Turbo RT : going to do it!

pyromarty · Oct 28, 2010

So after a long summer of thinking about it, researching it and doing some sleep-sledding with a turbo i'm starting the turbo RT. it's a little late but i have access to tons of cnc and metal fab equip so i can get things taken care of pretty quick. tonight is the first night on the project, i've cut up an old muffler can and used the flange fitting and the 90deg elbow to make the connection from the pipe to the turbo flange. tmmr i'm going to have the turbo flange water jetted out and then swap it into place and ditch my "mock up" one. the next few weeks will be fabbing the oil tank, charge box, boost tubes and exhaust turnout.
let me know what you guys think, not worried about the fitment or anything mechanical. fueling shouldn't be a problem with some help from the pros down the street (Turbo Performance, Thanks for offering to help! they are the bomb!) , with an O2 sensor and some egt gauges. i really enjoy tinkering with things so i'm kind of excited about this!!
here's a few pics from tonight and a few of the messy shop, sorry it's not clean but i really don't have the time to polish it up.
hour count on the fab so far. --2Hrs

Messy shop and some toys

Lathe, compressor and 3phase converter.

Tig and some junk

Made the turbo pipe tonight.

here it is in the sled, don't know if i'm keeping this turbo or not, but no big deal. i can cut the flange off and put a different one on if needed.

one more of the turbo "fitted" to the sled. need to weld on spring hoops and make the lower mounts.

So now i need to either make an oil box or see if i'm getting an aerocharger.. make the air box for the throttle bodies, boost tubes and then the exhaust dump.
i'm thinking about getting an old intercooler for a fender mount and then welding on pipe and making it into the charge box/intercooler type thing.
replacing the entire stock air box with this combo.

turbo800 · Oct 28, 2010

Should be fun. What about oiling?

pyromarty · Oct 28, 2010

Forgot to post that,
going to make an oil box, and use the greylor pump.
i have an electrical engineer buddy who is going to put his O-scope
on the sleds power output and see what kind of waveform it's putting out,
since i've heard it's kind of a dirty DC he'll design me a circuit to put out nice clean DC with enough power to run the greylor.

turbo800 · Oct 28, 2010

Should be easy. I use a bridge rectifier together with a small battery, runs everything from the EGTs to Fuel Pump to AFR gauge.

Turbo looks a little small for a 1000cc's, flange looks like a GT25 or maybe even a Subi style. Easy to change out if it dont work for ya.

pyromarty · Oct 28, 2010

correct on the subi turbo. it's off a 04 forester.
josh from TP was saying it might not work but he was checking into it for me. that's where i'm wondering... keep the oiled turb or bail out and get an aerocharger.

turbo800 · Oct 29, 2010

I'm running the Mitsu Evo turbo on my 800 REV. I love the quick spool of the Mitsu, but like the simple oiling system of the Aero. Be careful with the greylor pump, Ive heard of a few CPI setups loosing turbos due to the oil pump.

The spec sheet I read from Mitsu recommends 8psi oil pressure @ idle and about 42psi @ WOT for journal bearings. Most electric oil pumps dont make that much pressure.

pyromarty · Oct 29, 2010

Thanks for the heads up, that's another reason i'm wondering about this xt turbo, i was also going to install a pressure switch in the oil supply line to the turbo that if the pressure dropped below 4psi or so it would turn on a light on the dash for me. might get TP's aircraft pump if it will put out 40psi.

snow4shover · Oct 29, 2010

Fuel Control

What are you going to do for fueling?

Wheel House Motorsports · Oct 29, 2010

as far as fueling.. let me make a recomendation..

either talk to NM on here about his boost it fuel system, or just get ahold of sds directly and get a set of exta injectors for the throttle bodies, the bottom end of the 1000sdi motor NEEDS fuel, unless you like swapping cranks.. these systems are also really esay to tune as far as added fuel.

also, PLEASE try and get a bigger turbo, the one you have will work, your just gonna really push the limits on trying to cook the pistons. you will get insane spool, but im betting its not gonna flow enough air to prevent insane backpressure. I know that a fellow on here with a 2860. which im betting is the same or bigger then your turbo, and its definately TO small.. a 1000 needs at least a 2871(or comperable) sized turbo, ideally a 3071+++ they like huge turbos, and almost no bottom end is lost, but large gains in top end can be realized...

good build either way.. glad to see a 1000 getting some love.

turbo800 · Oct 29, 2010

Dumb ? Why is the rear of your skid in the air? Im guessing sharper turning radius or easier to sidehill.

