2006 m6 bad bog

JoeySlushr · Dec 26, 2016

Did you try running it with all the handlebar switches unhooked? (kill switch and all warmers) spark plug sockets fit tight? Try ohming the plug wires and role them around while testing to see if it jumps around- looks for partial connection

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mi boondocker · Dec 26, 2016

JoeySlushr said:
Did you try running it with all the handlebar switches unhooked? (kill switch and all warmers) spark plug sockets fit tight? Try ohming the plug wires and role them around while testing to see if it jumps around- looks for partial connection

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I'll try unhooking the handwarmers, already bypassed the TSS. Ordered a new coil and caps today.

mi boondocker · Dec 26, 2016

Do you ohm the coil wires with the caps on or off, its actually hard to get a reading from cap to cap.

CATSLEDMAN1 · Dec 26, 2016

toooo short some where

all the early m series were prone to having electrical shorts, ok grounding out, the main culprit was the tail ligh wire, after that wiring harness under the gas tank, and bad handlbar wires and switch's and the symptoms were as you describe and would come and go.

I would guess you have an electrical issue, broken engine parts normally are consistently bad, running good at low rpm about knocks out internal engine issues. For sure take a good look at the power valves, unhooked / frayed sticking cable/cables, stuck valves.........all can throw you for a loop.

JoeySlushr · Dec 27, 2016

IGNITION COIL (Primary)
1. Disconnect the double wire plug from the ECU
to the ignition coil.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to the black/orange
lead; then connect the black meter lead to the
orange/black lead.
4. Ignition coil primary resistance must be between
0.24-0.36 ohm.
IGNITION COIL (Secondary)
1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension
wires.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to one high tension
wire; then connect the black meter lead to the
other high tension wire.
4. Ignition coil secondary resistance must be
between 6800-10,200 ohms

SPARK-PLUG CAP
1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension
wires.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. In turn on each cap, touch a tester lead to each
end of the spark-plug cap.
4. Spark-plug cap resistance must be between
4000-6000 ohms.

JoeySlushr · Dec 27, 2016

if you go behind that aluminum plate under the handlebars, you can unhook all the handlebar stuff, down close to the tunnel is a three wire plug for the taillight as well. unhook them all and try it, if it clears up hook them back up one at a time until the problem shows back up. and yes you can run it with everything unhooked, been running mine that way for years.
I don't mean to discredit anyone but problems with the exhaust valves is really unlikely, stop wasting time chasing them

JoeySlushr · Dec 27, 2016

o and tape the engine side of the kill switch plugin so it doesn't ground out randomly and throw you for another loop

mi boondocker · Dec 27, 2016

JoeySlushr said:
IGNITION COIL (Primary)
1. Disconnect the double wire plug from the ECU
to the ignition coil.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to the black/orange
lead; then connect the black meter lead to the
orange/black lead.
4. Ignition coil primary resistance must be between
0.24-0.36 ohm.
IGNITION COIL (Secondary)
1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension
wires.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to one high tension
wire; then connect the black meter lead to the
other high tension wire.
4. Ignition coil secondary resistance must be
between 6800-10,200 ohms

SPARK-PLUG CAP
1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension
wires.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. In turn on each cap, touch a tester lead to each
end of the spark-plug cap.
4. Spark-plug cap resistance must be between
4000-6000 ohms.

thank you

mi boondocker · Dec 27, 2016

mi boondocker said:
thank you

Just checked with meter, caps are 5.2 k ohm good, coil lead to lead with caps off is 7.5k ohm good, now the connector blk/org and org/blk to the ECU reads from .1 megaohm and continuosly climbs to O.L. Bad primary coil in stator? or ECU?

Snowmow · Dec 27, 2016

Damn good thread here guys! Awesome to see the OP "mi boondocker" knows his way around some electrical trouble shooting!! Very rare!!

Snowmow · Dec 27, 2016

JoeySlushr said:
IGNITION COIL (Primary)

1. Disconnect the double wire plug from the ECU

to the ignition coil.

2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.

3. Connect the red meter lead to the black/orange

lead; then connect the black meter lead to the

orange/black lead.

4. Ignition coil primary resistance must be between

0.24-0.36 ohm.

IGNITION COIL (Secondary)

1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension

wires.

2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.

3. Connect the red meter lead to one high tension

wire; then connect the black meter lead to the

other high tension wire.

4. Ignition coil secondary resistance must be

between 6800-10,200 ohms

SPARK-PLUG CAP

1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension

wires.

2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.

3. In turn on each cap, touch a tester lead to each

end of the spark-plug cap.

4. Spark-plug cap resistance must be between

4000-6000 ohms.

Great post here!!!

Betterview · Dec 27, 2016

mi boondocker said:
Just checked with meter, caps are 5.2 k ohm good, coil lead to lead with caps off is 7.5k ohm good, now the connector blk/org and org/blk to the ECU reads from .1 megaohm and continuosly climbs to O.L. Bad primary coil in stator? or ECU?

It is starting to look like post number 18 was on the correct track.

JoeySlushr · Dec 27, 2016

I have the tests and specs for the coils but it's on the other computer. I'll get it on here in the morning

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mi boondocker · Dec 28, 2016

Just another note my spark seems pretty weak, not a nice blue spark.

JoeySlushr · Dec 28, 2016

Let me know if this works. Computer kept locking up on me so I took pictures

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cavadini · Dec 28, 2016

I had the same issue with my 09 m1000.
I found that one of my spark plug caps would rub
On my steering post and and at higher rpm it would
Arc across and make the engine miss and bog down.
Just a possibility.

Sledbrain2 · Dec 28, 2016

There is a timing sensor that can go bad that reads off the flywheel. My m7 had one go bad similar issue.

mi boondocker · Dec 28, 2016

JoeySlushr said:
Let me know if this works. Computer kept locking up on me so I took pictures

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Awesome, thanks!

mi boondocker · Jan 12, 2017

new pistons, rings, crank seals, stator and coil still runs like ****.

Snowmow · Jan 12, 2017

mi boondocker said:
new pistons, rings, crank seals, stator and coil still runs like ****.

Do the symbols on the injectors match the symbols on the ECU?

Do you have access to another ECU to try?

2006 m6 bad bog

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