Axys belt life/rpm fade issues?

Wheel House Motorsports · Apr 2, 2017

So I see everyone always raving over how great the POO's do on belts and how well the clutching works. Mine suck hard, whats up.

What gives, I cannot seem to get more then 2-300 miles before pulling threads to the point of near explosion or delaminating pieces of them (gates Carbon).

I have 2 sleds now, 16 and 17 both are 155 2.6 QD's I also get pretty bad RPM fad, seems even worse on my 17 compared to my 16. Start a pull at 8100 if everything is all nice and cool and if I go for a longer pull ( 10+ seconds of WOT) I keep losing rpm and often land around 7500. My 2017 only has 580 miles on it and its really bad.

Both sleds never get more then 500 miles on clutch springs before I change them, sheaves get cleaned every 2-3 rides. clutches blown out between every ride.

When I do fresh belt and springs everything seems to work 'better' but still fades fairly bad. when things start to have 100+ miles on them its back to the same old garbage.

Spaarky · Apr 2, 2017

NA or boosted?

Wheel House Motorsports · Apr 2, 2017

NA,

Ive run both completely stock clutching with stock exhaust, stock with a can, full SLP pipe/can as well as tried the black/purple secondary spring to help maintain better backshift. They all have their own little quirks but generally it still makes a ton of heat, poor belt life and bad fade.

Sheetmetalfab · Apr 2, 2017

They are extremely sensitive to deflection adjustments. ********
Too tight or loose will effect this.

The slp magnum force weights work well.

Primary rollers have been bad in as little as 200 miles.
Check them for sticking.

The ev relay having a little corrosion in the connection will cause the exact symptoms you described.
(The wavering/ and low peak rpm)

A few guys have had loose motor mounts in 300-400 miles and seen great improvement with torque arms.

One guy here in ak has replaced 2 ev cables from stretching.
Same symptoms.

Oh yeah quit using the gates belts.
They seem to work well for folks who don't ride hard.
(Not for abuse)

Wheel House Motorsports · Apr 2, 2017

Sheetmetalfab said:
They are extremely sensitive to deflection adjustments. ********
Too tight or loose will effect this.

The slp magnum force weights work well.

Primary rollers have been bad in as little as 200 miles.
Check them for sticking.

The ev relay having a little corrosion in the connection will cause the exact symptoms you described.
(The wavering/ and low peak rpm)

A few guys have had loose motor mounts in 300-400 miles and seen great improvement with torque arms.

One guy here in ak has replaced 2 ev cables from stretching.
Same symptoms.

Oh yeah quit using the gates belts.
They seem to work well for folks who don't ride hard.
(Not for abuse)

Ill double check my exhaust valve stuff, my 17 was bought mid feb and basically all rode in 1' of fresh or less, enclosed trailer only and lives in a heated shop so im not too worried of electrical gremlins yet. Altho it is definately in my mind, ive seen it go bad firsthand plenty. Mine seems to be more related to clutch heat then a totally random fade. Maybe have to take it to the dealer to enjoy some warranty work.

Im moving back away from the gates belts. I could get them very cheap compared to OEM belts but again like you said they do not seem to tolerate nonstop abuse.

I have checked my rollers in both clutches numerous times on both sleds to verify nothing is binding.

Sheetmetalfab · Apr 2, 2017

Copper based anti sieze in connections.

Sheetmetalfab · Apr 2, 2017

The 100 miles til fade is likely how quickly the gates has worn and deflection is off.

After 400 miles with the oem belts deflection adjustments don't seem to help as much.

I ended up with a stock pro helix (stock secondary spring) and team bright green primary spring. 67 grams in the magnum force weights.

Fresh primary spring every 300 miles. (At 950 miles now)

AdrenalineAddict · Apr 2, 2017

Is the EV cable/wire adjustable? When it stretches do you throw it away and replace? I'm having serious RPM issues at 1,400 miles, I've dropped 6 grams and it still won't rev past 7,900 r's.

Sheetmetalfab · Apr 2, 2017

AdrenalineAddict said:
Is the EV cable/wire adjustable? When it stretches do you throw it away and replace? I'm having serious RPM issues at 1,400 miles, I've dropped 6 grams and it still won't rev past 7,900 r's.

I bet money it's your relay connection. ^^^^
Or an actual bad relay.

When the cable stretches the dealer needs to adjust and relearn the actuator

With digital wrench

Wheel House Motorsports · Apr 2, 2017

Sheetmetalfab said:
The 100 miles til fade is likely how quickly the gates has worn and deflection is off.

After 400 miles with the oem belts deflection adjustments don't seem to help as much.

I ended up with a stock pro helix (stock secondary spring) and team bright green primary spring. 67 grams in the magnum force weights.

