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Ski-Doo oil in the CFI motors

06redrevx

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Has anyone here ran or run the Ski-Doo synthetic oil in your Pros?
I have always thought it to be good quality oil, not sure what the pour point is compared to the Polaris Gold
My neighbor gave me 3 gallons of the doo oil so thought I might try it
 

ndC7M8

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If you have warranty, don't do it. If your warranty is up go right ahead. You don't need Polaris gold or whatever either. I've run the Polaris blue oil in the last 2 RMKs and the same will go in this new one. Unless someone here specializes in lubricants and can provide hard evidence there is going to be a problem, don't listen to the "he said, she said" crap about what oil works. I get so sick of the diluted people who think they're sled will actually run better or longer on fancy oil. If something is going to fail internally, it's not because you put cheap Cenex Power Valve oil in that morning before your ride. The best thing to do for a pro would be to turn up the oil pump or put a little in each tank of gas.

So, with BRP's superior engine technology, I would say they're oil would work just fine in the Pro

And yes, I see indyDan's thread about injector oil. He's referring to his engines and assembly lube in relation to oil types/viscosity.
 
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LoudHandle

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……

And yes, I see indyDan's thread about injector oil. He's referring to his engines and assembly lube in relation to oil types/viscosity.

I would suggest you re-read his first post. It covers more than his own azz. Specifically the difference the CFI-2 has being dry over the previous wet case engines. And we will continue to differ on the warranty issue, the law is on my side, I'll win if it were to come to that.
 
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ndC7M8

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I would suggest you re-read his first post. It covers more than his own azz. Specifically the difference the CFI-2 has being dry over the previous wet case engines. And we will continue to differ on the warranty issue, the law is on my side, I'll win if it were to come to that.

Not sure what ya mean there. The doo oil should still work in the Pro engine, regardless.
 

LoudHandle

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Not sure what ya mean there. ..........

The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act is the federal law that governs consumer product warranties. Passed by Congress in 1975. The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act Prohibits a manufacture from dictating they have to use their oil. If the said Manufacturer States that the consumer must use their oil, then the said Manufacturer must provide their oil to the consumer for Free. As well as many other contentious points for the consumer.

Since none of the four snowmobile manufactures supply us with free oil. They can not deny your claim based on using X brand oil, as long as it meets their written specification for the grade / quality of the oil.

So your comment on them denying Warranty.........is complete BS.
 
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ndC7M8

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The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act is the federal law that governs consumer product warranties. Passed by Congress in 1975. The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act Prohibits a manufacture from dictating they have to use their oil. If the said Manufacturer States that the consumer must use their oil, then the said Manufacturer must provide their oil to the consumer for Free. As well as many other contentious points for the consumer.

Since none of the four snowmobile manufactures supply us with free oil. They can not deny your claim based on using X brand oil, as long as it meets their written specification for the grade / quality of the oil.

So your comment on them denying Warranty.........is complete BS.

Well gee, thanks. But as an easy way to avoid more BS fighting over warranty with your dealer, buy the cheapest Polaris oil you can and they can't really say much, since you're still using they're product they can't really fight ya too much there. It just seems like an easy way around any drama with your dealer while you're still under warranty. If you have the time and the money to take them to court over the matter and cite the magnussen moss warranty act, you have more than enough time and money to pay for pistons if they deny you warranty for using "x brand" oil.

I agree, you can use any oil. Really. It's all engineered for modern 2 strokes. They're all regulated by the EPA, so it really just comes down to pour point. If you actually have to use your sled anywhere past 40 below temperatures, that sucks, but for the majority of riders, your oil staying fluid really shouldn't be your first concern every morning. The worst that can happen with off brand oil is gummy exhaust valves. Oil vs. oil is the exact same as sled vs. sled. In both cases, I don't care and prefer convenience and cost over what the majority of snowest thinks is better. But that's my opinion so I suppose I'm wrong
 

06redrevx

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So does anyone have the comparisons of pour points for the two oils discussed?
 
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Double L

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I had a couple gallons left of skidoo oil after making the switch back to polaris for the 08-09 season. I decided to use it in my 09 assault. Rode that sled for three seasons and 2000 miles with no issues using nothing but doo oil. Decided to run doo oil from day one on my 12 pro and had zero issues as well. I will be running the doo oil in my 15 pro. Only problem is that I have to go into the local skidoo shop to get it. But they have it in bulk and is reasonably priced. I have no idea if it's made a difference or not in engine reliability but I'm not messing with what works for me.
 

ndC7M8

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Update: received some royal purple snow 2-c today, went to the lab, First i looked at the oil in my microscope and noticed some thing differnt from the other oil's, The base oil is all synthetic, But some th ing did not look right so i checked out the royal purple web site to look at the msds and there it was, Iso paraffinic diluent's what is it, Isoparaffinic are branched aliphatic hydrocarbon's and depending on the carbon length range it could be used as a solvent, When diluted it act's like a detergant but is better idea then a strong detergant's, I think this oil would keep valve cleaning down, Any way r.p.m. before break down 12,075, This is a very good oil, As the oil's come in i will post them. -42F pour point.

Tested, injex pro 2- cycle, The base stock is mineral oil the other is synthetic oil, this oil contains a large amount of detergent's and ash, To me this oil would be good for air cooled engine's that get hotter then liquid cooled engine's, Air cooled engine's need detergent's to keep carbon build up down. Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength 8,875, With a large amount of foam and heat under high r.p.m, This oil failed my test.

