Road Bikes---cycling

Scott,

....I'm not a bike snob but have 30+ triathlons under my belt and years of pretty solid training. I'll give you my feedback as a triathlete

1. In Mn if you go to a triathlon you will see all types of bikes in transition - point being you can race anything. Like sledding thou lots of people just like cool gear and end up with fancy carbon frames, wheels, ect

2. If you went to a forum like www.slowtwitch.com you could find years worth of reading on bike choices and still never come to a clear conclusion on 'what is best. It's kinda like clutching a sled......some work better than other for x-y-z.

3. Most 'serious' triathletes training on road bikes - it's not super comfortable to be in the aero positon for 60-100 mile long training rides.

4. Aero bars can be added to a road bike frame if you really thought you needed them - if you are doing short races (less than 1/2 iron) my guess is the time delta is only a couple seconds due to being more aero

5. Used bikes in the triathlon market are really good deals since there are so many people who either want the latest an greatest or simply only stay with it for a couple years. I personally found a QR Ti-Phoon on ebay new for less than 40% of what it would have cost new.

Good luck.

PS - you want to get in shape go to wresting practice

ROAD BIKE = A MOTORCYCLE WITH BAGS

gee Scott...if a bike is getting your rocks off you should try snowmobiling...i think you would find it more enjoyable and you could spend the summers modifying it and going on a forum...heck maybe become a mod..

m8magicandmystery said:

gee Scott...if a bike is getting your rocks off you should try snowmobiling...i think you would find it more enjoyable and you could spend the summers modifying it and going on a forum...heck maybe become a mod..

Click to expand...

Is a mod one of them there male like creatures with breasts?

If you spend $3500 on one of those I will kick you in the gooch!

scott

don't worry about the clowns not getting it.
I really can't help you with road bycylces. the 2 tri's i have done where on a mountain bike and a borrowed road bike. I have a cycle cross bike and i wouldn't think twice about using it to road train on.
Get a nice bike you will want to ride. check out the local tri club in missoula. you got them.
but your best bet would be to go to the local bike shop that caters to tri people and talk to them about basic road bikes and go from there.

this is going to sound corny, but cycling shoes make a world of difference.

tim

My fiancee is getting into Tri's...therefore, I am getting into tri's. :face-icon-small-coo She ran her second on Saturday and came in 7th in age-group, 180th overall out of 650+.

She did her first on her mtn bike. Still got first place. The next weekend I bought her my roommates '02 Giant TCR C2 (road bike, not tri) which he was upgrading to the Scott team bike (one of the nicest American made bikes I've seen). She LOVES her new bike and it's 8 years old! We've already agreed that when we feel the bike is holding her back, we'll get her a top-end bike.

I bought a 2-year-old Motobecane tri bike. Aluminum frame, carbon fork, nothing fancy...has stock aero bars and they SUCK! Paid $800 for it with pedals/cleats. Feel like I did ok on the price and the bike does what I need it to. It's fairly uncomfortable for 60+ miles, but for 20-40 it's ok.

What you end up depends on what you want to really do, and what you want to really spend.

If you honestly just want to do tri's, go buy a tri bike...but know what you're getting and that it'll be uncomfortable for long pulls. You're not a pro, the aero bars don't really help if you're legs aren't doing their part. Case-in-point is my fiancee smoking people on their $6000 tri bikes while she's on her $1000 road bike.

To do it right, you need two bikes. I'll be getting a road bike soon, for century rides, and we'll be buying her a tri-bike for her races. Her next race is Sept 11, my first is Oct 2 at the Pensacola tri.

The END GOAL of all this madness is her being on the USMC tri-team and both of us COMPLETING full Ironman's. FML, 140.6 miles is a LONG ways to go...

Check out this dude from Saturday...motivator was outta his shoes 1/4 mile before the finish.

Yes spend the money on a good bike and you will love it !!! I have 1400 miles on so far this year and love it. My back up bike has 9000 miles on it and my new onw that is 2 years old has 3100.

Using bindings and good shoes allow you to get more out of the bike Scott... actually the only way to get real power into the bike with a proper/efficient circular pedal motion.

