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"Fix It kit" with a turbo pro?

Octanee

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Hey guys, I'm curious if anybody is running a fix it kit with their turbo pro. I thought some raise the compression a bit which is great for n/a to me it would be a no brainer regardless however if the compression is raised then we know that it may not be the way to go for turbo'ing, less boost = less air which = power and more chance of detonation. I was told by somebody that they figure the pro on boost doesn't need the longer skirts that somehow with boost it's not affected by the issue as the n/a sled is. However I'd still believe that having a piston with a longer skirt regardless is going to beneficial. Thanks!:face-icon-small-ton
 

Ult680

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If the piston is too short in a stock engine, how would a turbo sled with the same components? We have installed fix kits in the pro engines with great results. The Mntk kits work great for us. I have a 14 pro with 3000 miles @ 10 lbs with a fix kit, still alive and well.


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Octanee

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If the piston is too short in a stock engine, how would a turbo sled with the same components? We have installed fix kits in the pro engines with great results. The Mntk kits work great for us. I have a 14 pro with 3000 miles @ 10 lbs with a fix kit, still alive and well.


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Thanks for the input, That's what I was thinking as well, I will be throwing the fix kit in the sled this winter when I overhaul it. You also have lots of mileage on that sled with 10#, did you do anything extra to the sled to make it seem more reliable? what kind of reeds do you run? I'm over hauling my sled, Ive got the oil pump turned up from factory to approx ~30-35:1 or so, cheaper to throw more oil at her to help with cooling of components but hopefully the longevity of the engine.
 

Norway

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I'll go of like a broken record again..

Whatever you do, check the specs. Piston to cylinder-wall clearance and ring end-gap.
I repeat this since the results seem to vary with most kits and stock. Some go far, some short. This hints to me that there is a variable at play here aside from pistons and rings. And the cylinder is my #1 suspect. To tight or to loose transfers directly to those two measurements. And they can make or break an engine.

And your turbo needs quality programming to keep the heat in check. Rings transfer heat away from piston, so it must be in good shape! Ring flaking...

Good luck, ride safe!

RS
 

Octanee

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Nov 15, 2010
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Cranbrook Bc
I'll go of like a broken record again..

Whatever you do, check the specs. Piston to cylinder-wall clearance and ring end-gap.
I repeat this since the results seem to vary with most kits and stock. Some go far, some short. This hints to me that there is a variable at play here aside from pistons and rings. And the cylinder is my #1 suspect. To tight or to loose transfers directly to those two measurements. And they can make or break an engine.

And your turbo needs quality programming to keep the heat in check. Rings transfer heat away from piston, so it must be in good shape! Ring flaking...

Good luck, ride safe!

RS

Thanks for the reply! Yes the measurements are important and I do check that when I put together an engine. But I'm sure many don't.
 

roughrider99

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Myself and about 7-8 other friends with pros just bought good quality wossner pistons instead of fix it kits. After 2000 turbo miles and messing and learning to tune and have even run up to 18 psi for a weekend, I figured I better tear into it and do a top end and full inspection. Skirt to cylinder clearance still in spec and pistons looked great. I personally don't buy into the hype of the piston kit. I understand the logic of less slap with taller piston but what does a fix it kit cost? Like $500? I spent the same on 2 high quality pistons that have tighter tolerance, less varition between pistons dimension wise as there is always an allowable spec at quality control. Instead of 2 cheaper quality pistons that need to be taller to emulate tighter tolerances of good quality components. I'm at 3k miles with my setup.

Just my opinion/theory and our little group has yet to blow up an engine and that's 2012-2015 units. Mines a 12' which I've heard is the notorious year. Only seen 2 pros personally blow up and they stock high mile (3500) and the other was rebuilt with wiseco within 4-500 miles.
 

Ult680

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Ada, MI
I have been running the stock reeds.... but when the heat soak gets too much I usually give it a break. Usually hot intake temps really hurt the reeds, I turned the oil pump up and always premix oil a cup per tank. Depending on elevation my fuel mix changes, but usually mix LL100 50/50 at 10k and 100% at 1000ft. I have run as high as 12 lbs at sea level trying to break the poor girl and she still lives.


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Octanee

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Nov 15, 2010
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Cranbrook Bc
Myself and about 7-8 other friends with pros just bought good quality wossner pistons instead of fix it kits. After 2000 turbo miles and messing and learning to tune and have even run up to 18 psi for a weekend, I figured I better tear into it and do a top end and full inspection. Skirt to cylinder clearance still in spec and pistons looked great. I personally don't buy into the hype of the piston kit. I understand the logic of less slap with taller piston but what does a fix it kit cost? Like $500? I spent the same on 2 high quality pistons that have tighter tolerance, less varition between pistons dimension wise as there is always an allowable spec at quality control. Instead of 2 cheaper quality pistons that need to be taller to emulate tighter tolerances of good quality components. I'm at 3k miles with my setup.

Just my opinion/theory and our little group has yet to blow up an engine and that's 2012-2015 units. Mines a 12' which I've heard is the notorious year. Only seen 2 pros personally blow up and they stock high mile (3500) and the other was rebuilt with wiseco within 4-500 miles.

Thanks for the info, Yes there certainly is a flip side to it all, the fix kit does cost for sure. the MTNTEK kit has wiseco pistons which I am a fan of, I think pistons alone are generally ~400?? rk tek wants 395. so for an extra ~$100 it certainly doesn't hurt.

I have been running the stock reeds.... but when the heat soak gets too much I usually give it a break. Usually hot intake temps really hurt the reeds, I turned the oil pump up and always premix oil a cup per tank. Depending on elevation my fuel mix changes, but usually mix LL100 50/50 at 10k and 100% at 1000ft. I have run as high as 12 lbs at sea level trying to break the poor girl and she still lives.


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wicked, I believe that the one downfall to the pro is the lack of oil injection, and especially turbo'd. I had a lot of detonation happening in my sled so I blew up the reeds mighty fast, But going forward I don't want to be doing or worrying about the reeds, so hoping to find a good beefy solution if possible.
 
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