Tested, Mystic jt-4 synthetic, R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength 13,600, This oil was the best in cold pour point so far with a - 56 f, This oil is excellent and passed my test.

TESTED, Red Line two-stroke snowmobile oil, This oil has 80% base stock's of very small molecules, It has very low ash, Very good film strength, And a pour point of -42f, Maximum r.p.m. before break down was 11,443, This oil passed my test.

TESTED, Polaris racing synthetic oil, this oil had 85% base stock's of very small molecules and a very high film strengh, first let's compare this to ves gold plus, the racing oil has .9% higher visosity then the ves gold plus, But the ves has more corrosion inhibitors then the racing oil, polaris racing synthetic maximum r.p.m. before break down was 12,920, This oil passed my test. with a pour point of -40f. So far the best bang for the buck is the mystic jt-4 synthetic, A friend of mine gave me some Legend zx-2r to test next. Any members use this oil.

TESTED: Amsoil Dominator, pour point -50, This oil has excellent synthetic base stock at 75%, and 25% high processed oil's, but it has alot of detergent's in the formula, R.P.M. before break down of the viscosity and film strength was 12,002, This oil passed my test.

TESTED: Legend ZX-2SR: First off under the microscope this oil is not a synthetic oil, but an ultra pure highly refined mineral oil, the molecules are very small, the pour point was -54f. R.P.M. before brake down of the oil viscosity and film strength is unknown. My test unit only goes to 16,000 R.P.M. and the oil never broke down. This oil is going to be my new oil in my new rush switchback 800, and yes i checked the oil three times in my machines this oil is the best i have tested. I have to thank my friend jeff for giving me this oil to test.

TESTED: Polaris synthetic blend (blue) oil, This oil is70% mineral oil with 30% synthetic in the mix, The molecules are not very uniform, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strengh was 8,988, This oil failed my test, And i have been using this oil to break in my new polaris snowmobile's over the year's, But what i dont understand is on the label it say's for non-ves?, pour point was-38f.

TESTED: Spectro syn-snow, this oil is 100% synthetic with very small and uniform moecules, there is a detergent in this oil, maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 13,778, this oil passed my test. pour point was -55f.

TESTED: Legend ZX-2R, This oil is almost the the same as zx-2sr, this is not a synthetic but a highly refined mineral, the molecules are small, But not as small as the zx-2sr, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 13,675, pour point was -48f. This oil passed my test.

TESTED: Yamalube 2s two stroke oil , This oil has a mineral base with synthetic added to the mix 60% mineral, 40% synthetic, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 9,998, Even though the r.p.m. were not that impressive, I am going to pass this oil, Becuse of it's rust protection, and it is a very clean burning oil, pour point was tested at -33f

tested: klotz r-50 Techniplate, This oil is all synthetic, and has very small molecules, And it is a thick oil, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 15,579, even though the oil broke down, my test unit stayed at 116f, wierd, this is the first time my unit did this, pour point tested at -14f, this oil passed my test.

TESTED: Shell ADVANCE SNOW ALTRA ,This oil is all synthetic, The molecules are very small and uniform with low ash, This oil is a API-TC, JASO-FC, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 11,902, this oil passed my test, A note about ash, what is it? it is calcium phenate or magnesium phenate, these compounds are detergent's. Some oil's contain more and some less, We want less ash to pass my test's.

TESTED: CASTOR OIL, Yes people out there are using it, Castor is a bean oil, it is a excellent lubricant, With a high R.P.M. of 13,992 before break down, But this oil is very dirty, with carbon build up, this oil failed my test.


^^^^^found this archived on SnoWest that someone found about an independent tester. Can't find the ski doo specs yet though
 
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BILTIT

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TESTED: Legend ZX-2SR: First off under the microscope this oil is not a synthetic oil, but an ultra pure highly refined mineral oil, the molecules are very small, the pour point was -54f. R.P.M. before brake down of the oil viscosity and film strength is unknown. My test unit only goes to 16,000 R.P.M. and the oil never broke down. This oil is going to be my new oil in my new rush switchback 800, and yes i checked the oil three times in my machines this oil is the best i have tested. I have to thank my friend jeff for giving me this oil to test.

That right there is interesting!

I have only used the ZX-2S, looks like i need to step up to the -2SR!

It smells great too.
 

TRS

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Running Ski-Doo semi-syn for the last three years. No oil related issues to date. EV will run 1000 miles before cleaning. I try an run 32:1, throttle position plays a huge part in this ratio.
 

ndC7M8

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Running Ski-Doo semi-syn for the last three years. No oil related issues to date. EV will run 1000 miles before cleaning. I try an run 32:1, throttle position plays a huge part in this ratio.

which makes a guy think all those "mountain riders" that putz down the trails and sit around in meadows all day are the majority of the engine failures, especially in the Dragon RMK days. If the machine is used in a manner that was unintended, premature failure is inevitable. Even if your treating it "nice" you might not be treating it right. Seeing the throttle position data at a dealer would surprise most. You might think you ride your sled hard and grab lots of throttle, but the hard data would be an eye opener. Especially on mountain sleds where the position is constantly being varried.
 
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