PERFORMANCE TIP: CLEAN YOUR BELT AND CLUTCHES, SET DEFLECTION... EVEN ON NEW SLEDS.

mountainhorse · Nov 9, 2017

Your clutches work hard.. and new belts have mfg residue on them.
After your clutches/belts are used.... more residue and glazing hamper performance. The "grip" of the rubber is reduced by heat glazing and aluminum/oily residues.

Especially true on high powered sleds we have today!

Even on new machines and belts.

Remove residues on clutches and belts to keep your sled working optimally.

The clutches are THE link from the engine to the remainder of the drivetrain.... pretty critical for optimal performance to keep them clean and well maintained.

You will need:
Owners manual for your sled.
Good degreaser cleaner
Stiff scrub brush
Gray or brown Scotchbrite pads
Brake cleaner
Good clean white paper towels

Remove the belt from the sled (note install direction).

Wash/Scrub the belt in really hot tap water and simple green, or some other good degreaser and a stiff scrub brush... and hang to dry....This removes the molding and mfg release compounds from the surface and other residue left from use of the sled.

Leave the secondary open from your removal... and clean the faces of the primary and secondary clutch sheaves with a scotchbrite pad.... "Wash" the faces following the scrub.... with brake cleaner and clean white paper towels until your final wipe has no residue on it. If there is still belt residue on the sheaves, repeat the process. Take your time to be thorough.

Re-install your belt...AND get out your owners manual.... Follow the instructions to set the belt deflection properly... in the rush at the factory...this is often not set just right.

Clean your belts and clutches periodically throughout the season to ge the most out of your belt and the best performance from the clutching you have !

My 2¢

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PNash · Nov 9, 2017

I use acetone rather than brake cleaner. Any leftover break cleaner will eat away at the rubber on the belt. Other than that you are correct and this is often over looked by dealers during PDI.

I'd also suggest breaking in both your new belt as well as your spare. Properly breaking in a belt is critical to getting long belt life. You dont want to blow a belt and put a brand new belt on. That's a quick way to blow two belts and be SOL.

Scott · Nov 9, 2017

PNash said:
I use acetone rather than brake cleaner. Any leftover break cleaner will eat away at the rubber on the belt. Other than that you are correct and this is often over looked by dealers during PDI.

I'd also suggest breaking in both your new belt as well as your spare. Properly breaking in a belt is critical to getting long belt life. You dont want to blow a belt and put a brand new belt on. That's a quick way to blow two belts and be SOL.

I've continuously heard debates about belt break-in from one extreme to the other.
From nothing at all to washing then in the dishwasher.

Andystoy · Nov 10, 2017

When I get a new sled home I remove the belt and wash the belt in the sink with dish soap and a stiff brush followed with a good rinse. I wash the surfaces of both the drive and driven sheaves with dish soap and water. After the surface is dry I lightly scuff the surfaces with a Scotch Brite pad and wipe the surfaces with a clean paper towel. I wash my spare belt at the same time.
Install the belt, run the sled for a bit and set deflection. I break in 2 belts before I head for the steep and deep. After every ride I do a quick scuff with the Scotch Brite pad to remove any residue and blow the dust away without removing the belt. This allows me to check the belt, the ride height of the belt, dust or streaking on the pulley and adjust deflection if required. After about 80 km I do the break in on the second belt.
Adjusting deflection on the belt and the chain is important on the first few rides. JMO

Chadly · Nov 10, 2017

Andystoy said:
When I get a new sled home I remove the belt and wash the belt in the sink with dish soap and a stiff brush followed with a good rinse. I wash the surfaces of both the drive and driven sheaves with dish soap and water. After the surface is dry I lightly scuff the surfaces with a Scotch Brite pad and wipe the surfaces with a clean paper towel. I wash my spare belt at the same time.
Install the belt, run the sled for a bit and set deflection. I break in 2 belts before I head for the steep and deep. After every ride I do a quick scuff with the Scotch Brite pad to remove any residue and blow the dust away without removing the belt. This allows me to check the belt, the ride height of the belt, dust or streaking on the pulley and adjust deflection if required. After about 80 km I do the break in on the second belt.
Adjusting deflection on the belt and the chain is important on the first few rides. JMO

My life is way too short to spend that much time on that silliness :face-icon-small-con I just hammer on my junk until it breaks then drop it off at the dealer to get fixed.

mountainhorse · Nov 10, 2017

Chadly said:
My life is way too short to spend that much time on that silliness :face-icon-small-con I just hammer on my junk until it breaks then drop it off at the dealer to get fixed.

