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Squeal from reverse

P
Feb 22, 2009
324
10
18
OK so this weekend noticed the odd time that after i put the fusion back into forward from reverse i would hear a squeal, it would only last for abit then go away but pretty loud.....any idea?
 

94fordguy

Well-known member
Staff member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
14,576
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Yakima, Wa.
My first question would be, When was your secondary last serviced? The primary clutch doesn't care what direction its turning, but the secondary does. I would say you need to take it apart and have a look at it, you may have a binding spring in there or a roller starting to wear out.

I know I had a similar problem on my 800, it would slip the belt a bit occasionally from a stop and it turned out that the secondary needed a complete servicing - sacked out spring and toasted sliders was my problem back then.

:beer;
 
P
Feb 22, 2009
324
10
18
hmmm really not sure when it was serviced last....is it hard to take apart/ service any tricks??? have never really worked much with clutches, maybe i just drive in forward for the next while till i get a chance to look at it?

or will anything get wrecked if i leave it for now
 
P
Feb 22, 2009
324
10
18
looking at the pic on polaris industries site it doesnt look too complicated, however with the big spring in there....how does one open this up and close it back up without getting injured....and will it be obvious if there is a bad roller or something like that??

no problems at all in forward
 

94fordguy

Well-known member
Staff member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
14,576
5,244
113
38
Yakima, Wa.
hmmm really not sure when it was serviced last....is it hard to take apart/ service any tricks??? have never really worked much with clutches, maybe i just drive in forward for the next while till i get a chance to look at it?

or will anything get wrecked if i leave it for now

I can't really say personally as I have not taken one apart as to how difficult it is, I had the dealer do the service on mine at the time and those were the parts I got back (shot).

It shouldn't really 'damage' anything, but performance is only going to suffer, its going to wear on your belts faster and your going to start seeing less back shifting and over all 'sluggishness'. If you don't know when the last time it was serviced was, then it's time to do it (or have it done) IMO.

Hopefully someone who is familiar with the service procedure on these could chime in as to what tools and tricks are needed.:beer;
 
S
Dec 27, 2007
312
72
28
Aberdeen, SD
The team sec is not hard to take apart. You just need the right tools. You need to remove the helix first. I loosen my adjusting screw on the face to make the helix come out and go back in easier. Then you do need a clutch compressing tool to hold the roller assembly down. Now you need to have a good snap ring tool to release the ring. Once you remove the helix, you will see it is pretty simple.
 
S

sw

Well-known member
Sep 10, 2009
167
95
28
Minnesota
You can remove, inspect, swap out helixs' and inspect rollers by removing the 8 torx screws on back side. DO NOT remove retaining clip on spring without proper clutch compresser tool! Do some reading up on the secondary and look at diagrams to familiarize yourself with operation, then you could buy a compresser or simply make your own. For now, just do partial disassembly, leaving spring assembly alone, remove torx screws and lift out helix and inspect. You may have to flip secondary over, after screws are out, and drop clutch on sturdy wooden block to release helix from roller cage. At reassembly line up holes from helix to moveable sheave as best you can and start screws one at a time snugging up till holes come in to alignment, then finish tightening- don't go overboard with tightening these screws. If all is OK and squeal persists, try backing off belt deflection 1/4 turn or so.
 
P
Feb 22, 2009
324
10
18
ok so go in from the back and remove bolts 3 to get part 4 out correct?

as for belt deflection, that where it rides on the secondary correct? isnt it suppose to be almost flat with the top of the secondary?? when you say adjust it which way? raise it up more? or lower it in the secondary? and if so maybe i should just try this before i take the secondary off and inspect it??

clutch.jpg
 
R
Nov 20, 2009
179
35
28
looking at the pic on polaris industries site it doesnt look too complicated, however with the big spring in there....how does one open this up and close it back up without getting injured....and will it be obvious if there is a bad roller or something like that??

no problems at all in forward
As above stated about the torx removal, when it comes to the rest you can make your own tool, I did and replaced my spring. It's not too hard, threaded rod a welder and some washers and a bit of "know how". Here's a couple pics, hope this helps.
p.s. use safety glasses when you take the snap ring off, you only have 1 set of eyes! I mark all parts with a scribe.
 
Last edited:
S

sw

Well-known member
Sep 10, 2009
167
95
28
Minnesota
Tried to reply at earlier date but for some reason my computer would not respond when 'submit reply' was clicked? Paramuir, belt deflection is when you push down on top side of belt, with clutches at rest(motor off) and in their full neutral position(not pinching belt), that amount of travel that you can press down on it is called deflection. You can adjust deflection by opening/closing moveable sheave(back side of secondary). To do that, try loosening jam nut on front of secondary(fixed sheave) and turning allen head screw, just play around with it and see what it does, you won't hurt anything. If you turn screw in(CW) notice it pushes moveable sheave increasing distance between sheaves? That also increases 'deflection'. If you turn screw out,(CCW) direction, distance between sheaves decreases, as does belt deflection, it also decreases. Your belt removal/install tool is doing the same thing. When I mentioned "backing off belt deflection" I mean to decrease deflection(decrease distance between sheaves). Now without getting too deep into it, What I do is adjust deflection by decreasing distance between sheaves untill belt starts to squeal or machine starts to creep(going forward!), then I'll increase distance(deflection) in 1/4 turn increments untill squeal/creep goes away. You should end up with ~1 1/4" belt deflection(pressing down on top of belt with finger) and top of belt should be riding ~1/8" above outside radius of secondary. When I'm satisfied with that, I remove belt and clean it and the clutch sheaves, primary and secondary, reinstall belt and she's good to go. Hope this helps you.
 
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