protecting the ECU?

thefullmonte · Dec 30, 2009

Have read on here that a few people have had voltage regulator failures. As well this happened to a friends sled a couple of times. This in turn takes out the ECU and in some cases the motor.
My question would be if there is a way to build in a fail safe for the ECU? Could we possibly put a fuse between them? Anyone have some thoughts or experience with this? That is my last area of concern that I will need to fix and I'm just not sure how to do it.
Thanks :beer;

Ron · Dec 30, 2009

Great question-why can a short or voltage spike ruin the ECU? Is this something that the mfct'r should build into the system? You don't see this with auto's why on sleds?

skibreeze · Dec 30, 2009

Very good questions, wtf does a $100 part have to destroy a motor when it goes bad? Mine is in the shop now getting rebuilt and I suspect the V.R. is the culprit for the 2nd time. I've been wondering if it is the regulator that is crappy or is the stator blowing the regulator. This is a question I will be asking the tech. if in fact it is the V.R. that went out on mine. Mine currently has the updated part #, so truly WTF?

thefullmonte · Dec 30, 2009

I would think the stator would for some reason have to be producing an ungodly amount of voltage to damage an voltage regulator. In theory you should be able to run with all of the electronics off including headlight and taillight and it should be able to handle that load. All the voltage regulator does is act as a voltage dump. It bleeds off excess voltage when not needed ensuring that individual components are only receiving a specific amount.
Basically, it is there to prevent exactly what has happened to Skibreeze and others. Unfortunately If they do fail you are left with nothing. I am curious too as to why they are failing in the first place as this isn't really a common part to fail.

And rather than shorting to ground when they do fail they are apparently sending a large voltage spike to components that aren't designed to take it.
I will have to do more research into what kind of amperage is going from the regulator to the ECU. I would surely think a person could fuse that somehow. I also found a waterproof LED volt meter in Parts Unlimited. At least the lights might be bright enough to catch your attention if it did spike.
I'm hoping someone with more electronics expertise can chime in and help us out here a bit. It would be nice to add a simple fail safe just for peace of mind anyway.

:beer;

tree-magnet · Dec 30, 2009

ecu damage

My VR & ECU & capacitor went out on sunday. 430 miles on sled. 3 weeks past warranty,,$650.00 dollar fix. Not counting I was over 1000 feet down a switch back trail. My sled spent the night down there, thank god for two of my friends having the day off on monday. We block & tackled it all the way to top, about 6 hours of hell. I think a chain saw winch should come stock with the new 800"s.

We need some kind of protection to save the regulator for sure..

crix · Dec 30, 2009

monte - Thats a great question I asked the same thing sitting in the shop in laramie last winter with my assault VR toast and all they said was they wonder the same thing

All I think you would need to know is amp limits each componet needs and then size fuse accordingly like 10% higher than max. amp load per componet. It would have to be after the VR since when the VR is ok there are no High voltage/amp spikes present, but when It does fail who knows what componets go with it ???

Head light taillight and minor componets I could care less about but fuses between, but the ecu, gauges, ev solonoid etc would be great, then you know you have a issue with the voltage regulator or possible stator. Throw a new fuse in and head for home worst case have to tow it out but not have to replace a expensive electrical parts

honestly riding with my dads dragon Im not sure what we will do if it goes down again were leaving on a trip sunday just us two at least we have a cat to get us out

leave the dragon there

rmkboxer · Dec 30, 2009

the problem with a fuse is it will not blow with a voltage spike, it will only blow if the load on it is a higher. I have not heard of any dragons with electric start having this issue. something to be said there. the best thing to have is to keep a load on it. what I am wondering is can you add in a older style voltage regulator as a back up or will this not work. the 05 m7's would smoke the ecms if the headlight was removed even with the resistor pack they had that you could put on it.

Silber · Dec 30, 2009

rmkboxer said:
the problem with a fuse is it will not blow with a voltage spike, it will only blow if the load on it is a higher. I have not heard of any dragons with electric start having this issue. something to be said there. the best thing to have is to keep a load on it. what I am wondering is can you add in a older style voltage regulator as a back up or will this not work. the 05 m7's would smoke the ecms if the headlight was removed even with the resistor pack they had that you could put on it.

Pulled one out last year with electric start, that had the regulator go and toast the computer. So it can happen to any of them.

