Help: replaced reeds now it won't start.

WaterKid · Jan 20, 2017

I have an 06 rmk and lost my bottom end. Found all the reeds were lifted a bit so I replaced them with OEM. They are now nice and tight.

Now I just can't get the darn thing started.

On the 1st pull it started right up but fouled the plugs quickly.

After messing with the fuel screw it now doesn't foul but not running at all now.
Anyone know how many turns the fuel screw should be, the closest I got it too run is 1 turn but only for a short while.

btw, I also cleaned all the jets before replacing the reeds and it ran great from 1/4 throttle to full, but not below that.
Snows falling and I'm in the garage

WaterKid · Jan 20, 2017

I just remembered I also moved the needle to the top position as it helped when the reeds were bad. I'll move back to the 3rd pos and see if that helps.

XCaSSAULT · Jan 21, 2017

Fuel screws should be in for lean out for rich. Typical is 1.5 turns out. It's not uncommon to be in the 1 to 5 turns out range. I have to adjust mine all the time per outside air temp.

Did u mess with the tps sensor at all? Or the the throttle cable, choke cable, or idle screw/slide screw? All those need to be back where they were. Kinda sounds like maybe the choke plungers are not seating all the way. Or the slides are to far down. Just to be sure I'd make sure u have sparkfirst to rule out any kill switch issue (been there before) and when u do get it running keep an eye on the plug color and be sure it's running good in all ranges.

WaterKid · Jan 21, 2017

Thanks for some direction.

I moved the needle back to #3 position and still nothing.

Found I had lost the prime from fuel tank so I blew thru it back into the tank and then sucked the gas back into the lines. It started right up.

Thought I had the problem licked as it seemed to run properly. Ran down to the neighbors with it and it ran decent.

Went on a 3 mile test ride and it progressively got worse was barely able to get it home at full throttle it barely had enouph oomph to get home.

I did a compression test and it is a bit low at 110 each but it ran great before the reed change at full throttle.

Now I'm stumped again.

My fuel screw was at 1 turn, I just moved it too 1.5 and no real difference.
I'm surprised that some may be out as far as 5 turns? Maybe I should keep turning it out a 1/2 turn at a time till I get that far out?

TRS · Jan 22, 2017

Have you checked your fuel pump? Failed Vacuum line from case?
Is your vent line plugged or pinched?
Pull the line out of the tank and check, it may have hardened and leaking air at the grommet connection.

XCaSSAULT · Jan 22, 2017

What do the plugs look like? Do both look the same? Make sure the carb boots are not cracked and seated properly. Deffinitly check what TRS said and maybe the needle jets and floats are not seating and constantly leaking fuel in. Or the chokes stuck open. If one spark plug is drippin wet (or both) that would at least tell u it's getting way to much fuel.

WaterKid · Jan 22, 2017

I'm going to start all over with diagnostics paying close attention to the suggestions above.

It does act like something isn't seated right, losing the prime from the tank also nags at me that something there is the issue.

I will post my finding, hopefully this can help someone else in similar situation.

TRS · Jan 22, 2017

XCaSSAULT said:
What do the plugs look like? Do both look the same? Make sure the carb boots are not cracked and seated properly. Deffinitly check what TRS said and maybe the needle jets and floats are not seating and constantly leaking fuel in. Or the chokes stuck open. If one spark plug is drippin wet (or both) that would at least tell u it's getting way to much fuel.

Forgot about the boots, '06 had bad boots. Cracked easily, push down on the carbs and look for cracking.

WaterKid · Jan 23, 2017

Didn't look cracked but I will push down on them, sounds like they are hairline fractures?

I had no fuel in the lines after sitting overnight, not sure if it leaked out or just wasn't there after my test ride. It seems now that it may be a leak or plug between the tank and carb. I don't believe its getting the gas it should , plugs are not that wet if at all when I look after getting it started for a bit.

As suggested above I will pull the lines out of the tank and check for cracks, ran out of time this weekend so I'll have to wait and see.

XCaSSAULT · Jan 23, 2017

Should have a screen inside tank. Check that as well as condition of gas tank line. From the tank it should go to a valve then filter then gas pump. Check all lines replace filter and I'd even rebuild fuel pump (pretty easy)

WaterKid · Feb 5, 2017

How much fuel should iq 600 ho fuel pump put out?

Finally got back to this project and pretty sure it narrowed down to the fuel pump.

Went thru all of the suggestions including pulling out the fuel lines. All looked good and couldn't find any cracks or hard parts. Got the carb dialed in at 2nd pin position and 1 1/2 turns out. Starts right up and at 1st has all the power expected from the throttle.

Runs great until I put the gas too it and then it has about 2 minutes and then bogs down like its starving for fuel.

I took apart the fuel pump to make sure there wasn't any blockages so I'm assuming the plastic diaphragms are just getting old and not flexing like they should.

This model is not electric. At one point I let it run for a bit and unhooked the fuel pump line to see if any fuel was being pumped.

It did pump fuel but only in spurts, does anyone know how much fuel is normal to flow out?? ,
Do they all just spurt due to the pulsing design?

I'm going to order a rebuild kit but not sure what normal is since I've never checked the fuel flow when it was running correctly.

XCaSSAULT · Feb 5, 2017

So it runs good for a couple minutes then sorta craps out? Sounds like a problem I had with my old xc700. Starts and idles good, run down the field like a beast, then turn around to come back and it fell on its face. After chasing all kinds of things including rebuilding the motor top to bottom I tried a different exhaust system I had laying around and bam! That was it. Turns out the exhaust can had a busted coil inside and after it got hot made a lot of restriction. Worth a look

WaterKid · Feb 5, 2017

Interesting you said exhaust as when I first started having issues last year I had the can (not the pipe) removed and fired it up and it ran like a bat out hell and so thought I had found the issue so....

over the summer I opened up the can and removed some of the restrictive piping but after putting back together it really had no effect.

Now you make me scratch my head again

WaterKid · Feb 17, 2017

Hopefully final update on my diagnose of my sleds bogging out.

I re-circled the wagons and started rechecking everything.

Ended up being exhaust valves sticking. I usually clean them up a bit each year as I did at the beginning of last year but didn't get to ride hardly any so I skipped the full clean job this year and only did a quick check on one valve, it was dark but not crusted so I put it back. It was the other valve that was crusted when I finally checked and sticking bad. I'm really surprised how bad it got so I have a feeling between bad reeds and carb needing cleaned it was running rich on that cylinder.

During the process I found a number of things that needed fixed including the bent reeds as well as a full carb clean and new head gaskets, new clutch spring.

All together I think its running better than it has in years.

and btw for the record the magic spot on carb settings so far has been top needle position with 3 turns out. Not enouph gas on the fuel mix screw and it will also foul plugs as the amount of oil doesn't change you need enouph gas to burn out any extra oil.

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Help: replaced reeds now it won't start.

WaterKid

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