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My buddy ruined his inner sheeve and bought a new one and it didn't come with a ring gear ( he does not have e start) should we transfer it on to the new one ? Why do they even come with it in the first place !?!
Why have ring gear on clutch
- Thread starter 800PowerFanatic
- Start date
Star valley took the ones off my sleds when they were new.. I haven't run them for yrs.. Never a problem
Z
not sure on the new one that came without it but this was a real hot topic a few years back and the consenous seemed to bee that the gear was part of the balance of the clutch and factored into the counter weight weight in the crank. dont know if that is actually the case or not but guys on here made a strong enough case i never wanted to tempt fate
W
I removed ring gear from 09 600 etec with no negative results in 3,900 miles.
W
I removed ring gear from 09 600 etec with no negative results in 3,900 miles.
I also run a tra3 outer sheave that has been cut down.. Super light and flows a ton of air. I think its a pound lighter than the stock setup, it is balanced of course.. 1500 miles on big bore and still smooth as day one, so I would say counter balance is a myth.. Trued crank and balanced clutch and will last a long time, nothing to do with how much weight is hanging out there
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T
There is a small chance the steel gear aids in sheave rigidity...
I believe all sleds come with it for two reasons. 1) estart is added to the sled at a point farther down the Len than when the clutch is installed. 2) clutch calibration will change slightly with the reduction in weight.
But, it's also possible that the gear is figured into the rigidity calculation of the fixed sheave. I never have run the gear though.
I believe all sleds come with it for two reasons. 1) estart is added to the sled at a point farther down the Len than when the clutch is installed. 2) clutch calibration will change slightly with the reduction in weight.
But, it's also possible that the gear is figured into the rigidity calculation of the fixed sheave. I never have run the gear though.
It isn't for balance...but for the rpm at which resonance occurs. Everything resonates at a certain frequency. The more an engine sees this frequency the less time it will live....whether it be crank, piston, bearings etc...
The ring gear was added to avoid this at commonly seen rpm...what rpm that is I have no idea. And what lightening the clutch does to what rpm this occurs I have no idea, but any change in mass will undoubtably change this.
Some Polaris guys will add mass to the P-85 to increase the life of the clutch and crank. I ran the much lighter P-85 on a Doo 800R for a short time and lost a crank. It may have been a coincidence..?? I did notice much more vibration in the bars with the lighter clutch....and yes, it was balanced.
Many guys remove this ring and have no problems, I have heard from many others that have seen what they consider short crank life running lighter clutches. For myself, its not worth the gamble. I do vibration/resonance testing for a living so Im probably overly paranoid about these sorts of things, but having seen where small changes can make a huge difference in the life of a part I will not mess with something that works. JMO
The ring gear was added to avoid this at commonly seen rpm...what rpm that is I have no idea. And what lightening the clutch does to what rpm this occurs I have no idea, but any change in mass will undoubtably change this.
Some Polaris guys will add mass to the P-85 to increase the life of the clutch and crank. I ran the much lighter P-85 on a Doo 800R for a short time and lost a crank. It may have been a coincidence..?? I did notice much more vibration in the bars with the lighter clutch....and yes, it was balanced.
Many guys remove this ring and have no problems, I have heard from many others that have seen what they consider short crank life running lighter clutches. For myself, its not worth the gamble. I do vibration/resonance testing for a living so Im probably overly paranoid about these sorts of things, but having seen where small changes can make a huge difference in the life of a part I will not mess with something that works. JMO
Ring Gear
1) If BRP put it on the machine (even when it was not used) they did not spend money on a machined part unless it helped - if only to make the engine last the warranty period.
2) John DeLorean when at GM said "Parts we do not put on the vehicle do not cause warranty problems or expense and cost us no money to produce".
3) Brew is correct in that adding weight changes the resonate frequency of the item it is added to. If the crank has a resonate frequency that corresponds to the power peak RPM adding weight may be a solution to avoid destruction. Engineers are smarter in some specific areas. This may be one.
4) Back in the day we would add one and two pound weight discs to MotoCross bike flywheels to smooth out the power band and make them hook up in gnarly situations where traction was scarce. Funny, the Enduro bike versions (of the same engines) had heavier fly wheels from the factory.
5) With as heavy as the clutch is to begin with, combined with the inertia of the whole drive train on a sled, do you really think that ring is going to make a credible difference in power? When you have 30 pounds of ice, snow and slush thrashing around in a tunnel propelled by a 2.5" paddle track? Maybe, I would like to see the verification on that one. Not doubting, just want objective data from the hill.
1) If BRP put it on the machine (even when it was not used) they did not spend money on a machined part unless it helped - if only to make the engine last the warranty period.
2) John DeLorean when at GM said "Parts we do not put on the vehicle do not cause warranty problems or expense and cost us no money to produce".
3) Brew is correct in that adding weight changes the resonate frequency of the item it is added to. If the crank has a resonate frequency that corresponds to the power peak RPM adding weight may be a solution to avoid destruction. Engineers are smarter in some specific areas. This may be one.
4) Back in the day we would add one and two pound weight discs to MotoCross bike flywheels to smooth out the power band and make them hook up in gnarly situations where traction was scarce. Funny, the Enduro bike versions (of the same engines) had heavier fly wheels from the factory.
5) With as heavy as the clutch is to begin with, combined with the inertia of the whole drive train on a sled, do you really think that ring is going to make a credible difference in power? When you have 30 pounds of ice, snow and slush thrashing around in a tunnel propelled by a 2.5" paddle track? Maybe, I would like to see the verification on that one. Not doubting, just want objective data from the hill.
Same goes with the race dept sleds, no ring gear and they are cut down... My guess is it cost less to just slap those cranks together with the added weight than it does to true them and have them perfect in every sled.. I would not run the light clutch if my crank wasn't at 0.00.. Star valley pulls the ring gear on new sleds well at least they did on mine. I did have them big bore it from day one though. I checked my run out at 1,200 miles and still perfect.. Clutches also run a lot cooler being cut.. So in my opinion what's worse? the high heat transferred to crank or the possibility of extra harmonics through the crank.. idk time will tell I guess... I don't run my motors past 2 to 2,500 miles anyway a lot of problems happen between 2 and 3000 miles, stock or otherwise
J
Id leave it on it acts like a dampner on a small block chevy I took one off a 800 a couple years back and it grenade
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