we do have braces for the rear and center of the tunnel also
TUNNEL BRACING KIT FROM FTX... EASY INSTALL... BEST TO DO IT BEFORE YOU KINK A TUNNEL
- Thread starter mountainhorse
- Start date
we do have braces for the rear and center of the tunnel also
S
The way it was explained to me is the rear sections are for guys who are hard on things.... ME! Or who are running a coupled skid .... ME AGAIN!!!
Either way it's a lot cheaper than a new tunnel.
S
I would realy like to see some pics of those too!
Z
Any more info on kits for the guys with the assaults? I have a small maybe like 3/16 kink in mine on the clutch side.. The outer stock brace has a crack in and the brace on the inside of the tunnel off of the limiter strap mount has the small bend in it...
Anyone know if the van amburg kit is compatible with the assaults?
Thanks!
Anyone know if the van amburg kit is compatible with the assaults?
Thanks!
Z
Another pic
VE kit is compatible with the assaults.
For yours... i would get the full version that requires the chaincase to be pulled... remove the track/shaft/chaincase...Straighten everything out as best as possible and install that kit.
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For yours... i would get the full version that requires the chaincase to be pulled... remove the track/shaft/chaincase...Straighten everything out as best as possible and install that kit.
.
Z
Okay sounds good... Can anyone point me in the direction to the full van amburgent kit? I looked on their site but it's showing a few different ones...
Also does anyone know where there might be a how to or something like it for pulling the chain case? I have the skid out right now because I was doing some powder coating but have never really taken a sled apart before
Also does anyone know where there might be a how to or something like it for pulling the chain case? I have the skid out right now because I was doing some powder coating but have never really taken a sled apart before
Just got finished with the install of the FTX braces. I am really telling you it is about as easy as changing a spark plug. Took about 30 minutes total from start to clean up and ready to ride. Directions were great. Product was great. Thanks Fastrax.
ours is for preventative, so if you did not get the fastrax pro-tectors in time, then you will have to do the more labor intensive bigger plates from other companies
Regarding those mentioned "flat rivets" or CNC self piercing rivets: It appears that the programming between robots is a little different year to year. FTX had 10 pre-production pilot installs from customers across the country. Almost half of them were Michigan Tech engineers :face-icon-small-win and with all those installs and feedback FTX determined there were 4 variations from 2011-2014. Thus the funny shaped holes. After hundreds sold, no reported "massaging" was required. This whole process was required to achieve the "easy to install" target on the list of goals.
Yes, if you haven't kinked your tunnel yet I suggest the ftx plates. Again, for the cost and super simple install it is cheap insurance. The fit and finish is great. You won't be disappointed when you need them.
Just installed a set from Fastrax and a set from FNI-on 2 different sleds-
For the ease of install- yes fastrax is easier and suggested on non kinked tunnels- the Fire and Ice was more labor intensive and provides a broader coverage of the tunnel area.
Is all that needed? - It is a consumer decision- and a peice of mind-
The FNI was put on a a sled where drops come often for this rider- as to why we went this route-
All in all- Both work /
Cheap insurance for what seems it will happen not "If but When"
S/C
when you bend the tunnel it is a lot of work, I just repaired one and I had the sled stripped completely down to tunnel and bulkhead to repair
For the most durable bracing... The FNI, VOHK, VE etc PLUS...the FTX.
The FTX kit is unique in that it sandwiches all the parts together from inside and outside the tunnel and ties everything together very well.
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My install wasn't so easy...
I just finished my install, and it was easy until I got midway thru the chain case side......damn battery box is in the way for access to the chaincase carriage bolts. I didn't want to remove it.....so after some thinking..I was able to remove the 2 lower Torx support screws, and 2 10mm nuts on the battery box rear bracket to move the box approximately 1" forward. Also, had to remove the chaincase filler screw for socket clearance.
All in it took about an hour, including some troubleshooting time...lol!
Kit fit well, and everything lined up.
Hope this helps others who are installing the kit on sleds with electric start.
O
It's not a hard install, but adding Lords glue to the process makes it a bit trickier. I have installed several and would not install them without the glue, just extra strength IMHO.
Yes, I should have clarified it was on a NON-ES sled. Like above you will have the battery/battery box to contend with.
P
tunnel brace
thanks for the awesome information
thanks for the awesome information
electric start, it sure starts easier but makes a few things harder to work on
