First off, Yamaha calls it a 180 kit and MPI calls it a 190 kit per their instructions. Maybe Matt can tell us the difference?
I didn't take pictures of everything since the installation instructions have very good pictures. I just took a few snaps here and there, and I can point out what I did wrong in a couple of them.
Installation instructions:
http://www.mountainperformance.com/support.htm
Here is a wall of text that might help you during the installation. 90% of the install is easy, it is just time consuming.
I didn't use any specialty tools:
8mm
10mm
12mm
14mm
19mm
straight slot screw driver
Torx set
Pliers
metric allen wrenches (one set I have has a "ball" on one end so it can be used at an angle...they were very helpful with the throttle bodies)
Square nosed cutter things (used on clamps)
Heat tape
Strap wrench (nut under the fuel cap)
Oil
Coolant
Notes on steps that gave me issues, or took me longer because I'm a shoddy mechanic:
Step 4 - I had to unbolt most of the upper frame to get the tube out, I couldn't slide it up, down, sideways enough to get it to drop out without taking a few more things loose.
Step 4A - I spent 10 minutes trying to not make a mess, but in the end I just unpluged the oil lines and let it drain into the pan. There is a drain hole, but you'll have to mop up the remaining oil with a rag.
Step 12 - I didn't need to silicone the small washer to the large one. Just be careful when you install the bolt.
Step 25 - both of the gold left hand torx bolts were torqued down so tight that it nearly destroyed my torx bit. It warped the bit pretty bad, so I quit and used a cutoff wheel and my drill to get them out. Broke one drill bit, chiseled off the heads and got one to unscrew with needle nose pliers on what was left of the bolt. I scavenged a replacement bolt out of my garage to put the heat shield back together.
Step 27 - Don't route the hose under the engine until after you get it secured on the rear frame port. There is no room for your hands so you have to use the hose to push it onto the nipple. I even had my wife try and her hands were too big to fit as well.
Step 30 - DO NOT REINSTALL THE FUEL TANK! I had to uninstall it again to get to the clamps on the throttle bodies. Maybe I have fat hands, but it was far easier to get to everything with the fuel tank moved back. The tank can be reinstalled after you get the throttle bodies tight around step 51.
Step 45. When you cut the aluminum line, I would cut just a little closer to the short side than in the middle. I cut dead center and when installed in step 47 it contacted my hood and had to be shortened again.
Step 51A - Verify throttle cable free play - Mine needed more slack. I didn't realize it until the end when I tried to start my sled and it wouldn't fire until I loosened the cable. You can also reinstall the fuel tank after the throttle bodies are reinstalled. Take care to put the wiring back into place in the channel on the black rubber piece about in the middle of the seat on the left side.
Step 53 - Notice the angle that the upper radiator hose is installed on the thermostat housing. If installed with the housing straight up and down like in the step 52 picture you will have clearance issues with the hood. Tilt it to the outside about 30 degrees.
Step 55 - shows the wiring routed above the frame rail, but you may find it fits better routing underneath. I didn't like the angle of the wires when ran over the top.
Step 63 - may take you a few times to get the alignment right, it took be about 3 times.
Step 65 - I had to remove the fitting from the turbo, install the line, and reinstall everything. There isn't enough room to clamp it with the fitting on the turbo. Don't lose the O-ring, mine fell out when I removed the fitting.
Step 68 - was a bit of a challenge holding the turbo and reaching around to start the installation bolt. Don't be like me, make sure the waste gate line (blue) is routed correctly so you don't need to take the turbo off again.
Step 73 - Don't trim too much off the line, if you do you'll be like me and the line will end up pinched a little between the frame support and the engine (step 89). Mine isn't bad enough to need a new hose but any shorter and I'd be in trouble.
Step 75 - After the hose is reinstalled I wrapped the exposed parts with more heat tape left from my Nytro installation a few years ago.
Step 76 - This one blew my mind. The port was on my exhaust after the turbo instead of in front of it. Don't panic if you can't find it, it looks like a small change in their kit from the time the instructions were written.
Step 79 - The orange plug is in package 1178 with a small filter used in step 83. I couldn't find mine and panicked for a few minutes.
Step 85 - I posted pictures of my install on facebook and the one and got some sage advice from Randy Swenson - If you ride trails, the underhood install is fine however, If you ride in any kind of powder the kit needs the filter out of the hood in the cold air so it can fuel properly.
Step 95 - I would loosen all the mounting bolts around the top, but don't remove them. Having just a little wiggle room made it far easier to get the new frame tube installed. Once it is in you can tighten all the other bolts.
Step 106 - these bolts are seriously torqued down. I used an end wrench and a rubber mallet to break them loose.
Step 113 - Do not mount the GEMS box on top of the new airbox next to the boost sensor. I mounted it to the rear over the side. If you mount it on the top of the air box you may have clearance issues with the hood.
The instructions say to clearance the hood for the new Airbox while the pictures say to clearance it for an intercooler. You will need to clearance it for the Airbox as well, so break out the grinder and make some holes.
I recommend test fitting the hood several times to make sure you are comfortable with how everything fits and to make sure it lines up properly. Once you are ready to start it up, I also recommend you leave the hood unbolted so you can check for leaks on all the coolant and oil lines you've modified and moved around. If the hood is bolted in place it is much harder to see all the lines you've been messing with under there.
