Engine Ice Coolent ??

christopher · Sep 20, 2011

So whats the scoop on this stuff??

Is anyone here using it?
Does it really make a noticeable difference?

http://www.engineice.com/

Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant offers superior performance in all types of water-cooled engines.

Our initial research was primarily in the area of off road motorcycle performance. All of our research proved that Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant provided superior performance in most all conditions. Right from the outset, our product was able to reduce operating temperatures. So we figured, Why wouldn't it work in snowmobiles??

As they are used primarily in very cold conditions, snowmobiles under duress are known for their extreme heat output, especially during the warmer days of winter. With the added protection of freeze-up protection to -27oF it's a sure winner for winter fun.

Whether tooling across the frozen tundra, ripping up in Sno-X or riding groomed trails, Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant will ensure your engine is running at optimal temperatures in any weather, in all extremes.

summitboy · Sep 20, 2011

I use it in my Ducati LOL. Why waste your money on the Nytro ? The green stuff works just fine. You have too much time on your hands Christopher !

Dekk · Sep 20, 2011

In my experience it has been worse than you standard coolant. I ran it in my dirtbike and I noticed it would get a lot hotter than it did before I put it in. I could feel a lot of heat coming off my shrouds in just a few minutes of riding. I have a cousin who races mod lites (they use GXSR 1200 motors) and he said that when he started using engine ice his engine would run 40+ degrees hotter after the race than it would when he ran the standard green anti freeze.

So to answer your question, no it does not help.

KJFarmer · Sep 20, 2011

So a guy can use the regular green antifreeze instead of the factory blue antifreeze from yamaha?

xtrememotorworks · Sep 20, 2011

Only thing I have seen work better is Evans race coolant. Cost a ton and you cant add water so most applications I would just run regular antifreeze.

http://www.evanscooling.com

christopher · Sep 20, 2011

KJFarmer said:
So a guy can use the regular green antifreeze instead of the factory blue antifreeze from yamaha?

Heaven Forbid.

Yamaha's have to have a BLUE liquid in them!! :face-icon-small-hap

gunnerthesnowman · Sep 20, 2011

Yes , the Evans waterless coolant works great , pricey and there is no dealers in Canada , so you have to order it out of the states.

xtrememotorworks said:
Only thing I have seen work better is Evans race coolant. Cost a ton and you cant add water so most applications I would just run regular antifreeze.

http://www.evanscooling.com

KJFarmer · Sep 20, 2011

christopher said:
Heaven Forbid.

Yamaha's have to have a BLUE liquid in them!! :face-icon-small-hap

This is probably dumb to ask but i cant tell if its sarcasm or not, haha

christopher · Sep 21, 2011

Just having fun.

The OEM fluid just happens to be BLUE Anti-Freeze rather than the normal Green stuff.

TRUEBLUEMAX · Sep 21, 2011

Mine had green stuff in it when I just drained it while I was pulling off my tunnel. Does it really come with blue antifreeze in it, and was that just a 10 and newer deal?

←snow∞motion→ · Sep 21, 2011

Both mine came with green, must be a new thing I guess.

I thought cause I bought from a Arctic Cat/Yamaha dealer there might have been some inbreeding going on at night when the doors were closed. :face-icon-small-sho

Turbo11T · Sep 21, 2011

I put some water wetter in my yamadoo. Cooling is all about the surface tension of the coolant. I am not sure if the water wetter works but I never got the yamadoo hot. And water wetter is pretty cheap to try. The guy at the racing store said that alot of the dirt track racers swear by it.

KJFarmer · Sep 21, 2011

TRUEBLUEMAX said:
Mine had green stuff in it when I just drained it while I was pulling off my tunnel. Does it really come with blue antifreeze in it, and was that just a 10 and newer deal?

Yep my 2010 had blue antifreeze in it, thought i need to run that so i saved most of it that i could and bought two quarts more at $7 per quart! :faint: Also have to drive 60 miles to the dealer to get it

christopher · Sep 21, 2011

Maybe they had the BLUE fluid made for the 2010 product line??

RACINSTATION · Sep 21, 2011

Turbo583 said:
I put some water wetter in my yamadoo. Cooling is all about the surface tension of the coolant. I am not sure if the water wetter works but I never got the yamadoo hot. And water wetter is pretty cheap to try. The guy at the racing store said that alot of the dirt track racers swear by it.

