Axys rpm fade ?
- Thread starter dexter
- Start date
Soon cat will be using that vid and marketing a new safety feature with it - ACES - Arctic Cat Ejection System. "Too fast, too steep, too deep, too much clutch heat, not enough snow in the skid - ACES activates and launches you out of imminent danger."*
*Tekvest not included. No pilot license required. Free Tucker Saves sticker and membership in the Cat's Pride Orbit Club.
*Tekvest not included. No pilot license required. Free Tucker Saves sticker and membership in the Cat's Pride Orbit Club.
S
balls
The cats look a little chubby and panel out pretty quick in the steep terrain, but with the super charger, they handle the extra weight pretty well =)
Should be plenty of power to haul gramma around this season too lol
Should be plenty of power to haul gramma around this season too lol
S
not for me.at 1:10 it looks like he riding a hippo or yamaha.LOL
Corrected it for you.....
S
.lets hope the new poo dont fade out before getting outta the snow park.
It'll fade right out of site of the ol doo doo
S
get yer snow flap stickers now before they sell out.only $19.95.LOL
M
I wouldn't worry about it too much if I were you guys. Polaris will take care of you.
N
if any of you guys have a true fade issue? you will notice a change in engine tone. Polaris is using the cable controlled ex. valves for motor protection.
in some ways this is better then pulling timing, adding fuel, etc. what happens is the ecu drops the ex. valves to mid position. this doesn't allow the motor to spin much over 7400 rpm.
bad pipe seal at the wye pipe not allowing the pipe temp sensor to read right. the ecu adds fuel and pulls timing to correct this. the result lower then noramal rpm/power. clutch heat/belt slip. remember the ecu monitors rpm, vs. jackshaft speed, vs. load, etc. if something doesn't add up it closes the valves to mid position. air trapped in the cooling system. causing minor det. the ecu will take means to correct this. and for some reason it doesn't record that its happing in all cases. the means pull timing add fuel. the result loss rpm/ power. now the big one tps sensor adjustment. it has to be .700 at base. throttle plates fully closed. no higher. idle voltage .415-.417 max and the wot voltage no higher then 4.38 volts. any higher the sled runs pig rich. cooling off the pipe temp sensor. the ecu trys to correct this but its but the preprograming in the ecu is wrong. it pulls timing and adds fuel. pipe gets colder. not hotter. then it closes the valves. this is on the 15 sleds. won't know until I get a 16 in my hands weather or not something is changed? one other problem. the tps sensor is now on the ex. side. this changes the tps voltage when the sensor gets hot. I believe it disport's the plastic housing when this happens. this is why this fade issue with most is after 30-80 miles or so. and worse on warmer days. make a heat shield and put a piece of alum. foil tape right on the sensor.
and don't just take to a dealer and have the tps checked out on the d-wrench. it can be in Polaris parameters and still not be right. this is why the dealers can't find the problem. you must insist the check/adjust it starting at the base voltage with the throttle plates closed. not just look at a computer screen and say everything is fine.
in some ways this is better then pulling timing, adding fuel, etc. what happens is the ecu drops the ex. valves to mid position. this doesn't allow the motor to spin much over 7400 rpm.
bad pipe seal at the wye pipe not allowing the pipe temp sensor to read right. the ecu adds fuel and pulls timing to correct this. the result lower then noramal rpm/power. clutch heat/belt slip. remember the ecu monitors rpm, vs. jackshaft speed, vs. load, etc. if something doesn't add up it closes the valves to mid position. air trapped in the cooling system. causing minor det. the ecu will take means to correct this. and for some reason it doesn't record that its happing in all cases. the means pull timing add fuel. the result loss rpm/ power. now the big one tps sensor adjustment. it has to be .700 at base. throttle plates fully closed. no higher. idle voltage .415-.417 max and the wot voltage no higher then 4.38 volts. any higher the sled runs pig rich. cooling off the pipe temp sensor. the ecu trys to correct this but its but the preprograming in the ecu is wrong. it pulls timing and adds fuel. pipe gets colder. not hotter. then it closes the valves. this is on the 15 sleds. won't know until I get a 16 in my hands weather or not something is changed? one other problem. the tps sensor is now on the ex. side. this changes the tps voltage when the sensor gets hot. I believe it disport's the plastic housing when this happens. this is why this fade issue with most is after 30-80 miles or so. and worse on warmer days. make a heat shield and put a piece of alum. foil tape right on the sensor.
and don't just take to a dealer and have the tps checked out on the d-wrench. it can be in Polaris parameters and still not be right. this is why the dealers can't find the problem. you must insist the check/adjust it starting at the base voltage with the throttle plates closed. not just look at a computer screen and say everything is fine.
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