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Boondocker Turbo thread

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F
Nov 26, 2007
113
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www.boondockers.com
not to be a jerk fastgas, but i have called twice about the muffler for the m series turbos and emailed once about a price of this component. have not recieved a call or a return email. before you start spewing about what new you have coming tell us how much the products that you have out now are going to cost us.

now on to a lighter side of things good for you guys fastgas. i am glad that you are coming up with new ideas to make these things work. mine has done very well and i love the thing. how much would it cost to send in my controller which is one from a m7 kit and have the updates work on the m8. things like the power valve opening wire needs to be added. things like that.

Well, I'm no longer directly involved with Boondockers so I don't have certain answers, but I thought I'd pass along some info about the new exhaust for those struggling with those issues (I've seen parts being built so they should be available very soon) as well as planned updates for the control box for those interested (if you can wait a little longer). I think it will be unlikely customers will be notified of any updates - phones are constantly ringing, incoming calls are barely handled let alone trying to make outgoing calls. Just the nature of the sledding business - swamped during the snow months, dead the rest of the year...

Also, if you don't have the fuel regulator update I'd recommend doing that very soon which can cause idling problems due to not maintaining pressure at idle. There may also be an update that clamps the bottom of the M7/8 airbox to the throttle bodies for those still having troubles.
 
T

tube

Well-known member
Dec 3, 2007
243
136
43
47
Stony plain
fastgas,

is there any other problems reported with old style regulators other than at idle? I have the old one, but no problems as of yet; what else has gone wrong with the old regulators?

Mark; looks like next week on pricing and shipping of new exuast dump; will come ceramic coated which is will be nice.
 

diamonddave

Chilly’s Mentor
Lifetime Membership
Apr 5, 2006
5,569
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Wokeville, WA.
What happen? Did this thread go private or is everybody dialed in with no issues whatsoever? I've really enjoyed the reading and am seriously considering making the switch from 20 plus years of doo cause it seems that you guys have got your stink together. Keep up the good work and give me some more ammo!!!!!
 

bigrhett

Active member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
108
27
28
Alpine, UT
What happen? Did this thread go private or is everybody dialed in with no issues whatsoever? I've really enjoyed the reading and am seriously considering making the switch from 20 plus years of doo cause it seems that you guys have got your stink together. Keep up the good work and give me some more ammo!!!!!

I busted a crank...got it back 6 weeks later and it ran better than it has ever done, but "better" still isn't great. So, I took it to Shain (product tester) last week to get the secret sauce updates which include a new fuel pump, re-wired crap, new fuel pressure regulator, pure logic box and a re-direct of the tunnel exhaust dump into a new location.

We'll see how that works when it's done, and I'm hoping for great results!

P.S. Shain! hurry up will ya!
 
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VOHK

Well-known member
Premium Member
Mar 8, 2006
150
353
63
Colorado
www.vohk.com
Symtoms, diagnostics and repair

The majority of the TM8 issues can be boiled down to a handful of issues. The first and most common of which is with the charge box coming off of the throttle bodies. This can be remedied a number of ways, we strap the charge tube around then under the charge box and finally to the sway bar tube. (right or wrong it seems to work). As for the blow off, I have 1600 miles on my TM8 and have employed pretty much every commercially available blow off, and found the Turbo smart to be the best and most reliable, so yes we tested it. The next most prevalent problem is with Y-pipe cracking (sometimes even pipes), it takes only the smallest of cracks to set things awry, sometimes barely detectable by looking and suddenly it wont take fuel any longer. You find yourself leaning your 12 psi # alot to effect proper runnability. Surprisingly a 3/4" long crack can equal as much as 8pts @ 12psi. The answer is to inspect the y frequently and carefully, if a crack is found, remove and weld. Next is exhaust cap off in deep snow, for guys still running the old exhast..... get the new silenced exhaust. The new outlet design simply cures any related issues, its amazing. The next most common issue is not related to BD failure but an Arctic Cat failure, and is a CCU failure. This problem manifests itself as a severe lean popping on boost (bad, very bad) due to a dramatic lack of fuel pressure (and if wired to same harness the lack of aux injector function), this is caused by the loss of power to above said components (can be diagnosed by testing voltage to oil/fuel pump). Obvious repair is to replace the CCU. Another problem however not very common is the presence of water in the boost transducer and associated damage caused by freezing said water, the typical symptoms are erroneous boost readings especially at idle, and obvious poor runnability. I found by orienting the transducer fitting down it lessons the potential for stated damage.