Good luck! If anyone else has tips they want to share feel free to post up.
I didn't take pictures of everything since the installation instructions have very good pictures. I just took a few snaps here and there, and I can point out what I did wrong in a couple of them.
Installation instructions:
http://www.mountainperformance.com/support.htm
Here is a wall of text that might help you during the installation. 90% of the install is easy, it is just time consuming.
I didn't use any specialty tools:
8mm
10mm
12mm
14mm
19mm
straight slot screw driver
Torx set
Pliers
metric allen wrenches (one set I have has a "ball" on one end so it can be used at an angle...they were very helpful with the throttle bodies)
Square nosed cutter things (used on clamps)
Heat tape
Strap wrench (nut under the fuel cap)
Oil
Coolant
Notes on steps that gave me issues, or took me longer because I'm a shoddy mechanic:
Step 4 - I had to unbolt most of the upper frame to get the tube out, I couldn't slide it up, down, sideways enough to get it to drop out without taking a few more things loose.
Step 4A - I spent 10 minutes trying to not make a mess, but in the end I just unpluged the oil lines and let it drain into the pan. There is a drain hole, but you'll have to mop up the remaining oil with a rag.
Step 12 - I didn't need to silicone the small washer to the large one. Just be careful when you install the bolt.
Step 25 - both of the gold left hand torx bolts were torqued down so tight that it nearly destroyed my torx bit. It warped the bit pretty bad, so I quit and used a cutoff wheel and my drill to get them out. Broke one drill bit, chiseled off the heads and got one to unscrew with needle nose pliers on what was left of the bolt. I scavenged a replacement bolt out of my garage to put the heat shield back together.
Step 27 - Don't route the hose under the engine until after you get it secured on the rear frame port. There is no room for your hands so you have to use the hose to push it onto the nipple. I even had my wife try and her hands were too big to fit as well.
Step 30 - DO NOT REINSTALL THE FUEL TANK! I had to uninstall it again to get to the clamps on the throttle bodies. Maybe I have fat hands, but it was far easier to get to everything with the fuel tank moved back. The tank can be reinstalled after you get the throttle bodies tight around step 51.
Step 45. When you cut the aluminum line, I would cut just a little closer to the short side than in the middle. I cut dead center and when installed in step 47 it contacted my hood and had to be shortened again.
Step 51A - Verify throttle cable free play - Mine needed more slack. I didn't realize it until the end when I tried to start my sled and it wouldn't fire until I loosened the cable. You can also reinstall the fuel tank after the throttle bodies are reinstalled. Take care to put the wiring back into place in the channel on the black rubber piece about in the middle of the seat on the left side.
Step 53 - Notice the angle that the upper radiator hose is installed on the thermostat housing. If installed with the housing straight up and down like in the step 52 picture you will have clearance issues with the hood. Tilt it to the outside about 30 degrees.
Step 55 - shows the wiring routed above the frame rail, but you may find it fits better routing underneath. I didn't like the angle of the wires when ran over the top.
Step 63 - may take you a few times to get the alignment right, it took be about 3 times.
Step 65 - I had to remove the fitting from the turbo, install the line, and reinstall everything. There isn't enough room to clamp it with the fitting on the turbo. Don't lose the O-ring, mine fell out when I removed the fitting.
Step 68 - was a bit of a challenge holding the turbo and reaching around to start the installation bolt. Don't be like me, make sure the waste gate line (blue) is routed correctly so you don't need to take the turbo off again.
Step 73 - Don't trim too much off the line, if you do you'll be like me and the line will end up pinched a little between the frame support and the engine (step 89). Mine isn't bad enough to need a new hose but any shorter and I'd be in trouble.
Step 75 - After the hose is reinstalled I wrapped the exposed parts with more heat tape left from my Nytro installation a few years ago.
Step 76 - This one blew my mind. The port was on my exhaust after the turbo instead of in front of it. Don't panic if you can't find it, it looks like a small change in their kit from the time the instructions were written.
Step 79 - The orange plug is in package 1178 with a small filter used in step 83. I couldn't find mine and panicked for a few minutes.
Step 85 - I posted pictures of my install on facebook and the one and got some sage advice from Randy Swenson - If you ride trails, the underhood install is fine however, If you ride in any kind of powder the kit needs the filter out of the hood in the cold air so it can fuel properly.
Step 95 - I would loosen all the mounting bolts around the top, but don't remove them. Having just a little wiggle room made it far easier to get the new frame tube installed. Once it is in you can tighten all the other bolts.
Step 106 - these bolts are seriously torqued down. I used an end wrench and a rubber mallet to break them loose.
Step 113 - Do not mount the GEMS box on top of the new airbox next to the boost sensor. I mounted it to the rear over the side. If you mount it on the top of the air box you may have clearance issues with the hood.
The instructions say to clearance the hood for the new Airbox while the pictures say to clearance it for an intercooler. You will need to clearance it for the Airbox as well, so break out the grinder and make some holes.
I recommend test fitting the hood several times to make sure you are comfortable with how everything fits and to make sure it lines up properly. Once you are ready to start it up, I also recommend you leave the hood unbolted so you can check for leaks on all the coolant and oil lines you've modified and moved around. If the hood is bolted in place it is much harder to see all the lines you've been messing with under there.
Good luck! If anyone else has tips they want to share feel free to post up.
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