Here it is. I've got about $120 bucks into this. It's inside dimensions are roughly 17" x 11.5" x a buckskin tall:face-icon-small-hap. What do you guys think? It's 100% waterproof and supposed to be all but indestructible!
Pelican Hard Case
- Thread starter owenbstory
- Start date
N
Interesting idea. I would have never thought about doing that. I don't think it is "waterproof" with those bolts through the bottom. Still more than good enough for a sled. Just dont go swimming with the seld upside down for long.....
Pelican cases are excellent across the board. I keep my sat phone and other essentials in a small Pelican case and throw in in the tunnel bag or backpack. I never worry about the contents being protected if I need them. The rest of my stuff is not so fragile or important.
Pelican cases are excellent across the board. I keep my sat phone and other essentials in a small Pelican case and throw in in the tunnel bag or backpack. I never worry about the contents being protected if I need them. The rest of my stuff is not so fragile or important.
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M
I install 2 of these very same cases on all the Kubota RTV's I prep before sending them underground to a salt mine. The cases outlast the units in the brine and salt
V
I did something very similar 2 years ago. Picked up the box on ebay for about $35. Picked up some white UHMW and machined out the cradles for the box to drop into. SS bolt to the slot channels and a single 1" nylon strap over the top. One buckle allows me to get into the box, but I can also remove the box to take it with me. I pack extra lunch stuff in it so it is nice to pop the box off and take into a shelter or wherever to eat. Also, I figured if I had to spend a night out somewhere I now had a way to take my dry gear with me and also something to sit on. No water gets in if you keep the lid closed.
Are those steel bars that it is mounted on?
S
Both of those cases are excellent ideas, gents!
T
No pictures but I just strap my Pelican box between the rails of my Vortech tunnel rack, works great!!
More info.
I should have gave a little more info. The 1500 series box I chose had two ribs that ran cross ways with two oval raised places that were dished in the middle, two on each end. That is where I drilled the 1/4 inch holes to attach to the TWO PIECES OF 1/2 INCH BLACK UHMW. The black uhmw I machined countersinks in for the heads of 1/4" carriage bolts to clear the tunnel. Also machined a groove in the middle with a ball mill for clearance on the cover of the wiring to the tail light. The 1/4" carriage bolts also fit the T-slots in the tunnel for the outer attach points like the factory. Also removed the handle of the box so it won't get hung up on anything.
As for the BUCKSKIN height inside, the book says 6.12". But I added some foam to the top and bottom of the inside so a can of coors original gets pinched and can't even move. Fits 4 across, I plan on packing 8 and using the rest of the box for more vital stuff. :evil:
I should have gave a little more info. The 1500 series box I chose had two ribs that ran cross ways with two oval raised places that were dished in the middle, two on each end. That is where I drilled the 1/4 inch holes to attach to the TWO PIECES OF 1/2 INCH BLACK UHMW. The black uhmw I machined countersinks in for the heads of 1/4" carriage bolts to clear the tunnel. Also machined a groove in the middle with a ball mill for clearance on the cover of the wiring to the tail light. The 1/4" carriage bolts also fit the T-slots in the tunnel for the outer attach points like the factory. Also removed the handle of the box so it won't get hung up on anything.
As for the BUCKSKIN height inside, the book says 6.12". But I added some foam to the top and bottom of the inside so a can of coors original gets pinched and can't even move. Fits 4 across, I plan on packing 8 and using the rest of the box for more vital stuff. :evil:
S
I Like it, i love my powder keg. no matter how much snow gets on it its a sealed unit. Not as sealed as these. One thing i hate about my powder keg?? the mounting hardware........3 rivets on both sides.... wish they had something that used the t rack system...
Nice job with the UHMW. I looked again at the picks and they still look like steel bars, lol. We sell Pelican products and they are TOUGH, you could put your lap top in there.
I was looking at doing the same thing but with vibration rubber mounts so that my camera won't get damaged in the case. Your setup looks like it is for mult-purpose so that might not matter.
Just out of curiosity, could you have put some pins through into the case from the UHMW with a rubber stop below the clip? Idea behind it would be, pull 4 clips and remove the entire case on the hill quickly and easily?
Something like this with a rubber washer and pin through eye hole? Would that be enough to keep the box solid on the sled and still allow easy removal?
http://images.cmsnl.com/img/products/95015-510-00-pin-a-joint_medium43472250000-01_8bf0.jpg
Something like this with a rubber washer and pin through eye hole? Would that be enough to keep the box solid on the sled and still allow easy removal?
http://images.cmsnl.com/img/products/95015-510-00-pin-a-joint_medium43472250000-01_8bf0.jpg
You and I are on the same page here... I just need to actually REMOVE the case before I do a big drop...
V
My single strap that goes over the top of my box keeps it nestled in the cradle blocks but also allows the box to come off quickly. Unsnap the strap, set the box off, buckle the strap back up and make your drop.
I went with this design so I could remove it, yet the box would stay in place when I opened it up and the box didn't slide off the sled. The bottoms of the cradles are supporting the box up just high enough to clear the tail light loom/rib.
I went with this design so I could remove it, yet the box would stay in place when I opened it up and the box didn't slide off the sled. The bottoms of the cradles are supporting the box up just high enough to clear the tail light loom/rib.
V buster, are those custom fabbed plastic pieces? Could you attach a more heavy duty strap?
V
I picked up the UHMW blanks at the local Mill Supply. I machined out the cradles and then attempted to lighten them up with the holes. I will make the holes bigger when I get back to prepping that sled.
I could have added as many or as large of a strap as I wanted. I could have made a cover with snaps, velcro, buckles, or whatever. The box fits down in the cradles well enough that there is no slop, then I snug the straps up tight so the buckle has a nice tight fit (you can see how tight the strap is in the first photo). The box barely wiggles up and down when reefing on it. This way, there is minimal areas for snow to build up on.
I have rolled the sled over many times getting it unstuck and the box is the least of my worries at this time.
I could have added as many or as large of a strap as I wanted. I could have made a cover with snaps, velcro, buckles, or whatever. The box fits down in the cradles well enough that there is no slop, then I snug the straps up tight so the buckle has a nice tight fit (you can see how tight the strap is in the first photo). The box barely wiggles up and down when reefing on it. This way, there is minimal areas for snow to build up on.
I have rolled the sled over many times getting it unstuck and the box is the least of my worries at this time.
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That's bada**! What could be more vital than Banquet Beers?
Removable
I used to have a sled that had a removable gas can rack that used a single spring loaded T-handle at one side to release the gas can and top half of the rack all at once. . . . . . . I'm sure something like that would be easy to remove and easy to attach one of the pelican boxes to.
Also to make my setup removable without the strap idea (which is a good one by the way) You could start with 1" thick UHMW and mill reliefs for the box to sit "down into" and mill the bottom off at the T slot locations to anchor a stud to the tunnel at four spots. and use hair pins to attach the strips to the tunnel, pull the pins and lift the box off.
I used to have a sled that had a removable gas can rack that used a single spring loaded T-handle at one side to release the gas can and top half of the rack all at once. . . . . . . I'm sure something like that would be easy to remove and easy to attach one of the pelican boxes to.
Also to make my setup removable without the strap idea (which is a good one by the way) You could start with 1" thick UHMW and mill reliefs for the box to sit "down into" and mill the bottom off at the T slot locations to anchor a stud to the tunnel at four spots. and use hair pins to attach the strips to the tunnel, pull the pins and lift the box off.
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