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My First Arctic Cat: 14' M8000 - Must do mods?

boondocker97

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Oct 30, 2008
4,074
2,794
113
Billings MT
It really depends on your budget and what type of riding you do. If I was looking at your sled this is what I'd do in order of importance:
1. Skis. I have Powder Pros. I’d try SLP Mohawks ($450 new) or Grippers ($250 takeoffs) on a new sled.
2. Re-gear with 20T top sprocket and get rid of the aluminum lower sprocket and auto chain tensioner. Cost varies depending on options. $75 for top sprocket and tensioner to $350 with new Hyvo and tensioner. Can buy sets used from guys that have upgraded to belt drives.
3. Tube Running boards: $450
- Adds a couple pounds but the added rigidity and transfer of rider input to the sled is well worth it.
- Sheds snow a little better.
- More aggressive grip.
4. Tether: $40
5. Clutching: Pick your poison.
6. Replace jackshaft with 2015 updated part: $75
-Better durability.
7. Update front end to 2016+ geometry: $450-750
-Requires half the amount of counter steering to maintain a sidehill. If you don’t dangle on the slopes this one moves down the list a little.
-36” or 38” stance is a preference thing. I like 38” but I’m a bigger guy. Staying 38” is the cheaper option for you.
8. Hood with intake and headlight delete: $400
- 12lb loss
-Fixes intake temp sensor location.
-Lets underhood heat out.
9. Toms Shock Revalve: $360?
- Make your ride enjoyable.
-Get spacer put in front shocks if you go to 36” front end.
10. Belt drive with oil injection delete, D&R kit: $1,050
- 11.5lb loss
- More responsive.
- Gear up to 2.52 or 2.42 ratio.
- Pre-mix gas seems to run cleaner. I mix mine 32:1 even though 40:1 is a common recommendation.
11. 3" PC track: $500 Used or $950? new.

Anytime mods-Strip/streamline some "unnecessary" parts:
- Underhood foam and clutch side duct
- Skid idler wheels
- Trim Skag bolts
- Snow Flap
- SLP LED tail light: $20
- Loose 6lb
 
Last edited:

DDECKER

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 26, 2013
4,770
1,780
113
CRAIG COLORADO
better idea haha rather then spend lots of money like these guys want you to-do haha just buy my sled
face-icon-small-tongue.gif
face-icon-small-wink.gif
, No the sky's the limit better question what kind of riding do you like to-do how much would you like to spend?
 
N
Sep 9, 2012
30
2
8
It really depends on your budget and what type of riding you do. If I was looking at your sled this is what I'd do in order of importance:
1. Skis. I have Powder Pros. I’d try SLP Mohawks ($450 new) or Grippers ($250 takeoffs) on a new sled.
2. Re-gear with 20T top sprocket and get rid of the aluminum lower sprocket and auto chain tensioner. Cost varies depending on options. $75 for top sprocket and tensioner to $350 with new Hyvo and tensioner. Can buy sets used from guys that have upgraded to belt drives.
3. Tube Running boards: $450
- Adds a couple pounds but the added rigidity and transfer of rider input to the sled is well worth it.
- Sheds snow a little better.
- More aggressive grip.
4. Tether: $40
5. Clutching: Pick your poison.
6. Replace jackshaft with 2015 updated part: $75
-Better durability.
7. Update front end to 2016+ geometry: $450-750
-Requires half the amount of counter steering to maintain a sidehill. If you don’t dangle on the slopes this one moves down the list a little.
-36” or 38” stance is a preference thing. I like 38” but I’m a bigger guy. Staying 38” is the cheaper option for you.
8. Hood with intake and headlight delete: $400
- 12lb loss
-Fixes intake temp sensor location.
-Lets underhood heat out.
9. Toms Shock Revalve: $360?
- Make your ride enjoyable.
-Get spacer put in front shocks if you go to 36” front end.
10. Belt drive with oil injection delete, D&R kit: $1,050
- 11.5lb loss
- More responsive.
- Gear up to 2.52 or 2.42 ratio.
- Pre-mix gas seems to run cleaner. I mix mine 32:1 even though 40:1 is a common recommendation.
11. 3" PC track: $500 Used or $950? new.

Anytime mods-Strip/streamline some "unnecessary" parts:
- Underhood foam and clutch side duct
- Skid idler wheels
- Trim Skag bolts
- Snow Flap
- SLP LED tail light: $20
- Loose 6lb


That Is a great list! Is the temp sensor location a big issue? Do the sleds start running weird?(what happens?) Is there a how to?

Back to the idler wheel thing. It looks like they can't be flipped around. The wheels will hit the shock shaft. Nobody really mentions it's something I should do. I'm probably not going to worry about it.

I will for sure do the 36" front end at some point. But for now I need to just ride the thing.

