Throttle response
- Thread starter CHARIOT OF DOOM
- Start date
yes this has been a wear item over the last couple years we don't see very many of them. I have ripped them apart and seen the check valves totally side ways in there. I think they might come that way form the factory sometimes. but na guys never feel it like we do.
one way to combat this is to run your exhaust valves off the throttle body vaccume side. and plug the case stuff. fyi
:face-icon-small-coo
one way to combat this is to run your exhaust valves off the throttle body vaccume side. and plug the case stuff. fyi
:face-icon-small-coo
N
rave signal
Good Thinking! Are you bypassing the solenoids as well? Im guessing the ECM would not be happy with that. Are you also using the throttle bodies for your 3 bar map sensor signal?
I wonder if the rave manifold is even necessary on the boosted application?
Good Thinking! Are you bypassing the solenoids as well? Im guessing the ECM would not be happy with that. Are you also using the throttle bodies for your 3 bar map sensor signal?
I wonder if the rave manifold is even necessary on the boosted application?
Z
This is the culprit. On the tip nipple you should be able to blow through, not suck. The bottom you should be able to suck not blow. If anyone has any mysterious rave codes this is could be your problem.
Z
I am having the same issue with mine but I am not getting any codes. I checked the check valve between the reeds by sucking and blowing and it seems good. I am just not getting enough vacuum to keep the rave valves closed when idling. It will even sputter and stall when idling sometimes. Any help would be greatly appreciated. How are you guys rigging them up off your throttle bodies to trouble shoot this?
F
I checked them today on mine, they don't close on idle, but need a little rpm...4000 and you see them close..
I have been getting a few rave valve codes the last few days, talking iwith Linderman he says pull the hoses off the raves, then push closed all the way and set close postion on budds or can doo, then let go and where they rest is the mid postion.. And pull out for full open
I will see if that helps, codes seam to go away at elevation and only come at lower elevations and light goes back out at idle
Hope that helps
I have been getting a few rave valve codes the last few days, talking iwith Linderman he says pull the hoses off the raves, then push closed all the way and set close postion on budds or can doo, then let go and where they rest is the mid postion.. And pull out for full open
I will see if that helps, codes seam to go away at elevation and only come at lower elevations and light goes back out at idle
Hope that helps
time to test my check valves out
Had the fuel pressure reglator issue (oem) and it backfired quite a few times. Thing has been throwing CEL like nuts lately, hit the dealer, 255 counts of RAVES not returning to closed.
Lets hope the a new valve fixes this because the bottom end was PRETTY bad on the sled, and started very poorly when it was warm.
Had the fuel pressure reglator issue (oem) and it backfired quite a few times. Thing has been throwing CEL like nuts lately, hit the dealer, 255 counts of RAVES not returning to closed.
Lets hope the a new valve fixes this because the bottom end was PRETTY bad on the sled, and started very poorly when it was warm.
2
just fixed an ongoing p 1477 on my tss etec turbo, turned out to be that the bellow on the rave valve had popped off the bottom smaller nipple where it connects to the aluminum rave valve block. I ran it like this for over a thousand kms as it didnt cause major driveability problems, but was hard to start sometimes taking three or more pulls. It also had a gurgle in the bottom end that would come and go that i just equated to the exhaust getting plugged in deep snow. Glued them back together with spray glue after cleaning with brake kleen and now its a different animal, the instaboost pipe lights the 2876 like its a supercharger.
I too had an ongoing code. P1427. CEL starting popping on and off one day and then just stayed on. First trip to dealer and they said my stator was on its way out and the code was a "failure to recognize Thermo Couple Module" which is the egt in the tuned pipe. Replaced the Module, and the stator (without removing the engine... not fun) and still had the 1427 light. Another trip to the dealer and they said there must be a short between the Module and ECM. Pulled connections, Tested wires, grounds, etc and couldn't find anything wrong. Plugged it all back together and started it up, no more CEL. All I can guess is one of the connections must have been loose or had some crap in it. Noticeably better idle and response without it throwing that particular code. Electrical problems are never fun.
sounds misserable, mine are all rave related codes. still waiting on a check valve assembly, but in the mean time, still super fun sled, but it definately idles poorly and is really poor running when out of boost moving in and out of engagement.
ive been dreaming on a way to keep the valve sensor happy and go back to a spring style like on the old carbed ones. those worked awesome and sure were simple.