Aside from that almost all other problems are generally caused by improper installation.
 

type_a_positive

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 27, 2007
392
70
28
Mongo Norway
The majority of the TM8 issues can be boiled down to a handful of issues. The first and most common of which is with the charge box coming off of the throttle bodies. This can be remedied a number of ways, we strap the charge tube around then under the charge box and finally to the sway bar tube. (right or wrong it seems to work). As for the blow off, I have 1600 miles on my TM8 and have employed pretty much every commercially available blow off, and found the Turbo smart to be the best and most reliable, so yes we tested it. The next most prevalent problem is with Y-pipe cracking (sometimes even pipes), it takes only the smallest of cracks to set things awry, sometimes barely detectable by looking and suddenly it wont take fuel any longer. You find yourself leaning your 12 psi # alot to effect proper runnability. Surprisingly a 3/4" long crack can equal as much as 8pts @ 12psi. The answer is to inspect the y frequently and carefully, if a crack is found, remove and weld. Next is exhaust cap off in deep snow, for guys still running the old exhast..... get the new silenced exhaust. The new outlet design simply cures any related issues, its amazing. The next most common issue is not related to BD failure but an Arctic Cat failure, and is a CCU failure. This problem manifests itself as a severe lean popping on boost (bad, very bad) due to a dramatic lack of fuel pressure (and if wired to same harness the lack of aux injector function), this is caused by the loss of power to above said components (can be diagnosed by testing voltage to oil/fuel pump). Obvious repair is to replace the CCU. Another problem however not very common is the presence of water in the boost transducer and associated damage caused by freezing said water, the typical symptoms are erroneous boost readings especially at idle, and obvious poor runnability. I found by orienting the transducer fitting down it lessons the potential for stated damage.

Aside from that almost all other problems are generally caused by improper installation.


Thanks a billion!!!
 
D
Dec 29, 2007
95
2
8
Norway
The majority of the TM8 issues can be boiled down to a handful of issues. The first and most common of which is with the charge box coming off of the throttle bodies. This can be remedied a number of ways, we strap the charge tube around then under the charge box and finally to the sway bar tube. (right or wrong it seems to work). As for the blow off, I have 1600 miles on my TM8 and have employed pretty much every commercially available blow off, and found the Turbo smart to be the best and most reliable, so yes we tested it. The next most prevalent problem is with Y-pipe cracking (sometimes even pipes), it takes only the smallest of cracks to set things awry, sometimes barely detectable by looking and suddenly it wont take fuel any longer. You find yourself leaning your 12 psi # alot to effect proper runnability. Surprisingly a 3/4" long crack can equal as much as 8pts @ 12psi. The answer is to inspect the y frequently and carefully, if a crack is found, remove and weld. Next is exhaust cap off in deep snow, for guys still running the old exhast..... get the new silenced exhaust. The new outlet design simply cures any related issues, its amazing. The next most common issue is not related to BD failure but an Arctic Cat failure, and is a CCU failure. This problem manifests itself as a severe lean popping on boost (bad, very bad) due to a dramatic lack of fuel pressure (and if wired to same harness the lack of aux injector function), this is caused by the loss of power to above said components (can be diagnosed by testing voltage to oil/fuel pump). Obvious repair is to replace the CCU. Another problem however not very common is the presence of water in the boost transducer and associated damage caused by freezing said water, the typical symptoms are erroneous boost readings especially at idle, and obvious poor runnability. I found by orienting the transducer fitting down it lessons the potential for stated damage.

Aside from that almost all other problems are generally caused by improper installation.

Great post VOHK!

I assume most of these problems are found in the previous seasons BD kits! Do you know if any of these issues are fixed in the 07/08 season BD kit?
 

VOHK

Well-known member
Premium Member
Mar 8, 2006
150
353
63
Colorado
www.vohk.com
To some degree these issues are experienced on current season kits. Some kits shipped with a sub standard fuel pressure regulator this season also, however BD is glad to exchange the small unamed silver pressure reg for a proper quality Turbo smart reg at no charge. Also in an effort to constantly improve the product, BD offers a series of program upgrades which address specific runnability issues.
 