INKEDRIDER · Oct 29, 2010

ah yeah your dumb!!

pyromarty · Oct 29, 2010

Yep turbo is too small, thought since it came from a 2.5 liter engine
that it would be fine but it won't. Josh from TP said exactily that a
GT3071 would be excellent, no biggie i'll just track one down and then
i can continue with the flange and turbo mounting.

Fueling:
was hoping to just use the attitude box from Turbo Performance could possibly also use the aditional injectors on the bottom, i guess that's where polaris had the ease of turbo-ing.. took apart a buddies 900rmk and found it had injectors on the lower end.
is the crank not getting enough oil-fuel? in theroy couldn't you just crank up the oil injectors since they are on the bottom end?

so, no progress today since i found out about the too small turbo.
so later this week stay tuned for some updates with air box/intercooler, oil tank and hopefully find a turbo.

--- Rear end is up because it's hooked to my hoist, i was running the track and operating the clutches after the summer.
and wanted to hear the turbo..

Wheel House Motorsports · Oct 30, 2010

the bottom end of the RT likes to die as it doesnt see any fuel, get it wet.. and its happy.

the extra injector controllers are super easy to tune and cost barely any more then an attitude box.. a little more plumbing/fabbing etc.. but IMO, your gonna be a lot happier with how its all gonna work in the end. pretty much unlimited HP, and helps deal with the little issues that the 1000 has that make them non reliable.

if you have more questions regarding this system.. shoot me a PM and I can explain it all and point you in the right direction.. IMO, its miles better then just a piggy back box.

turbo800 · Nov 1, 2010

I can kinda see the hoist hook on the edge of the page now, thought maybe you lowered the front end with short shocks or something.

Seems like Gus had good luck converting the SDI system back to carbs to help with crank oiling issues.

If you get the BB 3071 turbo, you should have no problems finding an electric oil pump. They only need ~25psi oil pressure.

pyromarty · Nov 1, 2010

So today i fabbed up the air box out of .060 T-6 aluminum.
i still need to cut holes and mount little tube stubs.
also made some spring hoops for my exhaust.

Spring hoops.

gus bohne · Nov 1, 2010

If I were to do an RT for NON drag racing I would do it like this.

1. Do Tom Wargas 6 wire 1 capacitor fix to the electrics and be free of the low amperage that kills the lil pump, the e rave and the consistency, the idle jumps 400rpm when this is done.

2. Most definatly use NM's Boost it system.that will save the bottom end by puttting the additional injectors in either cat throttle bodies or in the charge box connector to the t bodies.

3 have the outer head casting milled .008 -.010. The dome pockets on all the ones I've seen are NOT deep enough to last. I like my domes .008 minimum above the outercasting , .011 for my own race engines..

4. double up all the stock reeds and they will last .

5. 3071 minimum, prefer 3076.. .82 ball bearing and you can use your old pusher pump to feed it oil or the inj pump if you dont use the oil inj.and go premix.
6. shaman air to water barrel type 750 cfm ( 190 bux ) intercooler small and wicked effective with zero lag,,, check the pressure drop,, NONE,, no resistance to flow...
I have pics of install on rev 800 if you like to see,, pm me your e mail add and I can send them.

Gus

have fun..:tea:

Wheel House Motorsports · Nov 2, 2010

wow.. gus, that post pretty much made me drool some.. now that would be a fun mountain sled..

I sent him the link to the SDS stuff in regards to doing it, IMO, it is the ONLY way to trubo an RT. the stupid dry bottom end sucks even stock.. add heat and pressure... bye bye crank.

also really like the capacitor idea.. the electronics on those things have a lot of issues and that would explain why they all crap out.. go smooth current makes things happy and live long.. and also a LOT nicer to tune when your parts work consistantly.

I like this thread.. makes me wanna go get another RT and go nuts!!

catnfool · Nov 2, 2010

NICE weld on your AL box!! But I guess you knew that since you posted that pic

Team Voodoo · Nov 3, 2010

Awsome thread Pyro.

You got my wheels turning with all the information coming out from the snowest boys on how to keep the 1000 alive. was not sure what to do with my retired gade. The way I keep mine alive is I run power jets feeding mixed fuel to the bottom with the low alt map.

snow4shover · Nov 3, 2010

SDI Fuel

You already have 4 high impedance injectors on the sled so you shouldn't need to add any more. If you are just going to use stock pump and stock pressure you should be good up to 10 psi...depending elevation, if you just fuel on your primary injectors. If you can control all 4 you should be able to crank it up a little more.

Turbo RT : going to do it!

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