I was reading this thread to post until I saw this, it is what I was going to say, We had a 2015 Summit in with strange popping and runability issues. One tech did all the usual stuff, we visually checked the valves, it had a power valve not centering code or something like that. Couldn't figure it out, customer took it back to put more miles on, get it out of breakin. Came back the next day, same issues, another tech put it on the computer and reset the TPS values and the power valve values, it fixed the issue.
D
So I was in Brycters thread asking about the changes to the rave valve opening time. I figured over here might be better so I dont hijack his thread. I have a 2014 XM 162x3 with a TSS water to air kit on it. Sled runs great but wouldnt mind cleaning up the mid range just a bit. Starts and idles great, and past 6000rpm its unreal, but the midrange definitely isnt "snappy". Is this just normal with these sleds or should a guy be playing with things. I should mention it is on break in mode with a new engine so perhaps that is it? I probably should throw a new set of reeds in anyways as I think they are original with 5300km on them (about 1000 on boost).
This is the culprit. On the tip nipple you should be able to blow through, not suck. The bottom you should be able to suck not blow. If anyone has any mysterious rave codes this is could be your problem.
Does anyone know this part #?
This is the culprit. On the tip nipple you should be able to blow through, not suck. The bottom you should be able to suck not blow. If anyone has any mysterious rave codes this is could be your problem.
I looked at a 2011 freeride, and it does mot have this setup. It has the green valves who was found from 2007 on the 800r.
Would it be a good idea to go back to the older style??
Daltech
so after reading through this it's clearly a vacuum problem on mine as well. I pulled the reeds last night and they were fine, installed a new manifold and took it out and tested it. I'm still running into the same bottom end problem. I brought it home and took the black cover off and started it up, i had to manually push the reeds in a about a 1/4-3/8 of an inch and it idled smoother. I also noticed that if i started it up and didn't push them in that the raves would suck in at about 4k rpms, right where the bottom end bobble initiates. before the issue started the thing snapped like a big bore.
What I'm curious about is that i'm running at sea level to 2000 ft, does the more dense air have more of an impact on the vacuum sytem?
I have to pull the new manifold out yet tonight to see if that went again, luckily i bought two of them so i would have a spare. So if it's not the manifold I'm assuming it's going to be some sort of a leak in the system? Also, am i possibly farther ahead with looking into having two custom brass check valves made to replace the stock plastic manifold if that went out again in 30 feet?
Thats what I've come up with so far, any imput is greatly appreciated.
What I'm curious about is that i'm running at sea level to 2000 ft, does the more dense air have more of an impact on the vacuum sytem?
I have to pull the new manifold out yet tonight to see if that went again, luckily i bought two of them so i would have a spare. So if it's not the manifold I'm assuming it's going to be some sort of a leak in the system? Also, am i possibly farther ahead with looking into having two custom brass check valves made to replace the stock plastic manifold if that went out again in 30 feet?
Thats what I've come up with so far, any imput is greatly appreciated.
F
Well going threw the same issues with my 11 Aerocharger.. I don't have the fancy valve in above picture plumbed in and wondering if this would prevent the cel from comming on/off.. It seams elevation always play a role in it happening.. Where there is times up high it runs ok
If I start the sled, on idle the valves almost close up
I have had the dealer run threw all check valves, vacuumed leak test, replace rave diaframs.. They said they reset the raves..
Now I do know I have used this same setup for years and cel come on at low elevations, but once at 5000 feet or so, it would be fine and no more lights rest of day till I was comming back off the hill
One thing I seen on the 2011 ECM is the vent off the ECM had a line that I had though was vented to outside.. But now is missing
If I start the sled, on idle the valves almost close up
I have had the dealer run threw all check valves, vacuumed leak test, replace rave diaframs.. They said they reset the raves..
Now I do know I have used this same setup for years and cel come on at low elevations, but once at 5000 feet or so, it would be fine and no more lights rest of day till I was comming back off the hill
One thing I seen on the 2011 ECM is the vent off the ECM had a line that I had though was vented to outside.. But now is missing
