with mtx 70 gram weights same as I tried and the slp blue pink with stock helix and stock secondary spring. I have tried the same set up as them and every thing between that I can think of I have tried those washers also. I ride between 7 and 9000 feet and the best setup that i have tried so far is with blue pink slp spring and 60gram polaris weights and at that I could still only get 8,000 to 8050 RPMS at the end of my rope I just want to snowmobile!:(
my sled runs a 163...you do have at least 2 delrin washers in the secondary?if so at your elevation you may need to raise spring rate to gain rpm vrs lighter weights(light weights dont want to shift out fully in some setups)I would try the mtx's with no rivits..and if it doesnt pull rpm I would raise primary spring pressures on top for sure(about 20 pds higher)..
 
R
Jan 11, 2009
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AKsnowrider

what kind of clutching are you running? i run about the same elevations with carl's set up 64g bb. i feel lucky to hold 8100 rpm. with the weights you run, what is the actual weight? thanks
 

AKSNOWRIDER

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what kind of clutching are you running? i run about the same elevations with carl's set up 64g bb. i feel lucky to hold 8100 rpm. with the weights you run, what is the actual weight? thanks

my clutch setup is a slp green/pink spring, slp mtx 68 gram weights with 2 gram rivit in the tip and 1 gram rivit in the belly(71 gram total weight), 62/42/.46 helix, 3 delrin washers and stock secondary spring...at 3500 ft elevation it will hit 8500(50 rpm more then where it pulls hardest)rpm..at 5500 ft it pulls 8300....the mtx weights are a very heel heavy weight which makes them up shift hard while still getting full rpm and shiftout...
 
A

akrevrider

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Jan 15, 2008
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Wasilla, Alaska
Big*Torque weights 68 or 69 grams?

I just ordered a set of weights from Ron and asked him to fab up a set of 69 gram Big*Torque weights out of a set of 10-66s for my 09 D-8 155 for 1000-5000ft. Do you think this will be too heavy of a weight for proper shift out?

I also have a set of the delrins to add to my secondary to help with the shift out on top also.

Any suggestions are appreciated. max rpm in a climb is 7850 in powder.

akrevrider
 

AKSNOWRIDER

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I just ordered a set of weights from Ron and asked him to fab up a set of 69 gram Big*Torque weights out of a set of 10-66s for my 09 D-8 155 for 1000-5000ft. Do you think this will be too heavy of a weight for proper shift out?

I also have a set of the delrins to add to my secondary to help with the shift out on top also.

Any suggestions are appreciated. max rpm in a climb is 7850 in powder.

akrevrider

hey rev, talked with ron tonite...he found that the 10-66 and 10-68 weights are different then the lighter 10 series weights..so he is working on figuring out the balance needed on them..rather then taking away weight to gain rpm I would try stiffening your primary spring..might try raising finish rate by 20 pds and see if it doesnt bring it up to 8200-8300..if you get to lite on weight the clutches dont want to reach full shift out...
 
J

Junkshow

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Feb 9, 2009
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I have got my dragon back and have tried some things. I am running a blue pink spring 140/340 with mtx 68 grams with 3 grams in the tip. I am running a 58\ 40 .36 helix with delrin washers. Im running stock gearing 19\41 with a josh can. This is giving me 7950 to 8000 rpm right on the money. It pulls like a train, the only thing that I noticed is when I bring my track back into the snow after coming off a drift it will drag to 7700 for just a split second and will jump back. I think this can ba solved with mybe only 1 or 2 grams in the tip and 1 or 2 in the middle will have to try that monday. I was turning between 50 & 52 mph track speed in about a foot of new, at 8500 hundred feet seems to be working pretty good will know more after monday.
 
J

Junkshow

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Feb 9, 2009
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Logan Utah
Okay my sled went down before I got all the parts for the set up so this last weekend I stuck it in one of my buddies 09 D8 163. I am running a blue pink slp spring 140/340 with mtx 68 gram weights, with one gram in the tip. In my secondary I am running stock blue purple spring with a 58/40 .36 helix with 3 delrin washers. I am geared at a 19 top and a 45 bottom. The sled we tried it on had a mbrp can is all. I am tacking at 8300 rpm's and turning 55 mph track speed. After several tests on the hill yeilded the same results give or take a couple mph either way. On a super long pull I will drop to about 8200 but never below that. I think that with maybe a little tuning now that I the gear it can maybe be inproved on with some ajustments to the weights as far as how much weight in the tips and belly. Oh and I am running any were from 7 to 9000 feet.
 
O
Nov 26, 2007
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jackson, wy
good info junkshow, i run blue/pink and 60g weights at 8,000-10,000' and pull 8250 rpm that will drop to 8100 rpm on long pull. im going to try your setup next wkend though. thanks
 
D
Nov 26, 2007
574
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Yakima, WA
AK - Your setup is very close to what I've come to, for the best setup. Ron is helping me with a set of weights for my elevation(3-6K). I did get a chance this weekend to test them. WOW those weights make a HUGE difference. I am running the Team Silver (165-344) primary spring, stock blk/prple secondary,64-42-.46 Helix, 19/42 gears,v-force,SLP highflow and single SLP. Sled pulled very hard at 8250 w/ great back / up shift. My sled was a complete turd on the topend before I went with this stiff primary and tried Ron's weights, I can testify these sleds really wake up with the correct clutching.
 

AKSNOWRIDER

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AK - Your setup is very close to what I've come to, for the best setup. Ron is helping me with a set of weights for my elevation(3-6K). I did get a chance this weekend to test them. WOW those weights make a HUGE difference. I am running the Team Silver (165-344) primary spring, stock blk/prple secondary,64-42-.46 Helix, 19/42 gears,v-force,SLP highflow and single SLP. Sled pulled very hard at 8250 w/ great back / up shift. My sled was a complete turd on the topend before I went with this stiff primary and tried Ron's weights, I can testify these sleds really wake up with the correct clutching.

glad to hear you like it stew, I have a set of weights that I was supposed to send to ron about a month ago(can ya say work sucks sometimes)..Did it really help the top end pull when climbing? thats real close to my setup other then for the initial angle 64 vrs 62 and primary spring 165/344 vrs my 160/340..hows it do for belt/clutch temps? mine after repeated climbs you can hold the belt in hand and lay your hand on either clutch,,,
 

800poodragon

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AK - Your setup is very close to what I've come to, for the best setup. Ron is helping me with a set of weights for my elevation(3-6K). I did get a chance this weekend to test them. WOW those weights make a HUGE difference. I am running the Team Silver (165-344) primary spring, stock blk/prple secondary,64-42-.46 Helix, 19/42 gears,v-force,SLP highflow and single SLP. Sled pulled very hard at 8250 w/ great back / up shift. My sled was a complete turd on the topend before I went with this stiff primary and tried Ron's weights, I can testify these sleds really wake up with the correct clutching.

I will second that...clutching sure makes a difference. Rons weights sure made a difference with the combination too:D
 
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