D
Dec 29, 2007
95
2
8
Norway
To some degree these issues are experienced on current season kits. Some kits shipped with a sub standard fuel pressure regulator this season also, however BD is glad to exchange the small unamed silver pressure reg for a proper quality Turbo smart reg at no charge. Also in an effort to constantly improve the product, BD offers a series of program upgrades which address specific runnability issues.

I see!
Received my kit a few weeks ago and I just got started on "bolting" everything on. My kit included the Turbosmart fuel pressure regulator and blowoff valve, so hopefully...
It doesn't snow as much over here, so I'm dumping the exhaust out the tunnel for now!

Thanks
 

bigrhett

Active member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
108
27
28
Alpine, UT
Vohk (or anyone that can help)

I'm running the boondocker kit on my m1000 and have now cracked 3 y-pipes...the first two were right at the welds on next to the cylinders...today it cracked right in the middle of the metal about an inch from the grafoil seal.

Welding when it breaks at the weld is not too tough, but welding a "t" shaped crack in the middle of the y-pipe doesn't seem like it's going to hold very long. I have already converted the bolt-end that goes into the turbo to another grafoil, and I got 2 1/2 rides out of a y-pipe (normally I'd get 1 ride if I was lucky).

So, my question is: Is there a stronger y-pipe that can last longer than 2 freaking rides, OR is there another way to stop the stock one from cracking every other ride? We were lucky to get out of where we were...it could have been ugly.

I do have the tunnel dump if that makes a difference.
 
I
Nov 28, 2007
243
1
18
Orem, Utah
Rhett...and everyone else..

All of you that that have the the tunnel dump, change it out immediately! That was the most freakin' stupid idea that Boondocker came up with. All it does is plug up in deep snow and even ten times worse breaks pipes and y-pipes over and over and over. i along with a few friends had Brad install the quiet muffler out the side vent and NONE of us have had one issue. My personal m1000 and my m8 have not had any pipe issues.


The reason why this happens is because the pipe cant move when the motor torques up, thus cracking the weakest point, the pipe or ypipe. i have seen it on 4 sleds now..all have tunnel dump.
 
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D
Dec 29, 2007
95
2
8
Norway
Rhett...and everyone else..

All of you that that have the the tunnel dump, change it out immediately! That was the most freakin' stupid idea that Boondockler came up with. All it does is plug up in deep and snow and even ten times worse break pipes and y-pipes over and over and over. i along with a few friends had Brad install the quiet muffler out the side vent and NONE of us have had one issue. My personal m1000 and my m8 have not had any pipe issues.


The reason why this happens is because the pipe cant move when the motor torques up, thus cracking the weakest point, the pipe or ypipe. i have seen it on 4 sleds now..all have tunnel dump.

Where to buy this quiet muffer? Unable to find any that would fit without any modifications...
 

bigrhett

Active member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
108
27
28
Alpine, UT
Thanks Jason...Brad had said that the tunnel dump was hurting me with the pipes cracking, but I was hoping the grafoil on the turbo would help...it did, but obviously not enough :mad:

I know the next step.
 
D
Dec 29, 2007
95
2
8
Norway
call brad story at 801-920-6508..he'll hook you up.

Brad seems to be a hard man to get in touch with. Just getting his voicemail, probably busy riding his sled :)

Anyhoo, could someone PM me his e-mail adress? A lot easier to send e-mails due to the timezone difference, and cheaper for him than returning my long distance phone call!
 

RACINSTATION

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Jan 14, 2003
7,503
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113
Idaho
If you can't get ahold of Brad, let me know. We have the new silenced exhaust in stock.
 

VOHK

Well-known member
Premium Member
Mar 8, 2006
150
353
63
Colorado
www.vohk.com
The previously offered "tunnel dump" as you describe it, was a problem in deep snow conditions. Therfore a new style tunnel outlet system was developed, this new style unit exits behind the drivers and infront of the front arm (reffer to as "suspension dump"). By exiting in this void we have experienced absolutely no poor runnability in deep snow. This is an effective, quiet SOLUTION, period.
 
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