Are all the gripper skis the same?

I live in the mountains and have been sledding out there for 5 years, but I have been on dragon. So pumped to be on something newer!
 

kiliki

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Lifetime Membership
Dec 27, 2008
13,213
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Nampa, Idaho
the idler wheels are located on the rails and to the front of the sled where the track starts to make the turn up into the tunnel.
the ski are the same but the insert went from standard to metric around 2011? i think. use the arctic cat rubbers and just cut the row of nubs off the bottom side where they hit the ribs of the skis.
 
Last edited:

boondocker97

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Oct 30, 2008
4,074
2,794
113
Billings MT
^ I forgot to put that on the list. Kit is pretty cheap to do it, just a little labor intensive.

The air temp sensor relocation is one of those things I feel like some people have act up and some don't. Factors like snow on the hood blocking vents to keep heat from escaping, length of time sitting with the sled off (helping a friend dig out or eating lunch), or slow speed riding (through trees or descending a hill) with vents blocked are going to affect the heat soak in the intake. Basically what can happen is the intake sensor is close to the beginning of the intake system (up by the headlight), and by the time the air makes it's way down to the front of the motor it can be a little warmer and cause a momentary rich condition when you hit the throttle. When the air speed picks up in the intake it cleans up.
 

Old & slow

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Feb 18, 2017
727
393
63
Alberta
Hey everyone. I just picked up a 2014 M8000, 153" Track. The sled is in excellent shape, only 700 miles.

It has a speedwerx can (the quieter one) and racewerx front bumber. Other than that the sled is stock. I'll be riding at 9k feet and above. As far as i can tell the clutching is stock besides 63g weights. I also have 68g weights. I think the 63's should be good right?

People suggest an anti-stab kit and moving the front idler wheels to the inside. As far as i know BDX are the only people that make them. Im also looking to get a skid plate, does anyone have a recommendation for one that protects the most?

Is there anything else you guys would recommend? Thanks!

<a href="http://s239.photobucket.com/user/nickster914/media/14%20snopro2.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff114/nickster914/14%20snopro2.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 14 snopro2.jpg"/></a>

Without repeating everything skis and clutching are a must do for me, you have had solid suggestions that work. I added the steering bushing upgrade, for me this is a must Racin station has one along with Canada sled parts. Things that don't cost are suspension setup there is a lot to be gained or lost in the set up. There has been lots of discussion on this subject but everybody is different you will need to fine tune to your riding type and style. I use days where visibility is not great to try new settings. One other thing I forgot to mention is venting, I used the complete side panels from AC. They work good, quick and easy to install. Pricey and vulnerable to trees. Definitely worth a look.
 
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F

fishstick

Banned
Oct 4, 2014
103
28
28
Cant keep saying this enough. While the factory 36" is a huge improvement over the 38" the Barcode 365 kit is the same improvement over the factory 36" kit. And no need to get new shocks or have them shortened.
 

Speed Shop Inc.

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 4, 2009
421
205
43
Cannon Falls, MN
www.speedshopinc.com
For Bolt On Power

This is what you want for awesome bolt on power!!


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Our Mountain Series Performance Bolt On Kit cranks out serious reliable and powerful horsepower!
We have put together the best bolt on parts for the Arctic Cat M8000 models. Not only does this package make killer horsepower and torque gains, but it also performs on the snow.
Here is a list of the items included in the package.
-Our SSI stainless steel muffler is 17 lbs lighter than stock, is full baffled, and makes 2-3 more horsepower than stock.
-The SSI stainless steel Y pipe is the most powerful version for the 800ho motor. It produces 7 more hp in the mid range and 4 more lb/f t of torque. The peak horsepower is 3-5 over stock and has a much broader powerband compared to stock. You can really feel the gains with this performance manifold.
-Our Mountain Series Billet Head Kit gives the motor tons on grunty powerful torque gain and instant throttle response. Get back a lot of the power you lost at higher altitudes with this head. AWESOME BOLT ON HORSEPOWER!! Extra cooling capacity too.
-The Boyesen Rage Cage Reed Valves have very quick throttle response with the help of dual stage reed petals. The extra airflow picked up 6 hp in the mid range and 4 peak when tested at Dynotech Research.
-Then put the power to the track with our Pro Shift Clutch Kit. The combination of new springs, a custom machined helix and our Pro Mag weights provide super quick throttle response in deep snow and a powerful pull up the mountain.
-Offset timing key to advance the timing slightly for improved throttle response and increased power. (not shown in picture)
This kit will make your machine into a whole new animal! A lot less weight, so much more power, torque, and also extremely reliable!
We have this kit available for 2012-2017 Models, and it doesn’t require a fuel controller.

800 mountain performance kit.jpg
 
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