Mtb binding shoes will not allow you to corner as tightly while pedaling and can "trip you up" ...road shoes are built differently and are not made to walk in comfortably (you always feel like you are doing a wheelie while walking... great calf stretch though)

TT bikes are pretty specific and have the allure of "Boy.. I ride what Lance rides in the TT stages"... but in reality, it is left lacking in general use and will beat you up a bit IMO. TT bikes are really "tight" with the rear wheel tucked up in close under the seat post...very responsive, stiff and aerodynamic. A TT or Tri bike has the rider lower and more foward which can lead to less stability... actually a pretty esoteric piece of equipment that will sacrifice comfort and stability for aerodynamics.

Bikes with longer chain-stays, and head tubes/seat tubes that are less vertical will be more comfortable... You may give up a bit of maneuverability if you are in a tight group of riders and banging bars to break out or on a really tight city street course compared to a TT/Tri bike but not that you will realize for years. Also, tires and geometry play just as much a part in comfort as the material... a tight geometry Carbon bike will probably be harsher than an aluminum bike that is longer in WB.

I like the FSA bars... the energy series has a straight section of tubing on the drops that makes riding in the drop position more comfortable.

This will give you a good mix of training comfort and ability in the bike section of the Tri...IMO.

Clamp on aero bars are a good alternative if you find you "must" ride in a more aero position. (which is pretty difficult when you are huffin and puffin on a long climb in the saddle)

Unless you plan to devote your life to this... go with a more usable bike... Ultegra triple gruppo and a good Carbon frame with carbon fork. The carbon frames will give you a bit more comfort and be easier on you body than a similar geometry aluminum bike.

Find a nice quality, used 3 ring 9 or 10 speed road bike...No need for a Dura Ace gruppo or anything from Campagnolo (too much money for parts/repairs).

The 105 and Ultegra is just fine for you needs. (9 speed is even a good choice for most non pro level riding and was cutting edge for many years)

I'm a big fan of the Giant TCR bikes from about 2004/08 for their price... you can find them with a good Ultegra triple group and Mavic wheels for sub $800 if you look.

Bike shops, even the good ones are notorious for talking you into more bike than you need....

Basically, when the bike and NOT your physical abilities becomes the performance limit, you should think about upgrading to some really 'trick' bike... not till then.

Working on this and nutrition while riding will make you a better sledder to.... nice bonus, huh?

Also, road bikes are pretty easy to ship...bike shops can pack them for you if you find one out of the area for a great deal. Not too bad on price either.

I am looking at the same line I have a tricross now and love it !

He can coast at 17mph and stay with me while I'm pedaling along on the bike I borrowed for the tri (alum Trek with Ultregras). LMFAO

Click to expand...

Sounds more like a tire/pressure issue than the bikes you were riding... unless yours had bad bearings in it or he had aero-bars in a windy situation...or he was a heavy guy on a down-grade???

I thought I heard the "Sledgehammer" is a pretty good bike.

Scott said:

Ok....I could maybe spend a lot of time on a road bike forum and infiltrate them.



Ridecats...
I have a question about aerobars...that outer bar with brake handles...is that the normal place you'd have your hands on regular bars when you place them on top the brakes (where most people put their hands)?

Soooo how much different is that position than a regular road bike position? Is the top tube shorter on a tt/aero bike?


I have a couple of links for you to look at:
Hmmmm....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120578454542&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

I like this one:
http://classifieds.roadbikereview.com/showproduct.php?product=21400&cat=3

I like this one ALOT!!!
http://classifieds.roadbikereview.com/showproduct.php?product=21618&cat=3

Click to expand...

Scott - those are all really nice bikes and if that is the price range you are looking at you can't really go wrong since most bikes of that caliber have good components. I agree with Tim that the LBS is best place initially to spend your time. They can get you onto the right size bike since not all 56cm bike fit the same. If your primary goal is to race tri's the tri bike seems the most logical. If you looking for a bike to ride lots and be comfortable on during 75+mile days at tri or TT bike is wring choice. Also if your planning on riding in a group the aero bar suck since your not near the brake levers when in the aero bars.

I gotta ask - why not a killer mountain bike? If I lived in the mountains that's what I'd do!!!!!