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136 to 144 track on a 97 summit

Summit97

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Pipestone Mn
I'm putting a 144 track on my 97 Summit. I'm going to move the suspension back. what should I do with the idler wheels? Thanks!!!


Summit97
 

AKDoug

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The idler wheels stay the same. You just move the whold skid back as a unit. It'll move back 2" or so. Drill a new hole for the front and move the inner little steel pieces on the inside of the tunnel back to the new holes. Move the rear mounts back two inches. However, you'll will have issues getting clearance with a 2" track without rolling the chain case. If I had to do it again I would probably just go with 8 tooth drivers.

144 rails off of an early 2000's skid will bolt right onto that skid and you don't have to do a setback at all.
 

Bendy

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Skid

Stock was 8 tooth. You'll need a 7 tooth driver. Or you can have your 8 tooth lathed down, or as was posted drop and roll the chain case. I've done all three. And yes just move the skid back, you may need to build, install or add to the existing rear drop bracket. I always would just rivet a 1/8" thick square aluminum sheet to the outside of the tunnel riveted on with steel rivets to reinforce my new front hole. I believe 2" back will work, but I can physically check 'cause my uncle has my old 670X.
 

AKDoug

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Good post Bendy, I'd totally forgotten that they came stock with 8 tooth drivers. Did the '97 have that funky 1 3/4 track down the middle with 2" paddles down the sides like the Summit X? It's only been about 12 years since I did my chaincase roll and setback :D
 
D
Jan 17, 2009
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136 to 144

a 144track is 8 inches longer than a 136 thus you have to move the front mounts back 4 inches which makes for a killer aproach angle for an older sled
i know that a 98 670 summit x had 9 tooth drivers with a 1.75 track they were advertised with a 2 inch track when we pre ordered them but to run a 2 inch you had to run 8 tooth drivers not sure on a 97 if they were stock 8 or 9 tooth .
i rolled my chaincase when i extended the sled to a 144 i moved my skid back
4inches and back and down what i rolled the case on the back brackets i built plates that i welded to the stock drop brackets to move down and back the iders had to be moved down so the 2 inch track didnt rub on the tunnel i

i have extended sevral sleds by moving the rails back and they all worked great dont kow i would do it on a new sled with out reasearching it wouldnt wanna stap a rail through the track i sure hope this helps i could probably get my daughter to take poics of my 98 x if you need them let me know
ahve a great day and have fun sledding dan
 

AKDoug

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Man, I should have stayed out of this thread. 4" is correct, 2" is not. It's been too long since I've done the project. However, my 4" setback when I used a 151" 2003 skid to run a 159" was a total disaster. I never could get the geometry currect and it ate rail tips unless I ran the track super tight.

Bottom line, the easiest way to run a 144 on that sled is to simply get a set of ZX 144" rails and bolt them on.
 

Summit97

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Thanks!! I got a 144 ZX skid. When I put it next to my 136 it was the same. Big John helped me with the measurements. He said 3 1/2" back 1' Down and the back brackets 2" lower than the front. I asked him why my old skid and my new skid was the same. He told me because ski doo just moved the skids back to fit a 144. I'm just wondering if you lower the idler wheels or leave them or don't use them?


Summit97
 

AKDoug

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Next time you talk to Big John, tell him Doug from Alaska says hi. Not sure what you are referring to in regards to the idler wheels. All the idler wheels are connected to the skid. I know for a fact that I ran 144 rails from a ZX on my sled, they were definately different than my '98 136 rails. The rest of the suspension; the front arm, rear arm, shock, etc.. are the same. The 144 rails just stick out the back a little further.
 
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