Rolling a chaincase on a 91 sks

mcdbrendon · Nov 11, 2010

I have a 91 polaris sks with a rotax 670 in it and wanting to go to a longer track. I purchased a 151 track and rail extensions and chaincase templates from bent wrench but havent recieved them yet (been almost 3 weeks since i ordered) Does anyone have any tips, tricks, pics or advice on doing this? Also does anyone know of anyplace else I can buy templates?

sled_guy · Nov 12, 2010

I probably have the original templates from my 91 somewhere, I can look.

Take the bellypan off to do the work. I've done them without doing that, but it's good to have straight on access to everything when you are doing it.

Make sure and use solid rivets when riveting the templates and such on.

Dry fit the chaincase with the shafts in it before putting the bearings on the clutch side to make sure they line up in the holes right and don't pre-load the bearings strangely.

sled_guy

volcano buster · Nov 12, 2010

Try this link. Guys name is Doug. He is from Talkeetna AK and used to be on the forum more than most folks. Surprised his website is still up and functioning. The '91 shouldn't be too different than his XLT.

http://www.mtaonline.net/~mhbs/Moorefamily/tmx.html

mcdbrendon · Nov 12, 2010

That would be great if you still have them I live in West Jordan so not to far from you. What did you do about the rear suspension brackets? The kit I orded from Chris had templates and rear suspension brackets and the skid plate but I cant get him to respond to my emails. Thanks for Posting that link I did run across it when I did a search on doing this.

mcdbrendon · Nov 13, 2010

I noticed when I pulled my rear skid it is missing the 2 links that run parellel with the shock what is the purpouse of those?

sled_guy · Nov 14, 2010

The 91 suspension didn't have those rods.

I built a set of rear suspension brackets out of stainless when I did mine.

sled_guy

mcdbrendon · Nov 16, 2010

Ok I finally heard from Chris should have some templates here this week sometime! Does anyone know if the 9 tooth drivers will fit with a 2 inch paddle with the rolled chaincase? Should I use 2 drivers or 4 driver setup? Currently has a 1 3/4 paddle with 2 8 tooth drivers

sled_guy · Nov 18, 2010

Every roll I've seen will easily allow 2" paddles. On mine there was nearly 3" of clearance.

4 drivers are a pain, you have to put the shaft in and then install the chaincase. At most I would use 3, the 2 center ones and one on the chaincase side. That way you can still get the shaft in and out with the chaincase installed.

sled_guy

mcdbrendon · Nov 18, 2010

Is there any benifit to running mor than just the 2 drivers? Installing the chaincase after isnt a big deal might actually be easier unless its not doable with rolling it?

volcano buster · Nov 18, 2010

When I installed a 1.75" on 8 tooth drivers on my XLT I had to take the chain case off as well. Not a big deal, just tell yourself that is what you are going to do and just do it. I think it actually takes less time than trying to fight it otherwise because you will likely end up doing it anyway.

I typically had to run the track tighter with 2 drivers to keep it from ratcheting. With the 3 or 4 drivers there is more contact surface so you can get by with a little less tension.

mcdbrendon · Nov 21, 2010

Well got the templates yesterday and started drillin holes and guess what the bolt holes on the template that hold the case on dont line up. One is close and the other is way off. I am goning to put the shafts in and line things up where they spin true and drill the mounting holes. Anyone have any better ideas? Also the instructions say nothing about re locating the footboard coolers I had to remove the case side one does it need moved back or modified in anyway? Would I be better off to do the tunnel coolers instead? Whats involved in doing that? Also the instructions say something about a chaincase cup anyone know anything about that?

mcdbrendon · Nov 27, 2010

Ok have the chaincase in and all the holes drilled for the rear suspension but where they want the holes for the front of the skid will extend below the tunnel thought about making brackets like for the rear but once again the damn running board coolers are in the way. after all that work trying to make them fit back in they bite me in the butt. Any ideas other than toss them?

jsledder · Dec 7, 2010

The footboards stay put, you should have a template to cut out the stirrup to make room for the case relocate and the hoses.

The chaincase cup is a necessity, it closes off the hole where the chaincase sticks down and is now vulnerable to damage.

