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clutch backshifting

Superduty348

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I have a 10 m8 sp and I want a little better backshifting does that shift assist from D&D really work? I have ordered rock rollers for it also. Any other suggestions?
Thx
 

winter brew

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I have a 10 m8 sp and I want a little better backshifting does that shift assist from D&D really work? I have ordered rock rollers for it also. Any other suggestions?
Thx

Can you describe what you are looking to achieve? By backshift, do you mean it's not regaining RPM quickly enough after a change in load? Not recovering at all? Dropping RPM when on/off the throttle? Or...???
I ask because if you change one aspect it will likely effect others.....so changing something to get a stronger backshift signal may also give you more RPM or not allow full shift.
 

av8er

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buy the *.* green shift assist kit here on snowest $17 shipped

it works well and will give u a better back shift
 

Superduty348

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Quote: Can you describe what you are looking to achieve? By backshift, do you mean it's not regaining RPM quickly enough after a change in load? Not recovering at all? Dropping RPM when on/off the throttle? Or...???
I ask because if you change one aspect it will likely effect others.....so changing something to get a stronger backshift signal may also give you more RPM or not allow full shift.
__________________Its just when your on and off the throttle it takes a bit for the track to catch up to the motor if that makes any sense.My rpm is fine at full shift out . I am just curries if the the shift assist works to improve it.
 

WyoBoy1000

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shift assist and rollers are a good upgrade, most likely you will loose 100-200 rpm and may need to shave some weight from the primary clutch weights. when you put in the shift assist remove one plastic washer and leave on in.
 
R

RKT

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Jul 19, 2001
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www.2strokeheads.com
To directly answer your question.. Yes, our clutch kit addresses the slow back-shift and slow upshift.

Backshift is much improved with the kit..

Feel free to call with any questions

Thanks

Kelsey
 
A

ACMtnCat

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I know this won't help the backshift but, I like adjustable primary weights allot!!! for dialing in the RPMs after installing the shift assist. They work great for changing snow conditions throughout the year too!

If you need to adjust the RPM's a bit, just stop and toss some weight in there or pull some out. super easy! Spot on with RPM's in all conditions.

The CPC adjustables have worked great for me!

P.S. Make sure your primary spring is'nt broken and belt deflection is set propper. Oh and clean those clutches often!
 
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D

dmkhnr

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I've found that the RKT setup works best for boondocking, and the compression setup works best for hillclimbing.

With the RKT torsion setup, the shift out is QUICK, trackspeed is almost instant however I can only get it to work like this with a stiff spring in the secondary which really overpowers the motor not allowing it to load. The result is great for boonin, and decent trackspeed while climbing, but it's a wound out feeling that doesn't pull or gain, nor does it pull down. Hot clutches, and you have to watch your belts. A softer spring does get you more of the pull back on top, but the r's won't hold on a climb.

With compression setup, I notice a small lag through the shift, and it doesn't swing the r's nearly as fast as the torsion, however when climbing a softer spring allows the motor to work and load itself giving you that pulling feeling while in the climb. Backshift is good, but not nearly as whippy as the torsion setup. I didn't notice much difference with the shift assist.

I've been using the torsion setup with a 38/34 helix for 3 seasons now, and will be switching to a 2 stage compression this season.
 
Last edited:
R
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? STM

It sounds like people are still making a compromise with these various conversion kits.

What about the STM secondary clutches? Could these be the final solution?
 

WyoBoy1000

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depending on the primary weights a split angle (radius cut i think) helps quite a bit on the upshift of the compression style. You should change out your springs every 500-1000 miles in my opinion. everyone I've tested after 500 has had a lot less tension than stock.
 
W

W A O

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depending on the primary weights a split angle (radius cut i think) helps quite a bit on the upshift of the compression style. You should change out your springs every 500-1000 miles in my opinion. everyone I've tested after 500 has had a lot less tension than stock.

What about with the titanium spring?
 

Superduty348

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shift assist and rollers are a good upgrade, most likely you will loose 100-200 rpm and may need to shave some weight from the primary clutch weights. when you put in the shift assist remove one plastic washer and leave on in.

so with the shift assist you will lose 100-200 rpm?I thought it was so pose to make things smoother so why the rpm loss?
 

Tonysnoo

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What about with the titanium spring?

Yeah what he said...

plus how much less tension did they have after 500 miles?

We used to compress our brandy new springs in a vise overnight before we installed them to start with a "sagged" out spring and tuned to it. Worked great for all season and sometimes two.
 

WyoBoy1000

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Some guys like the ti springs, some don't. from what I've seen they are thicker and bind in the primary, I was on the fence about it until twisted and my dealer said they weren't worth it, the one I had was binding to and the performance was poor compared to what I had before.

I can't remember how much they lost, we just put them in a press on top of a scale and pressed them to a certain height and compared it to a new one. the loss was about the same as if you changed out the spring to the next stage softer. They are also usually 1/8" shorter to start with. I was running a SW G/W (140/290) and after 500 it was the same or less than a new stock Y/W (122/285).

You loose rpm normally with the shift assist because it lets the clutches shift out a little farther with less friction and pulls down the motor. Most people loose about 100 r's
 
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