Deflection adjusters

officer farva · May 20, 2017

Who's running an aftermarket belt deflection adjuster? Ones I've seen available so far are Osp, slp, bikeman, thunder products, and CPC who have two available. Floating and non floating.

Any pros and cons? I like that you can use them to take the belt off easier. Also like that you can fine tune your deflection with fine adjustments.

Anyone running the floating style adjuster? How does that work? How can it float and keep proper deflection? Do you still set your initial offset with the 1.485 bar?

Any input is greatly appreciated

xfiredude · May 20, 2017

I've got an SLP adjuster. It's better than stock, but that's about it. It's almost impossible to turn by hand when it's cold. I use a spanner wrench , or a channel lock pliers. After running for a while it warms up and is easier to turn. Cheapest of the bunch tho.

I to would like to hear about the "floating" adjuster. Doesn't make sense to me how it could float and keep deflection.

officer farva · May 20, 2017

Thanks for the input on the slp. They are cheap I can get one for $60 new which is very affordable. It looks like it has extra holes in the front. Can you put a bolt in it like the skidoo clutch to open the sheaves up so you don't have to move the deflection adjustment nut?

And that's my same question with the floating one? How can it float and hold consistent deflection.

mja · May 21, 2017

I have the floating version from cutlers and had asked the same questions. Never got a definitive answer and I never could get it to float with keeping the deflection, even after doing per the instructions. I even tried a dry fit on the bench with a extra shaft and clutch and never got it to work. After a lot of beer, measurements and frustration I took it off and went back to the stock way of doing it. Right now it is a paper weight on the bench.

Readymedic · May 21, 2017

I also have a CPC adjuster. Supposed to be floating, I cannot see how it floats, it fits tight.
The adjustability is nice, but I also went back to stock.

officer farva · May 21, 2017

mja said:
I have the floating version from cutlers and had asked the same questions. Never got a definitive answer and I never could get it to float with keeping the deflection, even after doing per the instructions. I even tried a dry fit on the bench with a extra shaft and clutch and never got it to work. After a lot of beer, measurements and frustration I took it off and went back to the stock way of doing it. Right now it is a paper weight on the bench.

That's what my question is? I called them Friday to talk to them and they were busy and didn't get a chance to call me back. Hopefully Monday I'll be able to touch base with someone about it. Did you ever run it?

Readymedic said:
I also have a CPC adjuster. Supposed to be floating, I cannot see how it floats, it fits tight.
The adjustability is nice, but I also went back to stock.

What was your reason for going back to stock ?

Vern · May 21, 2017

I don't have one, but my understanding with the floating adjusters is this, when at rest there is no float because the contact of the adjuster to the front of the clutch is needed to initially set deflection. Once your moving however, the clutch has opened up creating a gap between the adjuster and helix which then allows for float. So it'll only float when on the throttle some and the secondary has shifted a bit, come to a stop, secondary goes to full close position and helix makes contact with adjuster again which looses the float, but keeps deflection set where you want it.

Does that make sense? Like I said I don't have one, this is just my take on them from my own research.

officer farva · May 21, 2017

Vern said:
I don't have one, but my understanding with the floating adjusters is this, when at rest there is no float because the contact of the adjuster to the front of the clutch is needed to initially set deflection. Once your moving however, the clutch has opened up creating a gap between the adjuster and helix which then allows for float. So it'll only float when on the throttle some and the secondary has shifted a bit, come to a stop, secondary goes to full close position and helix makes contact with adjuster again which looses the float, but keeps deflection set where you want it.

Does that make sense? Like I said I don't have one, this is just my take on them from my own research.

Thanks Vern that does make sense. So it would seem then that the clutch can only float out then to help alignment cause that's where the gap is going to be.

xfiredude · May 21, 2017

officer farva said:
Thanks for the input on the slp. They are cheap I can get one for $60 new which is very affordable. It looks like it has extra holes in the front. Can you put a bolt in it like the skidoo clutch to open the sheaves up so you don't have to move the deflection adjustment nut?

The 2 holes on the outside are to keep the adjuster from backing off. You gotta turn the adjuster in (clockwise) to open sheeves to replace belt.

Vern's explanation makes sense. It would only have to float when moving.

Betterview · May 21, 2017

I really can not see any benefit that can be derived by having the driven "float". The driven is on a roughly machined, splined shaft that barely extends half way through the driven assembly. I seriously doubt that with 150 or more horsepower pulling on the non polished and minimally lubricated splines there is any chance of any lateral movement of the driven to allow for the belt to run a bit more true.

officer farva · May 21, 2017

Betterview said:
I really can not see any benefit that can be derived by having the driven "float". The driven is on a roughly machined, splined shaft that barely extends half way through the driven assembly. I seriously doubt that with 150 or more horsepower pulling on the non polished and minimally lubricated splines there is any chance of any lateral movement of the driven to allow for the belt to run a bit more true.

I can see the benefit of it floating. But I just don't see it actually moving on the splines. I have a bdx titanium jack shaft that's machinesd far nicer that the stock. And the driven clutch still moves "gritty" in and out on the splines, Especially under load.

I'd love input from someone who's run one of the floating ones. Any negative effects?

Readymedic · May 22, 2017

On a stand, moving through the rpms, it all stays tight . It appears that nothing floats unless I was missing something. Maybe under load.
The other reason I took it off is because I searched, asked many dealers and many people and no could give me a straight answer on how much belt deflection is supposed to be on my 14. So went back to the shims.
So.... I will put the question out here...how much above the top of the clutches.
I have been told anywhere from 1/4 inch to just under the the lip of the clutches. Some guys say just so it quits squeeling.
Any comments?

xfiredude · May 22, 2017

Just so it quits squealing. Mine will squeak when the motor shuts down.

officer farva · May 22, 2017

Readymedic said:
On a stand, moving through the rpms, it all stays tight . It appears that nothing floats unless I was missing something. Maybe under load.
The other reason I took it off is because I searched, asked many dealers and many people and no could give me a straight answer on how much belt deflection is supposed to be on my 14. So went back to the shims.
So.... I will put the question out here...how much above the top of the clutches.
I have been told anywhere from 1/4 inch to just under the the lip of the clutches. Some guys say just so it quits squeeling.
Any comments?

The service manual has you set the deflection way too lose. I always set mine to where it just slightly squeaks occasionally. The problem I have is with the slightly longer belt I'm running with machined clutches is I can't get the deflection set tight enough with the shims.

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Deflection adjusters

officer farva

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xfiredude

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mja

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Readymedic

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Vern

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