considering turbo

gus bohne · Mar 29, 2011

Taylor I was not refering to a 3076 NO sir,, too big on the hot side and not enuf backpressure to drive the turbo..

2876 .86 ar.. god loves big compressors and so do 2 strokes..

we use that turbo all the way up to 34 psi on the 800's..its a doo all turbo for the doo guuys.

plenums and plumbing are paramount too,, you can always e mail me
gus.bohne@comcast.net

I do net get any pms,, all are locked up with lawyers for our friend the litigator...:wave::wave::wave::wave::wave:

taylorbok · Mar 29, 2011

the guys I want to talk to are coming out of the wood works now, I have a deal pending on a used kit, I would still like to build my own to get exactly what I want. badass1000 pretty much has exactly what I want, badass1000 can you send me some pictures of your machine? did you buy the garret turbo and put that housing on it? or did they build it for you at tial?

lookup · Mar 29, 2011

the technical support is what you pay for when buying a kit and the endless phone calls you will make to get your answers

badass1000 · Mar 29, 2011

do a search. I posted some pics last year when I first did it. you can give me a email and I will send some pics.
I ordered the turbo through some one else exactly the way I wanted it.

Bendy · Mar 29, 2011

Exactly!

I agree with Lookup 100%. I deal with Bryce @ Turboboyz. He always answers the phone and he will take as much time as needed to make sure my questions are answered to my satisfaction. I didn't buy a kit from Bryce, but I bought my turbo and some of the air/fuel components I wanted for my setup. When I turbo my XP, it will be an Aero kit from Turboboyz!

taylorbok · Mar 30, 2011

any one run a ported cylidner with a turbo? good, bad or ugly? what oil restrictor do you guys use? and for oil and coolant fittings on the turbo do you guys buy kits or do you just go down to the fitting shop and buy the individual fittings and hose lengths?

taylorbok · Mar 30, 2011

are people leaving oil injection or should I remove it? I feel like it would be more reliable with pre mix.

swrev · Mar 30, 2011

Oil delete on mine. I would only consider leaving if you want your system easier to return to stock w/out having to put on as many parts back on.

lookup · Mar 30, 2011

I really do not see a need for ported cylinders if you want more power turn up the boost now a big bore would be fun to try with a turbo

Wheel House Motorsports · Mar 30, 2011

run stock.. when you blow it up you will find that a good choice..

oil delete results in more consistant results.. and cleans up the engine bay for plumbing turbo stuff. less to worry about, and your getting proper ratios under boost as well.

as for oiling parts.. if you buy a turbo from any of the builders on here they could set you up with most of the fittings to go with it. might pay a few more bucks then what the parts are worth, but beats driving in circles to pick up all the parts.

taylorbok · Mar 30, 2011

I don't care about putting it back to stock, it will probably never happen the sled is far from mint so i'm not going to get any more for it stock or modded, may as well take it off. eff it.

do i have to plug every single line or tie them together or do they have check valves as to not let anything out.

Do I leave the shaft and stuff in there behind the block off plate?

Just cut the cable off or un-hook it from the housing?

as for the ported cylinder I thought it might make the engine breath easier with all that air being rammed down its throat, didnt care about doing it for more power just thought I would do it when i had motor apart (if i was going to I wont now that i have talked to a couple guys)

taylorbok · Mar 31, 2011

looks like the guy sold the used kit to someone else so I am going to build my own.

Do the oil tanks for the turbo have any anti spill out/ anti leak device in them?

also still curious about the oil injection delete? does anyone know if the bearings require that oil bath or is the fuel mixture good enough?

Wheel House Motorsports · Mar 31, 2011

you put a plate over where the pump was, then just put a tube down into that with oil in it to keep the oil bath going..

as for tanks, depends on how you design yours! i know mulitple ways to help deal with leaks/spillage from rollovers.

taylorbok · Apr 1, 2011

so where that tube is that goes to the top of the oil tank fill that with oil and just plug it off? or get a small tank to feed from?

question about bov's gonna use the tial but just wondering where do I put the vacuum reference tube for it? backside of the carbs?

also do I need to pressure both the dpm line and the top cap of the carb?

do you guys take out your springs in the exhaust valves and do the whole set screw thing to hold them together so they will open sooner? (i think thats what its for) cpi does it in there kits

Wheel House Motorsports · Apr 1, 2011

as for lines, build a plate to cover the hole in the oil injectio pumps place.. tap it, put a barb fitting and maybe 1' or so of 3/8" clear line.. throw some oil in it and cap it.. keep and eye on it if it does use a little.

for bov signal, there is a little flat on the back of the carb when you have them in hand i could explain that you drill and tap.

for boost referencing the carbs, the big 3/8" line that t's goign into the bottom of the carbs you jsut connect together. you pressurize the dpm ports on the carbs and your done.

for the exhaust valves, thats up to you.

taylorbok · Apr 1, 2011

Im sure ill figure the bov tap thing but everyone says to tap the top cap of the carb and boost reference that

Wheel House Motorsports · Apr 1, 2011

dont need it. trust me, it works awsome without it. blow off valve will make sure you dont have run on.

taylorbok · Apr 1, 2011

ski-dooin it you have been a huge help thanks to everyone else as well. ill post pics as i make progress... which will be slow and steady, its gonna be a summer project but I'm not done sledding yet so cant get started just yet.

brycter · Apr 4, 2011

taylorbok said:
Im sure ill figure the bov tap thing but everyone says to tap the top cap of the carb and boost reference that

you don't need it. on the flat slide carbs there is not enough surface area to hold the sdlide open. Now if you were on round slides that is a differnt story. but even then just drill a hole throught he slide and build higher psi on the top then the bottom and Walla you got it!! Just like a sprinkler valve!

oh yeah. Guys that are building kit for them selves. look for inspiration everywhere and any where. it will blow your mind where things come from.

LOL:wave:

taylorbok · Apr 5, 2011

as for wiring my gauges, fuel pump, oil pump etc. will that one plug above the carbs be enough to power everything?

considering turbo

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