S
I'm having a issue with my wifes sled not staying in alignment. Bolt is coming lose causing track to chew up my hyfax. The nut was tight to hold bolt in place. Any ideas on how to stop it from coming loose again?
aligning track
- Thread starter SpencerA
- Start date
V
Which bolt? The rear horizontal bolt used to push the rear axle back? If so, it should have a jamb nut on it.
S
the bolt is coming lose. Yes it has a jamb nut.
you bought it in aug. and chewed thorogh hyfax already? throw some threadlock on it and wait for snow.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350789
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350789
Last edited:
S
no this is our original 488 she rode the previous year. I bought a newer 97 this year. Planning on using the 1990 for guests.
S
I'll try throwing some thead lock on but I'm still puzzled on how that nut jamb came lose. I know it was tight when I aligned it. And its the same side.
it's a lock nut when tightened, not really a jamb nut, jamb nuts fit very tightly on the threads. the threads are probably not tight as they were 20 years ago. the right way to fix it would be replace the bolt and nut. I would probably just double nut it though. threadlock would be the lazy man option. newer skids like 98 rmk used a long custom nut, lengthend out the thread contact a lot, not sure if those would fit.
V
I just figured the "long" nut helped you get the wrench on it since they were tucked behind the rear axle wheel.
Spencer, sounds like you need to book a trip to Puyallup and check out the used parts sections for some pieces.
Spencer, sounds like you need to book a trip to Puyallup and check out the used parts sections for some pieces.
S
I'll try replacing bolt and nuts and see if that works. Thanks for your help guys
The threads in the block may be stripped.
Might need to add a HeliCoil http://www.helicoil.in/insert in there
Might need to add a HeliCoil http://www.helicoil.in/insert in there
Last edited:
S
So finally got my sled lifted and took the bolts out. I looked at the clips and the plastic from the rails seemed to collect on the front of the clips. If the track is not aligned right is that where I'll notice it? I assumed it would wear more on the side of clip since track is not straight. Looking at bot sides of track the clips looked pretty dead on so no sure if that was the problem. Wear was more noticable up front. Track speed is very slow on this sled and not ridden in icy conditions so I don't think heat is a issue. All boggey wheels are good and being a 2up has plenty of them.
On another not track might seemed a little loose could that be the issue. Seems like I remember about a 1/2" is all I should get from track being pulled down from skid.
On another not track might seemed a little loose could that be the issue. Seems like I remember about a 1/2" is all I should get from track being pulled down from skid.
S
Well got it aligned the best I could. I'm running it a little looser. The wear seems to be coming up front on the rails. Track seemed really tight up there. I figure now I have 1.5 inches and 2 fingers when I pull the track down in the middle. How else can I tell if my tension is right. Everyone says look at owners manual but I don't have one for this 1990.
V
It sounds to me like you might be loose enough to start ratcheting the track over the drivers. That is your first clue that it is too loose.
S
From all the threads I've read Its seems thats kind of the norm for gap. Too tight rob hp to loose ratchet. 1" to 1.5" seems to be what most people suggest. Of course most people I talked to ride even looser but they have a set up that allows for it. For my set up it will be my wife just putting around on the trails. My guess is thats why it was wearing the hyfax down since it looked pretty aligned
What is your suggestion for how tight it should be?
V
This isn't a factory spec, but if it doesn't ratchet that is a start. I like to have the back end suspended then reach up into the track and pop the upper leg to see if it hits the tunnel or droops too low to drag on the suspension between the drivers and the upper rear bogeys. If it is tight enough to stay suspended between these two points I'm pretty happy. If you can bounce it up and hit the tunnel it will likely do this when you get up to speed and this will scrub speed from the rubber on aluminum. Also, it needs to be tight enough that when it is forced around the drivers that it is pulled down to the bend in the rails and hopefully the front bogeys. Otherwise, it will "slap" back and wear the hyfax in front of the bend.
When I long-tracked my XLT the inside of the tunnel was black where the track was rubbing. Once it was cleaned off and tightened up, it spun quite well.
When I long-tracked my XLT the inside of the tunnel was black where the track was rubbing. Once it was cleaned off and tightened up, it spun quite well.
S
Factory spec calls for 3/8"-1/2" of drop with 10lbs. When I adjusted it to this it was way too tight up on the front rails. Track wanted to bind and it was definately putting more load on the motor. Going to try 1" of sag and go from there. Track feels much better when I run it. Still really tight on front rails but I really don't want to go any looser. Would rather have a little tighter then looser.
Does the track loosen up a bit once back on the ground?
Does the track loosen up a bit once back on the ground?
Yes it will loosen up because the front of the suspension collapses a bit due to the weight of the sled when it's on the ground. If it is so tight when in the air that it loads the motor you should probably tighten the limiter straps a bit. I always run my track a bit on the loose side. As long as it doesn't ratchet on a hard climb I figure it's good.