Fresh primary spring every 300 miles. (At 950 miles now)

I set deflection every 1-2 rides as well... this thing sees about 100x more maintenance then the average rider. I spend just about every night in the shop with the sled checking one thing or another over. This is why I have been so troubled by it.

I might have to drop the sled off at the dealer and have them give the EV system a look as my 17 has been getting REALLY bad with fade. This could be EV issuse stacked with the fact it is getting a lot warmer our now being spring here so adding some heat soak on top of general engine performance.

Sheetmetalfab · Apr 2, 2017

Wheel House Motorsports said:
I set deflection every 1-2 rides as well... this thing sees about 100x more maintenance then the average rider. I spend just about every night in the shop with the sled checking one thing or another over. This is why I have been so troubled by it.

I might have to drop the sled off at the dealer and have them give the EV system a look as my 17 has been getting REALLY bad with fade. This could be EV issuse stacked with the fact it is getting a lot warmer our now being spring here so adding some heat soak on top of general engine performance.

Check the clutch alignment?
If it has sucked since day one...........

Oh yeah sounds familiar on the checking things over constantly.

Wheel House Motorsports · Apr 2, 2017

Sheetmetalfab said:
Check the clutch alignment?
If it has sucked since day one...........

Oh yeah sounds familiar on the checking things over constantly.

It was pretty good right away but the first 150 miles I put on at a lower then normal riding zone so all sleds feel amazing there and it was running slightly less then recommended weight for the elevation, and I really didnt pay too much attention until around 200 miles as I was in breakin still, and as you know, at that point, a Polaris is already needing parts replaced. lol

icr · Apr 2, 2017

Wheel House Motorsports said:
I might have to drop the sled off at the dealer and have them give the EV system a look as my 17 has been getting REALLY bad with fade. This could be EV issuse stacked with the fact it is getting a lot warmer our now being spring here so adding some heat soak on top of general engine performance.

No personal experience but I've heard the fuel mapping is rich in above freezing temps.

Sheetmetalfab · Apr 2, 2017

Wheel House Motorsports said:
It was pretty good right away but the first 150 miles I put on at a lower then normal riding zone so all sleds feel amazing there and it was running slightly less then recommended weight for the elevation, and I really didnt pay too much attention until around 200 miles as I was in breakin still, and as you know, at that point, a Polaris is already needing parts replaced. lol

Exactly.

High maintenance biotches.
Like a hot chick, TLC in and she puts out.

Like ICR said though the mapping sucks in warm temps.
Usually the snow does too so it's not as big a deal.......
#unlessmashedtaters

damx · Apr 3, 2017

If your going through belts look at indy specialies clutch kit. I could pull cords in under 100 miles before, with his kit I'm getting about 500 miles and the belt looks mint, with a green color to it. just down a bit on rpm.I use them when the snow gets hard.

motoracer5 · Apr 3, 2017

Fresh motor mounts, fly weight bushings and proper deflection stop the fade for me. I find the the weights start grinding into the clutch after 800km or so.

Overthehood · Apr 3, 2017

icr said:
No personal experience but I've heard the fuel mapping is rich in above freezing temps.

I love this sled but I am frustrated with a 2017 that is only pulling 8000 rpm with 61 gram weights SLP stage 2 at 9000 ft. 300 miles. I'm convinced it is either a weak motor or ecu failure to compensate for warm temps and elevation. I saw it on my Pro ride sleds as well some worse than others. I'm soon going to be down to 58 grams and my Pro rides always pulled that much or more weight than that.

Wheel House Motorsports · Apr 3, 2017

Overthehood said:
I love this sled but I am frustrated with a 2017 that is only pulling 8000 rpm with 61 gram weights SLP stage 2 at 9000 ft. 300 miles. I'm convinced it is either a weak motor or ecu failure to compensate for warm temps and elevation. I saw it on my Pro ride sleds as well some worse than others. I'm soon going to be down to 58 grams and my Pro rides always pulled that much or more weight than that.

I'm in thr same boat. Slp stage 2 and I can't even pull stock clutching for my elevation and get mega fade.

diamonddave · Apr 4, 2017

Probably ride to F'n hard Nick.

Sorry, in all seriousness if the valves are working properly, it might be time for a teardown. Ring failure is even worse than the Pro-Ride.

We tore down a '16 last weekend with 600 miles that reminded me of a Pro with 1,500 miles. Low and fading RPM.

Low and faded RPM has been a symptom going back to the Dragon days.

Btw, have you checked alignment ??

Teth-Air · Apr 4, 2017

As far as belt life, gearing the AXYS down to 2.5:1 approx. makes a huge difference in belt life. Much more fun in heavy spring snow too.

Axys belt life/rpm fade issues?

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