The suspension bolts... get the sled on a strap or something hanging from your ceiling or a cherry picker, find a way to get the skid pulled back in the track so it's fairly tight and then lower your sled down onto the skid to the front bolt is about 1-1/2" or so up from the running board, make some marks for the rear brackets and the front holes, lift the sled up high enough to work under there with a straight edge and find somewhere to measure from and make sure the holes on both sides are in the same spot and drill. Mine ended up being right on the edge of the front mount so I put another plate in beside it and riveted in there good so there was something other than just the tunnel to support it. Mount your rear plates and drop it back down over the skid and bolt it together. Your bolt location in the front could be different, just get it set in place and look it over and see how it looks, not too high/not too low.... hard to explain.

The kits I always use are the Bentwrench kit so if your using something different, results may vary slightly.

You can run the stock 9 toothers with just the 2 inner ones just fine, with the smaller drivers you have to run your track tighter to prevent ratcheting from going around the tighter diameter and 4 drivers are best in that situation but with the D&R you should be just fine with the 2.

mcdbrendon · Dec 7, 2010

Yeah I used a bent wrench kit honestly wasnt very happy with it but its all together now I just put the 8 tooth driver back in never tried the 9 tooth but when I was measuring it would have only given me about a half to quarter inch clearance on the jackshaft. I have the running board coolers still in managed to get them all hooked up royal pain though. Rear suspension doesent seem to have the travel it did before though and I cant see why. I will try and get some pics posted

X2Freeride · Dec 8, 2010

mcdbrendon said:
Is there any benifit to running mor than just the 2 drivers? Installing the chaincase after isnt a big deal might actually be easier unless its not doable with rolling it?

If your running non extrovert drivers your going to have to run at least 3 otherwise the track is going to ratchet on long pulls. Id just run extroverts then you can go to 2 drivers and run the track as loose as your want. Typically Anti ratchet drivers and drop and roll cases go hand in hand.

X2Freeride · Dec 8, 2010

mcdbrendon said:
Yeah I used a bent wrench kit honestly wasnt very happy with it but its all together now I just put the 8 tooth driver back in never tried the 9 tooth but when I was measuring it would have only given me about a half to quarter inch clearance on the jackshaft. I have the running board coolers still in managed to get them all hooked up royal pain though. Rear suspension doesent seem to have the travel it did before though and I cant see why. I will try and get some pics posted

Something isnt right then. you should absolutely not have lost any travel in your rear skid. Take pictures of the case your Front arm and the rear arm of the skid. Did you change the mounting points at all?

Also did anyone tell you that drop and roll cases make the sled steer alot harder because it gives you alot more ski pressure? you kinda have to resetup your suspension to compensate.

jsledder · Dec 8, 2010

X2Freeride said:
If your running non extrovert drivers your going to have to run at least 3 otherwise the track is going to ratchet on long pulls. Id just run extroverts then you can go to 2 drivers and run the track as loose as your want. Typically Anti ratchet drivers and drop and roll cases go hand in hand.

Extro's are the way to go, unless your on a budget, you do have to trim your rails when doing those too which opens you up to track stabbage unless you get the Anti-stab kit. I didn't, and first ride out stabbed my track and ruined a 151 track and got to know the hood of my sled real well that day.

X2Freeride · Dec 8, 2010

jsledder said:
Extro's are the way to go, unless your on a budget, you do have to trim your rails when doing those too which opens you up to track stabbage unless you get the Anti-stab kit. I didn't, and first ride out stabbed my track and ruined a 151 track and got to know the hood of my sled real well that day.

Ouch man, been there done that. Never stabbed a track but I have never been over the bars a few times.

mcdbrendon · Dec 8, 2010

The anti ratchet drivers wont work on my track it doesent have every window opened. What makes dropping the case ratchet the track any worse than the factory setup? I moved both front and rear suspension hangers back 3 inches the instructions only said to move the front but I couldnt even get the rear close that way so then I moved the rear to. I am thinking that maybe it needs to go back even more?

This was before I did anything you cant really see any of the suspension though

These 2 are after with the 151 track on but you can see how collapsed the shock is. Can anyone tell me why the previous owner leghthend those rear arms if you look close you can see the welds and little extension pieces in them

This is the right footboard and how i cut it and ran the cooler lines

mcdbrendon · Dec 8, 2010

X2Freeride said:
Something isnt right then. you should absolutely not have lost any travel in your rear skid. Take pictures of the case your Front arm and the rear arm of the skid. Did you change the mounting points at all?

Also did anyone tell you that drop and roll cases make the sled steer alot harder because it gives you alot more ski pressure? you kinda have to resetup your suspension to compensate.

What needs to be re done on the front? It originally had the stock 13 inch shocks and I upgraded to 15 inch fox shocks to give a little better height

Rolling a chaincase on a 91 sks

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