The old 14 still outclimbs the new.

Just so happens I wound up with my old 14.
The 18 is a great sled and I am not trying to take away from what it is. I am however telling anyone wanting more how to get it.
The only place the 14 outperformed was when you really load the track in a climb or hard technical turns where you can plant the track and wheelie to maneuver.
Otherwise the 18 is pretty much what I've been shooting for since '12. Although now the boards need improved and raised, add steering, grippers, clutching and gears. I guess there is a lot to do.
Anyway, the new clutching works pretty good but not as good as the old if fixed.
The 18 primary is good.
The secondary works but doesn't work, the gearing is wrong.

The 14 has a ds can, 911 clutch cover,
stock weights (I ruined the Mds before I sold it because the clutch failed) the Mds actually pulled harder.
The 14 secondary machined by Tom @Mountain valley motor sports in Cody, wy (this is key)
Tki belt Drive with 2.42 gears, 8 tooth drivers with 3" pc.
Burandt boards and steering mod, otherwise stock.
No HP mods. In reality only about 20lb weight loss but i was packing 8-10lbs on the sled that the 18 wasn't.

CO2 and i compared his 16 to the 14 and without gear I'm 55lbs heavier. The 14 pulled on his 16. We switched and I couldn't even pull the hill on his 16 and he flat walked away. It was baffling.
The 18 was better but was also a 162, but it just didn't have the pull. Great all around but the 14 felt like a diesel compared to the others.

On the flat the 18 would walk .5-1.5 lengths right off, I had to lean forward and ease into it to stay within .5.
Then it pulled in the mid a length then ran even.
The pull in the mid wad the only thing that really impressed, but I outweighed the rider on the 18 by 60lbs.

18 is impressive but why is the 14 pulling away when loaded.
I believe it is mainly the diameter of the secondary inner circle.
As much as I would hate to do it, I would go back to the 14 Jack shaft and secondary with machine work and gear up. I just can't leave that much on the table.

Everything I've tried in 16 and 17 never felt right and I knew there was more, now it's proven.

But the 18 is still an animal but I don't like the 162. 153 is a better combo.

As for you turbo guys, it really needs the other clutching to use that boosted torque.

Btw, the 14 is for sale $5500 obo 1180 miles. Needs to go. I'll sell it for 4500 without mods. ($4400 worth of mods)
Or I'll trade someone the mods for stock parts and 2000 (tki, machined secondary, 911 cover, d's can, 3" track)
Also have a mountain fit hood to deal with.

kiliki said:

funny how your previous post on gearing have change.

Click to expand...

Changed? Haven't really changed.

You have to factor the extent to how far a person goes, how much time, money and style changes as you go.

But I've always stated 2.4ish Is where you to be. But getting the 16+ secondary to agree with it is the challenge. Haven't had the time to figure it out yet.

The huge diameter of the cam creates aggressive back shift that reduces the slingshot style upshift that allows for maximum pull.
Maybe a reverse torsion setup would work.

I need about 10k worth of cnc'd clutch parts and a month to test, I'm pretty sure I could solve it.
Or just get a billet old secondary and roll.

It's a 14 secondary with a 36 helix but it's the machined secondary.

I had a belt Drive on my 16 with multiple ratios, multiple helix s, springs etc .

The large diameter of the helix creates a massive amount of back shift.
So much that it overrides the up shift.

When i saw reverse torsional I mean a torsional that works backwards, one that actually helps up shift not back shift. It's never been done and wad kinda a joke, makes me curious though.

If you try a torsional, I've heard good about cutler. Also heard bmp just put the old clutch on there race sleds.

8 tooth helps, but still no where close, drop case helps but still not enough.
Both together are a big improvement but still it's the secondary.

$4400 in mods aren't needed to beat it. ( that's including the 3") All you need is a jackshaft, gears and old secondary, machined on s 16 up. Could be done for 1-2k depending on new or used parts. Obviously a tki is preferable.

You just wouldn't think a 4 year old sled would pull on the new.