Yes. Redline Water Wetter is the best I have found. You can actually see a drop in temps. It will not effect the thermostat opening temp, of course. It is about $10 per bottle.

bdoe22 · Sep 21, 2011

KTM TEMPS

we typically see a drop in temps in the KTM single track bikes. low speed technical riding is hard on temps and the engine ice flat works. We sell at least 6-8 cases a year in a retail dealership. Not sure why it wouldn't work in sleds? it says on the bottle it will protect to -26F.

christopher · Sep 21, 2011

Came across this post from MOUNTAINHORSE over in the Polaris forum....

Quote:
<table border="0" cellpadding="10" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset"> glycol does NOT cool, </td> </tr> </tbody></table>
Partly true...for Ethylene Glycol.... Also the other additives present in the formulation play a role in the effectiveness of the coolant.

Water is only effective up to its boiling point... and there are many hot spots in a motor where coolant can boil without you knowing it.
Though the temp gauge might read one thing... the coolant in the motor could be too hot in spots.

If you really want a "No BS" coolant for your sled that is truly the best on the market for heat transfer ability... Evans NPG+ (non aqueous propylene glycol) which has zero water in it... It is one of the best coolant liquids out there...

I tried some of the original NPG from Evans a few years back... But it gels up in colder weather... tried it on a 900 (similar water pump)... it spun the keyway in the impeller.. So I switched back to standard 50/50 after fixing the water pump (what a PITA).

Till...

I built a custom street rod last year for a client...With a monstrous Sonny Leonard engine in it... It had some cooling issues on hot days in slow traffic even though it had a huge custom aluminum radiator and the biggest fan that SPAL makes... switched from Standard Ethylene Glycol (Peak brand) 50/50 to adding water wetter... it helped some.... then on to Distilled with Water wetter... actually ran hotter over the other... then switched out to the NPG+ coolant from Evans...cooling problems went away. I would have used the original NPG (as compared to the + product) but the owner sees sub freezing temps and sometimes uses it on sunny but cold days in the winter... I did not know about the NPG+ at at that time I initially filled the cooling system in the Car. (a nice 57 Chevy)

NPG+ is good for use in ambient temps to -40F where the original NPG was only good into the +30's F.

A good friend of mine who is the engineer on a large yacht uses the Evans coolant in the 5000+ HP diesels on-board...He swears by it, after having cooling issues in warm tropical waters at full load.

Diminished Nucleate boiling and better heat transfer rates into/out of the coolant are what better coolants can do for you.

Here is a good tech presentation of coolants and NPG products
http://www.evanscooling.com/water-ba...fferentiators/

NOTE: There are other brands of NPG coolants out there... I only have experience with the NPG products.

I'll be running this in all my sleds this year. A bit pricey at $38/gallon, but, IMO... worth it.

Evans is a recognized supplier in the racing world as well as the heavy-duty/fleet industry and is not a gimmick business.

Another benefit... "IF"... If you have deto issues... AND... those issues are related to nucleate boiling in the head... this coolant would help to reduce deto issues.

BUT...

If your cooling system heat exchangers are not up to the job for your given conditions... then you will still have problems regardless of the coolant once the saturation and working pressure limitations of the coolant/system are met.

I worked with Curt at FTX a few years back to come up with the first supplemental heat exchangers for the Dragons... which had significantly more cooling system capacity and surface area in the stock heat exchangers.

The Pro-RMK install of the FTX cooler is a bit more work with the square cross tube between the stock left and right halves of the heat exchangers (aka coolers) at the rear of the tunnel.. but still very straight fwd if you are a patient installer with decent mechanical skills.

Some people ride in a certain way, and in certain conditions as Gman points out...Some people, in their situations, have no issues... other do... the sleds are the same unless something is broken.

If you have a cooling problem... And the problem lies in the ability to transfer heat to the coolant quickly... the water wetter will help... somewhat... Same for "Engine Ice".
Redline is not known for selling "snake-oil" and I put my trust in that.

With a cooling problem on your sled... make sure you have no air in the system...

Make sure the coolant is up to level.

Make sure your thermostat is working.

Switch out the Ported snow flap (snow flap with holes) for a non ported one to keep the snow in the tunnel where it can do the work of chilling the exchangers.

Use scratchers religiously.

If, for YOUR riding terrain/style/conditions... this is NOT enough... Try the NPG+

...Then go with the Supplemental cooler from FTX IMO. It puts a lot more surface area and a decent increase in liquid capacity right where it is most effective... at the rear of the tunnel.

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Engine Ice Coolent ??

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