I wish I was wealthy like you :face-icon-small-win

mountainhorse · Nov 10, 2017

PNash said:
I use acetone rather than brake cleaner. Any leftover break cleaner will eat away at the rubber on the belt. Other than that you are correct and this is often over looked by dealers during PDI.

I'd also suggest breaking in both your new belt as well as your spare. Properly breaking in a belt is critical to getting long belt life. You dont want to blow a belt and put a brand new belt on. That's a quick way to blow two belts and be SOL.

I prefer acetone as well... but not many people have it. (or are freaked out by it)

Good old fashioned brake cleaner does not leave residue, it gasses off... some of the new-fangled "enviro" kinds do.

Good Idea on breaking in both belts... so they are ready to go when you are in a pinch!

Norona · Nov 11, 2017

Great post! I wash my belts and throw in the cvt guard as well hot soapy water and use acetone on the clutches. If you do it often this a ten minute job! Braaap

Clutched Films · Nov 12, 2017

Belt care

I used to bring 2 spares in my pack & 1 under the hood after blowing 3 belts in one day gettin towed in. Break your spare belts in so you can enjoy the rest of a deep day. Clean your clutches and belts it makes all the difference in the world. Especially now with the oil tanks over the clutches.

mountainhorse · Nov 15, 2017

Cleaning/Washing it is more than removing oily residue.

On a used belt, that won't be effective.

The dishwasher doesn't remove the metal particles or glazing ("dead rubber") on the surface.

For that... a good cleaner like simple green, Super Clean, Purple power, "Totally awesome", or a good dish soap with a stiff scrub brush is your best bet.

Do NOT use the brake-cleaner, Acetone, "belt dressing" or any other solvent on the BELT though (thanks Jackson for the PM asking about that) .

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FearMyWrX · Nov 19, 2017

I feel like there so much conflicting data on how to care for your belt and clutches. Everyone posts what they do. Where’s the literatures from the manufactures?

Also, what is considered residue? I’ve used acetone to remove dirt, and other substance from the clutches, evidence is on the shop cloth, but still have some discoloration on the primary. I’m assuming a clean used clutch doesn’t have that high shine it once did when it’s brand new?

blk9038 · Nov 23, 2017

FearMyWrX said:
I feel like there so much conflicting data on how to care for your belt and clutches. Everyone posts what they do. Where’s the literatures from the manufactures?

Also, what is considered residue? I’ve used acetone to remove dirt, and other substance from the clutches, evidence is on the shop cloth, but still have some discoloration on the primary. I’m assuming a clean used clutch doesn’t have that high shine it once did when it’s brand new?

last year when I bought my 17 there was a thread on here about oil getting on belt/clutches from dealer/factory and after seeing illistration (oil on plastic directly under clutches) I checked mine and sure enough it was there also, some suggested and I agree if I would have ran mine the oil would have gotten onto clutches also as well as impregnated into belt.
I cleaned mine and did mods suggested and no problems last season....even towed a 13 pro out mostly uphill 9 plus miles clutches were a bit hot but not bad,

i'llDooit · Nov 23, 2017

I use glass cleaner and a red or grey scotch brite. Scrub the clutches with scotch brite and glass cleaner, then spray again and wipe clean with microfiber towel. Belt too. Works great. No harsh chemicals needed. But I'm sure ur way is way better then mine.

JRoth · Nov 24, 2017

Belt deflection

Seems to be some debate on belt deflection. Owners manual shows what it always has run it up until the depressions are even with the clutch. I've seen a picture which appears to be from the BRP race manual that shows running it up until it's even with the chord

mountainhorse · Oct 1, 2018

TTT... That "time of the year"

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PERFORMANCE TIP: CLEAN YOUR BELT AND CLUTCHES, SET DEFLECTION... EVEN ON NEW SLEDS.

mountainhorse

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