900 POLCAT · Dec 30, 2009

rmkboxer said:
the problem with a fuse is it will not blow with a voltage spike, it will only blow if the load on it is a higher. I have not heard of any dragons with electric start having this issue. something to be said there. the best thing to have is to keep a load on it. what I am wondering is can you add in a older style voltage regulator as a back up or will this not work. the 05 m7's would smoke the ecms if the headlight was removed even with the resistor pack they had that you could put on it.

I agree, pulled mine out last weekend, vr and ecu gone, fuses blow because of high load (amperage).

skibreeze · Dec 30, 2009

So can you piggyback a regulator to the regulator? Or can another type be used?

The stock one has 3 yellow inputs, 2 brown gnds., 2 red, and 3 orange wires that run to the ECU.

EricW · Dec 30, 2009

07 700 Dragon is down with the same issues I believe. I'm going to start with the regulator then ECU/capacitor if needed. Bad deal.

I don't understand all I know about this electrical stuff, lol. I'll be watching and maybe buying breakfast for my local Radio Shack guru whoknows everything. Great post Monte. EW

GMCRMK · Dec 31, 2009

Couldn't you install an automotive circuit breaker between the VR and ECU. Would it trip when spiked?

mn2mtns · Dec 31, 2009

It isn't just the Polaris regulators that go to high voltage when they go bad. I had one go out on my old Harley a few years ago and it was putting out about 18 volts when it wasn't working. That was an old carburated bike so it didn't have an ecu to fry otherwise it probably would have. Are there way more problems with the newer regulators (by updated part number) than the old one like on my 2007 dragon or doesn't it seem to matter?

rmk_900 · Dec 31, 2009

what about installing a DC voltage surge protector.... if you are worried about it, this would work. There are many types and sizes that are solid state, and work to protect electronics

AKSNOWRIDER · Dec 31, 2009

mn2mtns said:
It isn't just the Polaris regulators that go to high voltage when they go bad. I had one go out on my old Harley a few years ago and it was putting out about 18 volts when it wasn't working. That was an old carburated bike so it didn't have an ecu to fry otherwise it probably would have. Are there way more problems with the newer regulators (by updated part number) than the old one like on my 2007 dragon or doesn't it seem to matter?

just so everyone knows..the regulator is not updated..it just had the part # updated...is the exact same regulator that came on the 08's as the 10's.....I too thought that it is an updated regulator..its not..thats right from a polaris engineer..and yes they do have a new update map coming..is supposed to deal with runability issues including the hesitation/stumble in the midrange, a less sensitive deto and a few other things......no release date yet....

suitcase · Dec 31, 2009

My wifes lost her's yesterday, my question is it ran fine for 2200 miles, then the update was put in and 140 miles later toast. Is this a problem with the new update and newer sleds or has this happened prior to update, 2010.

AKSNOWRIDER · Dec 31, 2009

suitcase69 said:
My wifes lost her's yesterday, my question is it ran fine for 2200 miles, then the update was put in and 140 miles later toast. Is this a problem with the new update and newer sleds or has this happened prior to update, 2010.

its been ongoing...has nothing to do with the update..there is a peice inside the regulator that suddenly fries..shorting/overvolting the VR and the ECM..taking them both out..a sure indicator is all of a sudden the lights are much briter..if you notice it..shut it off cool it off and head for the truck..its on its way to meltdown,,,,

skibreeze · Dec 31, 2009

AKSNOWRIDER said:
just so everyone knows..the regulator is not updated..it just had the part # updated...is the exact same regulator that came on the 08's as the 10's.....I too thought that it is an updated regulator..its not..thats right from a polaris engineer..and yes they do have a new update map coming..is supposed to deal with runability issues including the hesitation/stumble in the midrange, a less sensitive deto and a few other things......no release date yet....

Since you have an engineer connection, what's his take on the v.r. issues? What do they have planned?

AKSNOWRIDER · Jan 1, 2010

skibreeze said:
Since you have an engineer connection, what's his take on the v.r. issues? What do they have planned?

well ski breeze,I wish I had an answer..when I asked the mighty clam closed up....I had thought about replacing mine just to be safe...was told that more then likely mine is probably better then the replacement since it has 2600 miles on it without burning...wish I had more ....

turbogui · Jan 1, 2010

What we need is an overvoltage protection between regulator and PCM. It is not very complicated to do. We can put a relay that is cut wire to he pcm when voltage is higher than 15 volt. The component can work at 15V for some time.. higher it's dangerous.. When the Regulator or stator blow the engine will dies very quick saving the PCM.

protecting the ECU?

Well-known member

ACCOUNT CLOSED

Well-known member

Well-known member

Active member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

New member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

New member

Similar threads